Volvo - 940 :: Coolant Leak Near Firewall
Jul 7, 2014
Back again, with the 1994-ish Volvo 940 with many miles on it.
Symptoms reported by son: coolant leak near firewall (radiator hoses replaced a few weeks ago); maybe some pressure in cooling system; some oily stuff in the coolant in the radiator.
Shop's diagnosis: transmission cooler leaking. (Well at least it's not the head gasket!)
Recommend : Replace radiator, cap (sure), thermostat (all right, but we get rid of this car in six weeks), and ... flush the transmission (alarm!).
Usual advice is drain and refill tranny, rather than flush. However, seems to me that with high risk of coolant in trans fluid, flush is the right action.
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I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo 850 and a week ago it began leaking coolant. Currently I am having to refill the coolant every three days.
I have attached two pics. One is a pic of where the coolant pools and the other is a pic of where I am pretty sure the coolant is leaking.
The leak appears to be coming from the connection point at the top driver side of the radiator. I know there is a hose on the same side at the bottom of the radiator directly below the one in the picture. At first I thought that was the source of the leak but later found it was just run off from the leak above.
Does this a common and fixable leak? Or if it is likely an expensive fix? Any other troubleshooting I can do on my end or do I need to take it to a dealer to find out what is going on?
Radiator_Leak.jpg ( 765.54K )
Leak.jpg ( 1.3MB )
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What are my options here.. One tech said he can pull it down and weld on new flex pipes..
any advice with do.. CEL is on and B1 S1 is popping up. if you lift the hood you can hear the leak in front of the firewall.. and smell it.. ???
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Trying to get the a/c working on the EX. Tried to pull a vacuum and heard a leak coming from near the firewall. After a closer look I could see the larger line was rubbing against the rear head stud. That line is a hard to remove and replace. So if you have a studded 6.0, take time to look at your lines to make sure they have proper clearance.
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My 2001 Santa Fe had a slow PS leak for over a year which I dealt with just by adding fluid several times a year. Then I let the car sit for a few months while I saved up for input/output sensors. I just replaced those and discovered that the PS leak is noticeably worse.
I searched the forums and found that the most common problem is a clogged reservoir screen, resulting in fluid backup that sprays the engine bay. I don't think that's the problem. The engine bay is dry and both reservoir hoses are dry. The spot where I've found the most wetness is closer to the firewall and much lower than the reservoir but I need identifying it.
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I'm trying to figure out a small leak on my mothers' Santa Fe. Recently I smelled coolant after my mother had gone for a long drive. I checked the Radiator and overflow... need maybe 1 qt of coolant.
Now I'm trying to find the cause of the missing coolant ! While it's running, I see no leak. Shut it off and it starts to drip from a small plastic tube on the firewall inside the engine bay area (on the passenger side). It drips down onto a rubber boot covering some steering stuff. Is this from the heater core?
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So the wife's 08 Mountaineer 4.6 likes coolant. None in the crank case. I suspect head gasket, since I can smell it a bit in the exhaust, but I have also noticed steam coming from the drivers side firewall area, but can't see anything. If it is head gaskets, am I pulling the engine? If I have to pull the engine.
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My boyfriend has a Volvo with 100,000+ miles, not exactly sure what year, but he recently found out the Gas Tank has a leak- ON TOP of the tank. We scratched our heads and tried to figure out how this happened. How did this happen? He does normal city driving, hasn't have an accident or bump into anything. He took it into the mechanics and they said it would be around 3000 repair/replace. How the tank got a leak on the top?
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Lost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.
Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.
I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.
Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?
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I have a 2001 Volvo V70. Yesterday I noticed that the low coolant light came on when I tried to start the car, but it went off after a minute or two. I kept an eye on the temperature gauge and didn't see anything amiss. When my wife tried to start the car this morning, the low coolant light came on again, but the car wouldn't start -- it turns over but sputters out after a second or two. I checked the coolant and it was indeed pretty low (should have done it the night before, I realize). So, I'm trying to figure out what's up here -- the car didn't seem to generally overheat, but something has gone wrong. Fuel pump or something similar?
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I'm the guy with the XC90 in Gabon. Someone brought me some power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil,......but I forgot to ask for radiator fluid....crap!
Today I got the red triangle and low coolant warning...topping it off with water made it go away, but I need some fluid. I can't get Pentosin radiator fluid here. Is there another kind of radiator fluid I can put in the car that will mix with the existing stuff? If I just get ethylene glycol base will that work?
Or....If I drain it all,out and start over from scratch...does it matter what kind of fluid I put in?
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My elderly mother brought a used 2006 Volvo SR60, in 2008. Later she discovered that the radiator light/coolant would blink on in the car. The Coolant was low. She took the car to To Mckevitt Volvo here in the Bay Area. The car was under warranty. McKevitt replaced the radiator
Apparently she kept having problems with the coolant system in the car. She took the car to another car repair place (Ackerman) and they detected a tiny crack in the radiator, but they said it wasn't enough of a leak to cause the leak. Then they suggested replacing the thermostat of the car. Apparently, this is a real costly procedure costing hundreds of dollars. She opted not to do this..
Recently she took the car back to McKevitt Volvo, still because of the coolant problems, the car is no longer under warranty,, Mckevitt held the car for a couple of days, after an inspection for leaks, they told her they could not find any leak, although they cleaned up the car, and didn't charge her for their services.
So now she's paying on a newer model car, , that leaks coolant, but no one knows where....
Does she still have any recourse, what should she do? She's an older person in her 60's so she needs her car and doesn't need a blown head gasket. I suggested, trying one of those "over_the_counter_" radiator, coolant system seal, to stop any leak, are these safe to use?
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Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
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I have a '98 Volvo V70 that has a slow leak in the cooling system. I have brought it to my indie Volvo mechanic several times and they keep trying new things - they've replaced the thermostat, all the hoses, overflow tank, and this last time used Stop Leak in case I have a bad head gasket. I'm 4 visits and $1600 into this repair, and it's still leaking. Now they're saying it must be the head gasket and it will be $3000 to fix. What do I do???? How do I know it will fix the car and when do I ask for my money back? When do guarantees come into play? Is the car worth it? It's worth nothing with a leak, so I'm stuck in this corner.
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Could there be other culprits besides the engine block being cracked? I have been looking at some forums and see that PCV lines can get clogged, leading to an increase in pressure. Others mention the oil trap being plugged, and others mention a link between the cooling system and the oil line. The leak appears to be unrelated to the turbo, as that is dry, and is coming from the engine, but high enough that the mechanic can't see it without taking the axle off. What might make this problem occur besides a cracked engine block?
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Last August, with about 76,000 miles on it, the oil light on my xc70 came on when I was making a U-turn. I took the car into the dealer and was told it was down almost 4 quarts. The “cause” was the breather box which was replaced for a substantial amount of money. About 5k miles later the same thing happened. Again I was down over 3 quarts but the breather box was fine. There is no leak and absolutely no indication that oil is burning (no smoke, smell, residue in the tailpipe).
The speculation was that that the oil was somehow vaporizing in a line between the pan and the block. I didn’t buy that.Now after three more visits; I have been bringing the car in every 1k for an oil change and consumption check (the dealer has absorbed this cost) they have determined it is losing about ½ quart every 1k miles. They have not identified why. All they say is that I can rebuild the engine (new rings and pistons). This is ridiculous! 85k on the car and it needs a new engine. This was a certified pre-owned Volvo with 11k when I bought it and all service has been done by the dealer.
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I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
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I have just noticed a small wet 'green' looking patch on my carpet in the passenger footwell by the centre console.
Having taken the trim off from under the glove box and the trim on the console there're are some green stains coming down the side of what I believe is the heater matrix.
It would appear to originate near where the two pipes go into the unit. Are there any '0'rings on these pipes and could they be the source of the problem?
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1999 Volvo V70 XC. The car is a 5 cylinder turbo charged w/automatic transmission. I removed the plastic panels from the top of the valve cover to discover oil puddled on top of the valve cover. Not sure if it is the fill cap leaking or something more serious. I noticed a rubber tube that I assume is part of the PCV system could this be the source? Also, the car uses oil between oil changes. The manual says to use 5W30 weight oil, but most of the European cars I've owned use 20W50 due to the high compression and torque. I'm wondering if 20W50 might reduce oil burning.
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99 Intrigue with 3.5 has slow coolant leak at crossover. Would like advice on use of a coolant system sealer and what specific sealer to use. Car has 215XXX miles on it and otherwise no problems.
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