Volvo :: 760 Turbo Will Not Idle Properly - Rough Between 55 And 70
Jul 29, 2015
760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car. What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.
I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal
I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.
I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that works and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.
When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740) ... I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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I've got an '88 Volvo 740 Turbo Wagon: 5-speed, 225K miles, that's been acting up over the last year. She doesn't burn oil (qt in 1500 typical) and appears to still be tight. The Turbo works and bearings make no noise. The engine service light does NOT glow (but I admit I haven't checked the bulb). I do have a Haynes manual and have been using it to assist with some results (see replaced items), but I'm not trained on this car and this manual is woefully lacking in good diags for some obvious things. (IMG: [URL] .....)
Symptoms: She cold starts OK, but try to restart warmed at all and she usually has to sit at least an hour or no go. Outside temp seems to make little difference. There's a gassy smell while cranking warm and it's very much like a flooded carburetor engine. Often, the engine will finally catch with the pedal floored after a long crank. Also, after warming and driving a few minutes, the idle erratically will not return to normal, sitting up at 1800-2700 RPM for a bit before finally calming down. It was also running a little rough. There's a fair amount of carbon at the exhaust pipe and MPG is only ~20 and I'm a light foot. The idle RPM varies a bit much moving around between 600-1100 RPM warm.
What I've done this year: It had a broken thermostat (replaced), failing alternator (replaced), failed starter (replaced), failing fuel pump (replaced with filter), recent oil change (has turned black after 800 miles). Most grounds around engine and firewall and 12 volt ignition contacts cleaned. The bat cables were cleaned and terminals coated. Ohm tested the injectors OK (all exactly the same, on spec) and they all "click" in operation. I replaced a bad coil (low ohms by 20% for both primary and 2nd) and changed the carbon fouled plugs (which were also ill-gapped by some hamhand), both of which worked for the roughness considerably. The plug wires all came up roses well under 10k ohms. The battery was a suspect for testing low so much when resting, but the alternator seems to have slowly fixed that (and problems come when system is charging OK). However, the main warm start and idle problem persists. (IMG: [URL] ....)
My next good guess: An obvious rich condition exists and, having eliminated quite a few other things, a sticking "Air Control Valve" seems the likely suspect (some call it an idle control valve but I'm going by the manual). My specific observations of this device: after a warm no start, I pulled the ACV electrical lead and she fired right up and idled well at 16-1800 RPM. I plugged it back in and she chugged and nearly died before idling ~800 RPM. As it idled normally, I pulled the rubber hose from the upstream air connection to the ACV and it chugged and died within 5 seconds. I noted the vacuum was very strong. Putting the hose on, it wouldn't restart till I removed the electrical lead again. The ACV circuit has continuity at the device but I haven't ohm tested it yet. My best diag is the mechanical part of the ACV is gummed up or worn out. The Haynes manual was almost no way in arriving at this conclusion. (IMG: [URL] ....)
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I have a 2006 Volkswagon Jetta GLI and when the check engine light went on I took it to my local car guy. He said the Turbo Waste Gate isn't closing properly and I should take it to the dealer to see if it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. He told me could replace it if that's what's needed but he can't repair it but I can still drive it probably just for a few months before it needs to be fixed.
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I have an '04 6.0 and it doesn something strange. When for example I am going up a decent grade hill and passing, if I have to let off the throttle and then re apply, the turbo won't build boost, it sits at a couple pounds for a few seconds. Then after a few seconds it will build boost quickly again and work generally as normal. If it doesn't respond and I really need to get it to build boost NOW, if I push the accelerator to the floor, the delay shortens and it will often kick down a gear and then build boost. So if I gently accelerate, very slow to recover, if I hammer it, much quicker but regardless, when it's happening it's almost always the same situation, fully warmed up truck, warm/cold/freezing day and it happens when I back off and re apply. Thinking maybe a worn unison ring but not sure..
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When I first get into my car, the AC works and the fan will move the air. However, after 20-30 min., the air is no longer cooling and I can barely feel the fan blowing the air and I have touched neither the thermostat control nor the fan. The AC will not put out cool/cold air with the fan at the same position until after the car has been turned off for at least 10 min.
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I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
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94 850 turbo will randomly smoke like crazy at which time it fills the car with smoke completely fogs whatever street you're on.
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It starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowing (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing. Had a volvo mechanic friend looking at it prior to my fiddling with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but I've done everything i can think of to tackle that problem.
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I have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.
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My 1999 Volvo has been diagnosed by a Volvo dealer to have a bad "cooling fan relay". Another shop analysis states the "cooling motor fan assembly module" is the problem. Are these one in the same? Can I replace it with one from the salvage yard? Are there any bad omens with messing up other electronic components If I make the repair myself?
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My 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
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1991 740 Turbo
200k
all stock
Now days I hear exhaust gas leak from inside engine room when the motor is fully warmed up and ran for some time. The other day I put seafoam treatment in the car and I saw white smoke coming from the turbo charger area.
Is exhaust gas leak from the turbo charger common? What are the possible cause for this?
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The past summer my 1994 Volvo 940 non-turbo over heated and we worked on the coolant system and got it working god again. However just after we fixed it the headlights blew out and we replaced them and then they blew out again. The battery was also going dead when the car was turned off and all electric things were turned off. Now the head lights don't blow but once they are turned on with the switch in the car they cant be turned off unless the battery is disconnected.
Also as of now none of the dash board instruments are working. With the car on and the lights turned on we pulled the connector to the switch that turns on the lights, that is on the dashboard, and the lights still stayed on. We can only think that some water may be causing the problem but it may or may not. I need to know how to fix the headlight problem and the instrument panel.
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My Volvo 850 turbo 1997 heat up after i change head gasket every thing is OK after 5 minutes off automatically. Any sensor problem.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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