Volvo - C70 :: 1998 Won't Come Out Of Park
Jun 19, 2012
I have a 1998 Volvo C70 convertible. about 2 weeks ago it started to stick in park. I can override it with shft override but that's not a long term fix. The button on the front-head of the shifter won't depress all the way and when its stuck in park the key won't come out of the ignition.
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I changed my rear brakes this past weekend and noticed that since then I have an odd sound when I drive off.
So I will park the car and engage the ebrake. I will then return to the car after a while (overnight etc) and disengage the ebrake, then put it in reverse / drive and when i give it gas to drive off, BAAAM - it sounds like you hit something or ran over something. I can stop the car fully and drive off - nothing. If I dont use the ebrake - nothing.
What in the world could this be??? It is quite loud and really scared that crap out of me - like you hit another car or something.
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Problem 1 started in winter of 2010 and happens randomly : can't shift the car from Park, I have to try several times, this occurs more during winter but now I'm having the same issue in summer even with temperatures above 78 degrees F. I took the car to the dealer in 2010 but nothing was wrong they said.Problem 2, my wife threw the original key in the dumpster by mistake ( with the remote keyless), I have had a key made buy the dealer, this key opens the doors and starts the car but each time I look the doors, the front passenger door unlocks itself. Now I'm having this message ALARM SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED. The alarm is no longer triggered.
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Our 98 Volvo S70's headlights have been very dim, only lighting about 5 feet infront of the car. It is almost the amount of light fog lights would put out - but the car doesn't have fog lights.
We first replaced the light bulbs with Sylvania Ultra Silverstar bulbs. Didn't make any difference. Then we took it to our local Volvo dealership and they told us we needed a new alternator. We had a new alternator installed, but no real change.
The lenses are glass and no real signs of fading or anything like that. I did notice some fading of reflective coating to the back of the headlight. Can this be repaired?
I have also read on blogs about replacing with "Jewel" headlights or "projector" headlights. I don't know anything about these. I want this car to be safe for my wife to drive.
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My 1998 Volvo S70 with 215,000 runs like a dream but it occasionally will not start. The starter sounds like it wants to turn the engine over and all of the electronics work when the key is turned. My mechanic has looked at everything and cannot figure it out. The car at times will not start and if it is left alone for a while it will then start. I have had it towed to his shop after not starting and once it arrived he had no problem starting it. What could be going on?
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I have a 1998 volvo s70 with 273k on it. I am pretty sure the head gasket is blown. The shop I usually take my car to said i need to take it to a dealer and that volvo usually wants to replace the engine on a car that old. Would you pay the 6k for a new engine or think about a new car?
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Could this be from bad gas? I put a bottle of Gum out fuel system cleaner in the tank was almost full and the directions say to put it in when almost empty and then fill for best results. My son bought gas at the same place I did and his car started having idle problems at about the same time my problems started (sometimes his engine races, sometimes normal, sometimes so slow it stalls out).
My car is a 98 Volvo S70
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I can not get my car out of park. I must replace a fuse every time . 1998 subaru forester . 241,000 miles
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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My 1988 Volvo 240 DL often has trouble starting in the rain (I've usually managed to get it going, but it often takes several attempts). I have been told by a friend that he had the same problem with his '86 and replaced the distributor cap, solving the issue. My mechanic told me that he would need to replace the cap and wires. He said that replacing the cap alone won't solve the problem, and would just lead the cap to wear out faster. He told me this without looking at the car. Just want to know if he's right--do I need to replace the cap and wires? Is it possible that changing the cap alone will solve the problem? Could I change the cap and see if there's still a problem, or is it better to just do it all at once?
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I have a 98 chevy truck and shortly after the mechanic put brakes on my truck, when I start it you cannot get it out of park. In fact sometimes when I can't get it out of park when I shut it off I have trouble removing the key from the ignition. I've found that when I want to start it I turn the key one notch put the truck in neutral and continue starting. At this point all works correct.
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I've a 1998 Kia Sephia with AT. It was hit by a tree when Irene hit and was sitting in my driveway for a month while I did some minor body repairs. Now I cant shift it out of Park! I took the console off to look at the shifter. The interlocks work (shifter button and break) but the cable that goes to the shift lever on the trans wont budge.
Is their something on the transmission that would prevent it from shifting? Or is the transmission itself frozen? Would changing AT fluid or an additive? The car is parked right in front of my garage (nose in), so I cant budge it or tow it!
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Got 98 PA with near 300k. A few months ago the rear passenger door would sometimes not unlock with either the switch or manual latch. Gradually got worse. Then the rear door lock on the drivers side did the same thing. Now I am stuck with both rear doors locked.
The electric switch does make a clicking sound at the door, but does not move the lock enough. I cannot force the manual latch back far enough to unlock the door. How to attack this problem and make it a 4 door car again?
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My 1998 Volvo V70R with only 53,000 miles (I'm the original owner) has picked up a problem. It started a year ago and seems to occur only when I do not let the car warm up for a few or several minutes: once I put the car into drive and start to move -- no matter how slowly -- a loud, high speed whirring sound begins. It will last for a minute or two and then stop. The speed of the whirring is constant and is not affected by how fast I drive or even if I come to a stop. It happens in both cold and hot temperatures. The whirring does not occur if I start the car and just let it idle and warm up. The loudness of the sound is such that it can be distracting to pedestrians 40 feet away. Changing the oil hasn't worked. More recently, the noise sometimes reoccurs in the middle of a drive. It always occurs when I start the car after it's been sitting for a few hours or more.
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My 98 PA ash tray doesn't stay up. I can't see what is wrong. I meet another PA owner that has the same thing. Is it in the dash, or is it in the door that flaps down? What do I need to do to fix it? What part can I get/do I need if I went to a wrecking yard?
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My 1998 Ford Explorer XLT v6 with about 233,000 miles on it has a bit of a problem. Infrequently, when I shift into reverse from park or neutral the engine dies. It restarts without issue. There are no strange noises or smells when this happens.
The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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It's a few times in the past 2 weeks, the shift lever won't come out of PARK easily. Sometimes I have to wiggle the shifter for quite awhile before I can get the shifter to shift out of PARK. It also doesn't start when that happens, like everything works but it doesn't start. It's like it's locked. It finally lets go and I can start it and put it in Drive and Reverse and go on my way. But there's not set thing that I can do to make it work.
It's just luckily let me go the few times it's happened. We replaced the shift cable about 1.5-2 years ago and of course the cable is out of warranty. But even if it's the cable, it's definitely going into park because you can hear the click when you stop the truck and turn it off, and throw it into PARK. But when the shift get's stuck it won't crank or make any kind of cranking noise, it's like the battery is dead but it isn't. When it happens you can't even shift it out of PARK to try and start it in D or R.
So I was thinking something could be going on with the NSS. Is there any kind of brake pedal interlock switch on a 98 Ranger? I notice when I start it and press the brake pedal it clicks loud under the dash, which I don't remember hearing always. But maybe it always makes that click when you hit the pedal because I usually always have the radio on. What I can do if the shift gets stuck when I go to leave work? What do I need to look at to determine the problem?
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