Volvo :: 740 Turbo Drop Every Few Seconds When Idling
Dec 6, 2012
I have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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Daughters car is throwing this code of 17705 VW (1297) saying it is a "Pressure Drop Between Turbo And Throttle Valve" Car runs rough until about 2500 RPM. Replaced the pressure switch by the intercooler.
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I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
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94 850 turbo will randomly smoke like crazy at which time it fills the car with smoke completely fogs whatever street you're on.
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It starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowing (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing. Had a volvo mechanic friend looking at it prior to my fiddling with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but I've done everything i can think of to tackle that problem.
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760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
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My 1999 Volvo has been diagnosed by a Volvo dealer to have a bad "cooling fan relay". Another shop analysis states the "cooling motor fan assembly module" is the problem. Are these one in the same? Can I replace it with one from the salvage yard? Are there any bad omens with messing up other electronic components If I make the repair myself?
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My 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
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1991 740 Turbo
200k
all stock
Now days I hear exhaust gas leak from inside engine room when the motor is fully warmed up and ran for some time. The other day I put seafoam treatment in the car and I saw white smoke coming from the turbo charger area.
Is exhaust gas leak from the turbo charger common? What are the possible cause for this?
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When your car is idling the rpms drop below 600rpm and you can feel like its going to stall but then goes normal. How do i fix this? Clean throttle body???
Also how hard is it to change the transmission fluid? Possible to do it at home?
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I own a 1999 Ford Ranger. About two weeks ago, the engine started acting up. While the truck is idling, the RPM will drop down very low (like .5) and begin to sputter, then shoots up to about 2-2.5 RPM, then back down to .5. Sometimes it will drop so low that I have to give it a little gas to keep it from going dead (which it has a few times).
The motor has around 150k miles I would say (engine was replaced a few years ago, so the odometer shows higher than the engine). My water pump is also going bad, but I am having that replaced this weekend.
Here is a link to a video I did so y'all can hear/see what's going on [URL] .....
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My 1997 f150 5.4 has started an idle issue. The truck when started will idle around1200 rpm and not settle down After driving a bit it will drop down around 800 and idle rough and sounds like it has a plug fouled. As soon as you give it gas it clears up and sounds fine, then drops down an idles rough.
Checked for vacuum leaks but don't see any. pulled the MAP sensor and cleaned it, but did not change.
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I have a V40 with 122,000 miles. About 4 to 5 years ago it started to sporadically drop subtly the RPM. It does this no matter the weather, air on or off, etc. the dealer about 2 years ago changed the idle sensor. The problem still exists today. This does not affect the performance of the car. I bought the car new, the transmission was replaced about a year and a half after I bought the car.
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The past summer my 1994 Volvo 940 non-turbo over heated and we worked on the coolant system and got it working god again. However just after we fixed it the headlights blew out and we replaced them and then they blew out again. The battery was also going dead when the car was turned off and all electric things were turned off. Now the head lights don't blow but once they are turned on with the switch in the car they cant be turned off unless the battery is disconnected.
Also as of now none of the dash board instruments are working. With the car on and the lights turned on we pulled the connector to the switch that turns on the lights, that is on the dashboard, and the lights still stayed on. We can only think that some water may be causing the problem but it may or may not. I need to know how to fix the headlight problem and the instrument panel.
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My Volvo 850 turbo 1997 heat up after i change head gasket every thing is OK after 5 minutes off automatically. Any sensor problem.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
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I am acquiring a 1991 Volvo 740 Turbo and am concerned about the need to change the timing belt. The seller does not have record of it being changed since he had the car for two years. He had only put about 10,000 miles on it since he had acquired it. It now has 186,000 miles and runs perfect and basically in good shape for its age. If the belt breaks does it ruin the engine?
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I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
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I'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
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