Resurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
View 3 RepliesMy car recently turned over 120,000 miles. I have owned her for 5 years. Currently, the engine temperature gauge needle is moving all over the place. It typically registers the correct temperature (I think), but sometimes it goes all the way over to the red, then peaks and falls back down to the midline.
Before this started happening, the needle would lie just below the midline when traveling on the highway and just above the midline when driving in town. Yesterday, it was lying between the 1/4 mark and the midline -- much lower than normal. Is this as simple as just replacing the temperature sensor?
My mechanic noticed a month ago that the transmission hoses are all swollen and in need of replacement. Is this related?One more thing, within the last week, the electrical system fails while driving, but just for a second. I can tell because the radio goes out. Once, it went completely dead, then came back on within 2 seconds. It made me think of the alternator, but it seems if that were the case it would go dead and not come back on, no?
This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
My 1991 Nissan 240SX (only 85K miles!) has an intermittent overheating problem that began last November. Needle usually right in middle, but occasionally would quickly rise to danger zone. In Nov., I got new radiator and pump, as well as all new spark plugs. Was OK for about 3 months, then started overheating occasionally. In shop a day and a half while they tried to find the cause. Gave me a new thermostat. Then test showed there was a leak in head gasket. Instead of expensive repairs, I put 8-oz bottle of K-Seal in cooling system. Reviews all over the web gave me confidence it would seal all leaks. But within 5 minutes, it overheated. Tried again later, same result.
View 2 RepliesI recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
Ok I was driving home right know from work, and looking at the speedometer, i notice that my temperature gauge turns off (the needle goes all the way down). what can it be?
View 2 RepliesThe needle is moving up and then back down. This mostly happens while at a stop and simultaneously the ac compressor kicks off.
Recently new radiator and temp gauge, plus coolant flush.
Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
The needle has always stuck dead on 190f when it gets up to temp. About a week ago I took the center grill of to paint, I put it back on and the check engine light came on ... code p2433 secondary air pump problem. I figured I had just disturbed something etc. Now the coolant gauge is going up to around 240f during normal driving, the fan stays on for about a minute when I turn off the ignition.
View 16 RepliesThe needle in temp gage on my 2005 Toyota is now facing the opposite direction. This happened right after the most recent oil change. Is this a gauge or a sending unit problem?
View 11 RepliesHave 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
View 2 RepliesIt stop working for a while but i want it to work now. The needle is frozen in the middle and wont move for shizz. Is it something electrical or should i buy a new gauge? I found some gauges for the 740 so I thought to ask first before buying it.
View 3 RepliesThe temperature gauge in my 2006 S60 2.5 T suddenly stopped working and I noticed that the cooling fan was stuck on relatively cool Michigan weather. In addition I also noticed a 2-3 mpg reduction in average fuel economy and a reduction in overall power. I did a little research and found that the 2006 2.5T models had an ECT recall. Turns out the ECM was telling the engine to operate at overheating conditions,due to a faulty ECT.
Picked up a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (OEM is recommended by most authorities for replacement sensors). I replaced the ECT without even removing the engine cover, it didn't fix the problem at first. Then I pulled the fuse for the ECM, a 5 amp fuse in the box mounted on the drives side fender, and let the ECM reset for a few minutes. Then, had the temp gauge back, and had peak engine performance at operating temperature.
I have a 98 cavelier 2.4L..When engine is cold and the colder the outside temp is, the engine runs great with lots of power. but as temperatures rise, there is a huge loss in power. It feels like the computer is retarding the timing. Is there an outside air temp sensor to close to the rad??
View 2 RepliesAs if puttin on all new 4 tires and having to buy a new wheel because one was cracked didn't cost me enough. Car was idling for a good 30minutes or more (arguing with the gf) and out of no where I noticed the exhaust note change and the temperature rise. I shut if off before it even reached the red mark. Yes I checked the cooling fan and its working when the engine is warmed up. Was it possible some wires may have come loose from hitting a pot hole ( main roads) and it caused it to overheat? Car is running fine and I will get it in the shop next week to have it looked at
Could it have caused any damage to the engine even though I was able to stop it quick and let it cool down?
I have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
I have a 2002 jetta 1.8t that overheated on me out of no where i have read some post and couldn't really find what i need it never overheated on me before and this was the first time and when ever i open the reservoir where you put in coolant everything spills out its my first time owning a volkswagen, it happens as soon as i start driving like 30 secs and temperature starts to rise.
View 3 RepliesRecently (3 months ago) I had the timing belt, thermostat , water pump changed . Just yesterday I noticed that the engine temperature gauge was all the way to the left and did not seem to be functioning. I do not know if it had been like this for the 3 months since the maintenance work....maybe not. But, the guage is not working.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2012 Passat 2.0 TDI (140) DSG
Sometimes the engine temperature stays low for an entire drive. Regardless of speed - it has happened while sitting in traffic for hours or while sitting at 70mph.
When this is happening, the engine temperature gauge will go up and down, but never reach 90, and the oil temperature reading fluctuates from around 60 to 80. Also the air into the car doesn't get hot enough, but now we're out of winter that doesn't matter too much.
But then other days it will be 100% fine - it rises up to 90 within 10 minutes of a cold start and stays there the whole day - and the oil temperature sits between 90 and 100.
I've taken it to a couple of VW dealers but obviously it behaves perfectly on those days! I remember reading something about a thermostat that circulates coolant to the DSG box, which can cause these kinds of symptoms?
My 1989 740 Turbo wagon cuts out while I'm driving. It only ever does it at about the point when the engine first reaches its normal operating temperature. It can cut out while idling or when driving at normal speed. I'm not sure if it's related to temperature or time (it usually cuts out at about the 5-8 minute mark), or if this is simply coincidental. It does it nearly every day.
It's definitely caused by the fuel pump relay cutting out. I've replaced this already, with no improvement. Something is causing the relay to suddenly lose an input.
Once cut, it takes a few quick flicks of the key to the START position for the fuel pump relay to receive power again. It will then drive faultlessly for the rest of the day. Although, if allowed to sit and cool for many hours, it will sometimes do this again.