Volvo :: 940 GLE Stalling Randomly While Driving Then Starts Up Again
Dec 6, 2012
I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) Car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.
Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)
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My ex drives our kid around Maui in a 1990 740 GLE (non turbo) and it's been stalling at the most inconvenient places and not starting for say, 20-30 minutes (then it seems to run fine, at least for another 15-20min. Our savant mechanic with an inherent drive to sleuth out problems is stumped as to why this intermittent stalling is going on. This seems to be happening when it is warmed up, first did it the after "acting funny" in 4th of July bumper to bumper traffic over in Lahaina, when it got to it's destination, it crapped out in the driveway.
Then, it stalled coming home the next day (fortunately right by beach park), a hot day, so I went out to get here a tow. Got rope on, it starts! Take rope off, realize I killed my battery in my Subie Outback while I was fiddling around with the 740, so she pulls it around to jump the Subaru, and it craps out again. So, we get someone else to jump Subie, I turn around to tow her and we go about a mile, tow rope snaps after crest of hill, but, 740 starts up and makes it back to Pa'ia (about 12 miles from that point).
Next day, mechanic looks at it, starts fine. No problem is reproduced, so hard to diagnose. Tonight, it stalled out again and started right back up a couple times during the day, then really stalled out turning onto the busy Hana Hwy from Baldwin Beach, thought I was going to tow her again, but 20 min later, it starts back up. So, for the second night in a row, I follow her home, but tonight it stalls out when making tight turn uphill to get to her neighborhood. So, I manage to tow her up and over to her place. (Accidentally took off front bumper when hook slipped, but I got it back on). And, of course, it starts right up.
Some background:
-fuel pump relay has been tested and is working.
-a couple weeks ago two of the injectors were replaced (or fixed, not sure) after we thought it was really going south (oil in plug cylinder, power loss).
-spark plugs replaced at same time injector issue was being assessed.
-fuel pump and filter underneath were replaced last year. (could it be other fuel pump inside tank?)
Every time I turn around this thing is stalling!
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I have a 99 jeep grand jerokee... every once in a while it will just stall....it starts back up right away...no problem....battery is good... could it be the fuel filter? or the cranckshaft positioning sensor? or am i way off?
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 auto trans and the past few days the truck has been stalling randomly while driving and some times not restarting right away. Now today it stalled a few times. once while driving, once when i sitting in it trying to load up obd2 scanner. I got it home and it started running rough for 2 mins then it would stall out. It did that 3 or 4 times and now it stalled while sitting in drive way and wont start at all. it wont crank. no fuel pump noise any more.
The odometer goes out and just has a bunch of flat lines. I can not get scanner to connect anymore. it never had any codes before when it was stalling. When I could get scanner to work it had 42psi of fuel pressure. battery and starter are good. all the fuses are good and I can hear the pcm relay clicking when I turn the key and swapping relays does nothing. I can hear a very rapid clicking noise from the throttle body area. What that could be? is the pcm fried? what would cause it to fry? how can i test pcm? if get used pcm does dealer have to program it?
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I have been having intermittent issues with the driver's side headlight. It will randomly fail for no reason while driving. This can often be remedied by turning the lights off and then back on again. The headlight will also fail not-so-randomly. Two triggers are driving on a bumpy road (we never get potholes in the winter in Ohio), and - here could be the clue to the problem - when I make sharp left-hand turns (90 degrees). What could cause the headlight to fail by making a left turn? The ballast has already been replaced once under warranty (which has since lapsed), and the dealer has wanted to replace the bulb since the xenon bulbs are quite expensive, and may not actually be the cause of the problem.
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While driving in the rain, AC in auto blowing cold air, hot air starts blowing. Cannot shut off blower (now on high), blowing very hot air. Radio control knobs stop working. In fact entire center control panel ceases to work. Shut the car off for 15 minutes and everything works fine. After the first time, car ran fine fine for 90 days before it did it a second time. Mechanic could not duplicate and reloaded software. May not know if car is fixed for months?
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So my car just started randomly dying everytime i came to a stop. Just shudders and off and then when i go to restart it cranks no problem but will not start. If i just wait for about 5 minutes it will start right up again but then die on the next few stops. A few hours later i go try again and i get it home no problem but still kept the rpms up when i wasnt moving. Filled up with 93 and put some gas treatment and it seems to be fine. What can it be? just bad gas or water in it? or could it be battery, alternator or clutch?
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I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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So, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
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I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
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Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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We own a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. Occasionally, when my daughter is driving at very low speeds, such as braking when approaching a stop sign or stop light, or when she is accelerating from a stop, the engine shuts off, forcing her to stop the vehicle, put the car in park, and restart the engine. Fortunately, the engine always restarts. Unfortunately, however, the problem only occurs intermittently. It may happen twice within an hour, and then not again for two or three weeks. As a result, the problem has not been duplicated by the dealer or any other repair shop. And, when plugged into the computer, none of the codes show up. So far the dealer has removed carbon from the throttle valve control unit and replaced the alternator. But the problem continues. Not sure what do to next as the dealer says he is baffled.
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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I have a 1997 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 6 cylinder with 188,000 miles. I love my car, it's treated me well over the years. About 2 months ago it started stalling at stop lights, etc. Basically, any time I came to a stop and it was idling while in gear. I start it right back up and when my foot's on the gas, it doesn't stall. After 10 times or so I learned that if I took it out of gear the RPMs went up a little and it didn't stall. About 2 weeks later the "check engine" like went on so I figured, now it's time to take it somewhere. So I took it to a mechanic that I've been to before and trusted (here in San Francisco) and he said, "oh.. it's probably just an idle adjustment" so I think, great, no big deal.
After a few days he said wasn't the idle and that after testing he found that all 6 cylinders were randomly misfiring. So he needed to change the spark plugs cause they were down to a bare nub. I figured, ok, it's about time anyway. He said it could also be the ignitor?, he didn't sound 100% positive, but told me there's probably something wrong with it since it's pretty old too and that's all he could think of. So he changed all 6 spark plugs and the ingintor and the engine light was still on. It was stalling less frequently, but still randomly stalling.
He then said he was going to have his Toyota specialist friend look at it. His friend couldn't figure out what was wrong either. Then he sent to to the Toyota dealer, they checked everything they could think of, but couldn't diagnose the real cause either. Apparently they even checked the "Dynamic Balancer"? I'm not even sure my car has one of those. They might as well have told me it needed a new agonculator (totally made up word) for all I knew. So they had my car for 3 weeks and finally I said, enough is enough, these guys can't figure it out. After 3 weeks of hearing how much money they spent on other people to figure out it, I finally said, let's stop the bleeding. The car still runs and doesn't stall that much. The last thing they tried was 2 series of a fuel injection flush (decarbonize)? So they did that with not a whole lot of improvement. They also managed to run all the gas out of my car and by the time I picked it up, the fuel light was on and I took it immediately to a gas station. No joke, they burned about 1/2 tank of gas and didn't refill it.
After 3 weeks and $1000, they come up with "we don't know what's wrong, but use Premium gas and it might fix itself". In the end they told me they were down to only one misfire, cylider #4. Also, the "check engine" light is still on. Since I've gotten it back it hasn't stalled, so there's an improvement. But I'm no closer to figuring out what's wrong that's keeping the check engine light on. Needless to say, I'm not taking it back to these guys.
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