Volvo :: 960 Won't Start And No Spark
Mar 12, 2013
I have a 95-960 [straight 6] that doesn't want to start!
I parked the car roughly 8 weeks ago, yesterday I went to start it! ..firstly the battery had gone flat, No big problem, the battery is only about 6months old so I whipped out the car starter battery pack thingy [as I Have done in the past after a long time parked] but to my dismay it didn't kick! firstly i was concerned that the fuel pump may have *** it's self, so I cracked the fuel line at the engine and turned the ignition on!..plenty of fuel!Next I take one of the coil packs out and turn it over again...NO SPARK!..I only just parked it here a couple of month ago and it was fine..
the car normally runs faultlessly and has never not started in the past, it has all new timing belt and tensioner fitted a couple of thousand k's ago, new battery, plenty of fuel, and less than 200,000kms on the clock..
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My 1990 740 will not start. These are the tests I have completed:
Starter and battery are in good condition.
The fuel pump works, it delivers fuel pressure on initial starting.
The plugs are new and gaped correctly.
I am getting a good spark at all plugs.
I have tested for power at the cold start valve. It is connected to the top of the starter and is at 9 volts while starting the engine.
The timing belt is new and is operating correctly. The engine is timed correctly.
I have noticed that there is no fuel getting to the plugs. I pulled one and it is dry.
The code is 3-2-1. Cold Start valve? It is 75 degrees.....the car should start?
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OK, so I have a friend with a '89 Volvo 240 which has trouble starting. He usually can get it started by cranking and pumping the gas pedal furiously. This usually gets the car started quickly, although today it barely sputters (seems to want to start after lots of manic foot pumping, but ultimately fails).
I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.
Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.
Another problem he reports is that after driving a long distance (more than a few blocks) the starter won't run unless the engine sits for at least 30 minutes.
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My son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
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I have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
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Motor seems to burn out spark plugs every month. I was using non volvo sparks. I took car to Volvo dealers and repairers who gave car a diagnostic check but nothing showed up. They told me to use Original Volvo Spark Plugs which I did. The Car went great with no problems for about 3 months thinking problem was fixed. Low and behold the same problem came back.
I changed spark plugs again (original Volvo) and car only ran for 10 ks and then ran very very rough with no power. Motor felt like it was running on a few cylinders. It seem this problem happens mostly in hot weather. Motor also heats up but when cooled down runs well again. I intend to buy new rotor Bosch and Distributer cap and if needed coil.
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Was running with a slight miss until reach 30 mph for about 5 days now this morning, turning over and over but won't start..checked 2 plug wires no spark to ground..how to fix and make start?
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Own an 89 camaro, has a 350. I am getting spark my plugs are new.. fuel pump is replaced but when i turn it over I am only getting drips from the injectors into the carb. So I'd think they were clogged. When i get it started with a little gas to the carb they spray fine though? So when its running they are spraying like they're supposed to but when I am trying to start they wont spray, just drip..
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I have a 2000 Olds Alero that will not start. Has spark, Fuel pressure is 55 and holds steady. Compression is low on some cylinders. It is a 3400 6 cyl. I changed the crank sensor, balancer, cam sensor, plugs, plug wires, and ignition module and coil packs.
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I am working on a 2001 durango 4.7 that will not start I guess it was running bad one day on his way home but he made it home. He noticed two vacuum lines looked really cracked so he replaced them still was not any better. He said you could hear a slaping noise on the passanger side front of the motor for about 2 years. I figure that was the slack in the timing chain. Then it sat for a couple days and know it will not even start I scanned it and showed bad cam sensor PO340 code. So I replaced it and decided to pull a plug and coil and stuck the plug in the end of the coil and held the coil so the plug thread was up against a bolt and cranked and have no spark. So I went and picked up a crank sensor and replaced the old one. Still no start and no spark testing it the way I mentioned above. What to try know not very familiar with these 4.7 and dodge for that matter.
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My 97 toyota tacoma will not start. have fuel, changed plugs, has spark. still will not start.
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i have a 1991 s10 2.5 liter that will not start. i have spark, and fuel to the injector but nothing from the injector. how do i determine if the injector is bad or something is not telling it to spray?
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Why my '01 Passport will not start? Was driving down the road and it just shut down on me. It cranks but will not fire. Replaced timing belt, fuel pump, and now ECM still not luck. I know it's getting fuel to the rail but no spark!
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I have a friends 91 GTO in my garage and it will not start, it seems to be getting fuel because it smells pretty strong but I know it isn't getting spark, and everything on this car is in Japanese, I cant even figure out what fuses to check or anything...
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This has the 2.2 engine with the ignition coil mounted on the firewall, not inside the distributor.
Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.
Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.
Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.
Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark
Replace ignition coil and ignitor - no spark
The wires all test with the right ohms so I'm not sure what is left to replace.
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After replacing the intake manifold gasket for the second time, the truck would not start. Thought for sure it was my putting the distributor in wrong. After reviewing the forums, I am sure it is installed correctly. I have spark but no start. Engine cranks over nicely, but acts like it needs fuel. I hooked up a fuel gauge, turned on the key and get 56PSI. Lower than the 60 required. The pressure then slowly goes to 50 PSI. I pinched off the return hose and had the same readings. Pretty sure I need to replace the fuel pump. Is there anything else I need to check. I replaced the fuel pump a couple years ago with a Delphi unit. Maybe this is just a weak link for these trucks. My truck has a little over 100,000 miles on it.
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I have a perplexing problem and I'm at wits end trying to figure it out. I have an 03 GTI 1.8t 20th. The car has been running great until today when I replaced a few bolts with the front bumper and replaced a motor mount bolt on the passenger side mount. Everything was great until I did the work on it. I figured I had bumped the cam position sensor so I swapped it out for a new one and nothing still. I have verified I have spark and I definitely have fuel as it keeps drenching the spark plugs. I have cleaned the spark plugs and tried starting only for the car to violently sputter and misfire. No codes are being recorded and nothing else has been touched.
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1987 Toyota Celica GTS 2.0 manual Transmission The Problem ... The power cable to alternator sparked on the side of the engine when I was connecting it. I did not think the battery cable was connected at the time but it was.. Now I have NO SPARK I have changed all the fuses at the battery could not find any that were blown but still changed them and checked all the fuses under kick panels none were blown. What should I look for now?
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2.4L. Starter cranks but engine doesn't start. Per other forums I have changed the crank sensor and cam sensor, spark plugs. No change. I went back and did Volt meter test on the new sensors: Crank sensor showed 13 volt on red wire, 0 and 5 volt while cranking on blue wire. Cam sensor had 13 volt on red wire and 13 volt on signal wire while cranking. Was expecting alternating 0-5 volt. Could I have a bad ECM?
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So it finally happened...One day she was working just fine and now is dead. OK, starter is working, battery is new but there's absolutely no spark on any of the spark plugs. I wonder what could it be ?
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Freshly rebuilt 2.8 V6
Car turns over but is not getting spark or fuel. The timing is good (checked multiple times, and I have done numerous TBs on these engines). Compression is good.
The car has sat for ~2 months. It broke the timing belt (and bent or broke multiple valves), so I know it had both spark and fuel before this.
I have gone through and double checked every connection and everything is connected and seated properly. I used a stethoscope to listen to the injectors and there is no click during cranking, and using an extra plug I checked spark and there is none. I also hooked up my inductive timing light and it doesn't sense a spark.
I have VAG-COM and there are no fault codes. I have checked all fuses and they are good. If I do the tests on VAG-COM I can make the injectors cycle, but they don't cycle when cranking. I tested the crank position sensor (and tried a new one) and it tested good (and the new one made no difference). Using VAG-COM, I confirmed that it does sense the engine RPM when cranking. The battery voltage stays above 12V during cranking as well.
A couple other tidbits of info:
The fuel pump does work (and comes on when cranking... confirmed by disconnecting the hose and pumping fuel into a can)
When cranking for a few seconds, the display says STOP and flashes the oil light (I'm assuming because it is cranking at such low RPM)
The Check engine light and EPC light come on when the key is put in the on position and turn off during cranking (like they should)
The immobilizer light comes on for a few seconds as well, but it doesn't flash like it would if it was immobilizing the engine.
After looking at wiring diagrams, it appears that the ignition coils and the fuel injectors both run off of the same relay, but I am unsure which one or even if I am right about that. But assuming I am correct about that, wouldn't the injectors not fire during the test if that was bad?
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