Volvo - 850 :: 1997 - Intermittent Engine Died When Turn Over / Start
Jan 5, 2016
I have a 97 Volvo 850. A couple weeks ago, it stalled a half dozen times while starting. The engine would turn over, start, run for a few seconds, then stall. Before calling for a tow truck, I started it up again, and it ran. After idling for a few minutes, it appeared to run smoothly. We drove home without a problem. When I took it into the shop, of course it wasn't acting up. A little later, the technician called to say it acting up for him so he knew I wasn't going crazy. He took it back to the shop, and it acted up again for another tech. They have since put their instruments on the car but it refuses to tell them anything. The check engine light works. All pressures are to spec. The fuel filter has been checked as well as all fuel lines. The car has not acted up now for over a week. The shop still can't find the problem.
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I have an '89 740 wagon, Bosch ignition. It will not start. If I spray starter fluid, it will fire, then immediately die. I have replaced already both fuel pumps, noise suppressor/fuel injector relay, fuel pump relays.
I installed a fuse in the fuse box, which was empty when I purchased the car. And the engine instantly died. It did start up when the fuse was removed, and I drove it back across country. The idle got worse until it died and would not start back home.
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1997 Volvo 850 Engine Problem? My customer question is, during the times my customer drive, When my customer start the car & when my customer put it on drive, the engine shuts off. My customer was wondering what was the issue of the problem , ALLDATA 10.53 & what's causing it to happen.
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I own a 2004 F-250 Super Duty V10 truck. It's always ran and started great. I don't use it often so I make it a point to start and drive it around town twice a week. The other morning I went to start it and nothing. Engine will not turn over. Tried cranking with head lights on and they stay bright. It's an automatic and I tried going between park and neutral and still nothing. I can hear the little square relays in the fuse box clicking. Could the starter just have died? How are they to replace on these?
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95 850 died on the highway - now it cranks and won't start. I had it towed to a mechanic who later told me he didn't work on Volvos. He did however check for spark - good. Timing belt- good. I replaced fuel pump and relay - no go. One possible hint is the lights on the Sport/Econ switch no longer light up and the first light I saw when it died was the up arrow light on the dash. Last winter I cleaned and regreased the PNP switch. Would that have anything to do with it?.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I have an automatic 2000 Volvo S70 with 202,000 miles. Over the past couple years, I've had an intermittent start problem that seems to only occur after a medium duration shutdown (15min-3hours) following a long duration of operation (about 2 hours or more, usually highway). When the problem occurs, all the lights on the dashboard light-up like everything is normal, but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens - silence, the car makes no attempt to start. Usually, I'll wait anywhere from 3 minutes to an hour or more and it'll start with no problem, like there was never a problem in the first place.
It seems to happen more frequently when it's hot outside, but it's hard to say for sure. And it seems to be random, within the parameters previously described; example: it happened twice on my recent drive to vacation, but not at all on the return trip home. Both days were hot, and all stops followed a similar pattern of operation/shutdown. And it never happens after a short stop following long operation; I've never been stuck in front of a gas pump. And I can run errands all day long, stop a dozen times in the blazing heat, and she'll start every time without a problem. It never happens first thing in the morning, and it never happens after I've been at work all day (even if the car has been parked in the sun all day).
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Started my 2005 f250 powerstroke, idle about 15 min and died like I turned key off. Hooked up scan guage had no flp, fmp or syc ipr and icp was good. Checked ficm relay and fuses and all checked good. Next morning went out and it started flp, fmp, sycall good. Idled about 1 hr and died again same bad readings. Messed with relays and wiring to ficm, it started and died after 2 min. No start again, next morning still no flp, fmp. Went out again in afternoon and everything was good again, I did nothing to it from am to pm, was loading my pistol they shoot horses don't they. I have new batterys, I changed the ficm power card last summer for low fmp. When it is running everything looks and sounds good no miss.
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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I took my 2011 c30 in for its 30000 mile routine service to a local Volvo dealer service dept in Sept 2014 and ever since I am hearing an intermittent clank after starting the engine. I also hear the noise while driving (it eventually stops after a while) and for about 10 minutes after shutting the engine down. The time between clanks is about 20 - 30 seconds. It is a single clank sound (like metal hitting metal). The car operates fine and no warning messages.
I took it back to the Volvo dealer service dept and after 2 days they were perplexed, and asked me to bring it back the following week when their Master mechanic was in-house, which I did.
They had the car for 5 more days and never could diagnose the issue and were told by Volvo HQ to give the car back to me. The service dept told me they sent all the info, including documentation and audio of the noise to Volvo HQ and that I would hear back from them.
Here is the response I finally received on Feb 18 from the service manager: "I spoke with tech again on this matter. Tech reviewed the case and the notes from Volvo. The noise concern has been left open ended for now until the noise gets worse as per Volvo. Or if they have other cases of this same concern with other same type cars/engines. At that time Volvo would contact us if there is a repair that needs to be done and we would contact you. Otherwise there is no additional diagnostics and or inspections to be done unless its getting much worse. As per Volvo and tech."
The car is under warranty for 1 more year, and my next service (37,500) won't be until the fall as I don't drive much. The noise is still the same, not better or worse. It still drives fine and there are no warning lights. However, I don't like leaving this opened-ended.
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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My daughter has a 1997 Taurus SHO and it's been running pretty well until this morning when a turn of the key failed to start the engine. The battery is fully charged but when she turns the key, we get the click from several places under the hood, including the starter relay. I'm pretty sure it's the starter relay, it's inside of the fuse box, is identified as "starter" on the guide printed inside of the cover and is black plastic about 1.5 inches square. The windows, radio, horn and all of the other accessories work, but no reaction to the key.
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I have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
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I have a 2001 F150 step side 4.6L that just stopped turning over to start. The engine rocks slightly when you turn the key, then nothing but a little electrical smell. Was starting fine up to this past week. Battery is strong and good and upper battery connections clean, has original starter solenoid. I am a weekend mechanic, my son's work truck, trying to do this myself.
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i have a 1997 Pontiac sunfire 2.2..i was coming home from work i heard a clicking sound coming from the motor then the car just died and it wont start back up.
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Went to start my truck up about 3 hours ago to take my ol' lady to work. Turned it over and acted like the usual cold start. Well soon as I thought it was good to let the engine spin, it got to about 300-400 RPM and then died. So I shut the vent off and turned my head lights off (turned them on soon as I thought it was good), spun the engine again and when it hesitated once again I gave it some gas like you would on a carb (not pumping just gave it half throttle or so) brought up the engine to about 3K and it ran just fine.
I'm not sure if its the fuel filter (when the last time my dad even bothered to change it since he has done most of the work on it in the time we've had it) or if the fuel pump is going out for the 3rd time in the last 10 years. The last time the fuel pump went it was a bad Walker fuel pump. It was promptly replaced with a Bosch and has been going strong for the last 8 years or so.
If it is the fuel pump, my guess is either my dad is going to junk it or fix it. With it getting close to 260K miles its becoming warn out and showing its age. Been pretty dependable and will do just about anything you ask and it'll do it even if it takes a long time to get going.
The fuel lines are pretty rusty so if its the filter chances are we'll have to put in a new section of fuel line in. Its probably running close to 135K miles on it since it was last done. I've only started doing maintenance on it the last 6 years or so for the most part.
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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My friend's 1997 4 cyl ranger died and won't start. Cranks fine with no codes on OBD2. Was running fine before it died.
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I have a 2000 V10 X and am having some starting issues.
Drove her to the store and she was fine. Went to drive home and she started to start, but instantly died. Then after that she wouldn't start at all...does not turn over. Had her towed home (which was fun...front wheels of flatbed came off the ground a little while loading her lol) and I have replaced the starter and the battery...still the same thing.
Thinking maybe the starter solenoid on the fender. Looks like a previous owner has installed something and ran power lines to the starter solenoid. Not quite sure what it is.
Here are some pictures:
Solenoid:
Extra box:
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I have a 97 Chevy Cavalier, 2.2 ltr, that started giving me problems last week. I was going to leave the house and got a bout 50 ft before I heard a "tink" noise and it died. It won't start now. I have checked everything that I can think of. It's not a rod or anything like that. It has to be something really simple. It will turn over, just can't seem to start.
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