Volvo :: 960 Won't Start And No Spark


Mar 12, 2013

I have a 95-960 [straight 6] that doesn't want to start!

I parked the car roughly 8 weeks ago, yesterday I went to start it! ..firstly the battery had gone flat, No big problem, the battery is only about 6months old so I whipped out the car starter battery pack thingy [as I Have done in the past after a long time parked] but to my dismay it didn't kick! firstly i was concerned that the fuel pump may have *** it's self, so I cracked the fuel line at the engine and turned the ignition on!..plenty of fuel!Next I take one of the coil packs out and turn it over again...NO SPARK!..I only just parked it here a couple of month ago and it was fine..

the car normally runs faultlessly and has never not started in the past, it has all new timing belt and tensioner fitted a couple of thousand k's ago, new battery, plenty of fuel, and less than 200,000kms on the clock..

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Volvo :: 1990 740 Getting Good Spark But Will Not Start

My 1990 740 will not start. These are the tests I have completed:

Starter and battery are in good condition.
The fuel pump works, it delivers fuel pressure on initial starting.
The plugs are new and gaped correctly.
I am getting a good spark at all plugs.
I have tested for power at the cold start valve. It is connected to the top of the starter and is at 9 volts while starting the engine.
The timing belt is new and is operating correctly. The engine is timed correctly.

I have noticed that there is no fuel getting to the plugs. I pulled one and it is dry.

The code is 3-2-1. Cold Start valve? It is 75 degrees.....the car should start?

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I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.

Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.

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I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .

Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.

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Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.

Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.

Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.

Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark

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Freshly rebuilt 2.8 V6

Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.

The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.

I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.

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When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)

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The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.

After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?

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