Volvo - 740 :: 1985 - Overdrive Not Engaging When Cold Out
Feb 15, 2012
5 Speed Manual in an 85 740 GLE Diesel. The overdrive does not engage until the car has been running 15 minutes or so. What causes this?
View 3 Replies
Feb 15, 2012
Advertisement
Ford Transmission :: Rev Without Engaging If Overdrive Is On - Metal Sludge In Pan
I need to decide what to do with my transmission. I just acquired a 2007 F150 Supercrew 2WD 4.6L truck with 184k miles. While in Drive the automatic transmission (4R75E) runs ok thru 2nd gear and then; if O/D is on it will rev without engaging and if O/D is off it will just stay in 2nd gear.
I was hoping the problem was a broken retainer clip, as are so many others. So I removed the pan, and the valve body. All of the retainer clips seem to be fine, but, there is a lot of metal sludge on the magnet of the pan. See pic.
Should I buy a complete rebuild kit and take the tranny out of the truck? Is it just a problem with the valve body? I need to get the truck going so I can get to work. I am uneducated in the transmission department.
Volvo - 244 :: 1985 - No Ignition Or Spark
My son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1985 245 Refuse To Start Intermittently
My girlfriend has a 245 that we bought her last year. It runs really well except that every once in a while it will refuse to start. It still cranks and will sometimes turn over after trying long enough, usually running rough for a minute or two but then starts to idle normally. I have followed the no-start/stall guide and I think it's an ignition issue. The fuel pump relay looks to have been replaced recently and when jumping the pumps from the fuse box they both come on. I'm thinking it's a lose connection somewhere in the ignition system due to it being an intermittent issue. Tested pin 15 on the coil and it gets 12 volts - what should I do next to shake this down?
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1985 245 Runs Unevenly And Now Starts Hard
I have an '85 245 that runs unevenly and now starts hard. I got a Noid Light to check the injectors. My question is: Should the light blink or flicker?
This video: [URL] .... shows the light blinking but it's not an '85 volvo. The wiring diagram for mine shows all the grounds connected together which could (I think) cause them all to inject when any cylinder fires, and thus cause (observed) rapid flickering, but seems like a waste of gas.
Volvo - 740 :: 1985 GLE - Intermittent Starting / Engine Turns Over Just Won't Go
Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
View 1 RepliesVolvo :: 1985 Won't Idle But Dies Without Feeding Gas Till Warmed Up
what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
View 1 RepliesVolvo - 240 :: Auto / Transmission Will Not Shift To Overdrive
Auto/transmission will not shift to overdrive. Is there a relay between the o/d switch and the solenoid? Is it alright to drive on the freeway?.1988 Volvo 240 DL.
View 1 RepliesVolvo - 240 :: 1998 - Transmission Does Not Shift Into Overdrive (4th Gear)
My 1988 Volvo 240 DL a/t 200000 miles does not shift into overdrive (4th gear ). Is there a relay between the switch and the solenoid?. Is it okay to drive over 40mph.
View 1 RepliesCaprice :: 1985 Classic V8 Won't Start At All When Engine Is Cold
I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
Toyota - Tercel :: 1985 - Brake Pedal Goes To The Floor Especially In Cold Morning
So, until recently I had a 2000 Ford Focus but it was totaled in an accident not long ago and is long gone now. I was given a 1985 Toyota Tercel Wagon with about 194,000 mi by a family member. However, it has always had a problem whereby the brake pedal goes to the floor now and then and especially when it is cold in the morning. So, I took the car to a mechanic (hwy 64 auto, Raleigh, NC) and they replaced the Master Cylinder yesterday and bled the brake lines through the master cylinder.
The mechanic told me that the bleeder valves were too old and corroded to try to bleed them at each wheel and that they might break and then the caliper(s) would then have to replaced. Anyway, long story short, the brakes are WORSE after he changed the master cylinder and bled the lines from the master cylinder. Now EVERY time you first press the brake the pedal goes down then immediately you can "pump" them back up so either air in the lines or still a leak somewhere in the braking system. I do not want to spend anymore money (or at least very little money) on this car as too much has already been spent on other things before I got it and also after I got it.
Did the mechanic screw up or am I looking at a problem you have with some old cars where you start replacing parts in the brake system and then still have the problem or a new problem and then you wind up spending $800 replacing old crappy, worn out parts. What should I do? Did the mechanic screw it up or is it just time to send this old car to the scrap pile and crusher? Remember, I don't want to keep pouring money into this thing. I've already spent some money on it with other stuff lately.
Mazda - B2000 :: 1985 - Whitish / Lingering Smoke Emits On Cold Start
Recently replaced the valve-stem seals, along with the head gasket in hopes that would fix this, but no change. It is my 1985 B2000 that (sometimes) emits Enormous amounts of whitish, lingering smoke on a cold-start, enough to hide a Sherman tank or two. So far, the best way to avoid the smoke is by Not engaging the auto-choke (not depressing gas pedal at all before starting) and let it warm up, even though it runs roughly for a about 5 mins., and then smooths out, but, with no smoke.
Oil use is less than 1/2Qt per 3K miles. The smoke does not have the usual oil smell - but not anti freeze either, (only water in system anyway). And it seems that letting the engine idle a bit Before shutting down avoid the smoke... Problem started about 2 years ago, and after fiddling with it all this time with no good results. Tho' I have considered possibly something maybe coming down a vacuum line...? but have no way to confirm.
MAZDA B2000 1985 5-SPD No Air 160K miles
Bonneville :: 1991 AC Compressor Engaging But Not Outputting Cold Air
I have a 1991 Bonne LE with 150,000 miles. Have had GREAT luck with this car but realize it is getting high miles. I recently drove it about 250 mile trip and the A/C worked perfectly staying nice and cold. The next time I drove it, when I turned the A/C on, it got cold after about 5-10 seconds and then it was like you turned only the blower on with no A/C. It does the same thing every time I turn the A/C on, gets cold fast, then just neutral temp with no cold air.
I checked the compressor switch and it is working fine, and the compressor is engaging and staying engaged, but not outputting cold air except for the first 10 seconds or so. I do believe the temperature door inside the dash is opening properly. What I might check myself before taking the car in for A/C service? I am capable of replacing the compressor & seals myself but would have to have someone discharge the system and then recharge it afterwards.
The car is a rebuilder that I bought about 10 years ago. The fellow (very trustworthy) who rebuilt it replaced all the A/C o-ring seals when I bought it and made sure the system was fully charged. It has worked perfectly this whole time. He also gave me the a/c compressor and other parts from the parts car that was used to rebuild this one.
Lexus ES 2007-12 :: Drive Transmission Not Engaging In Cold Car
I recently bought 2007 ES 350 drove @700+ miles, 2 times I had this incident in this week, the latest is today. In cold morning when I try to drive the vehicle when it is cold when I pull the lever to drive mode the accelerator increases the RPM but the car is not rolling or I should say very very snail pace, so I tried pushing the lever back to park, then reverse drive the vehicle and then engage to drive mode it works fine but I hear lot of fan sound. For initial few min I feel that it is not picking up much speed but then it becomes normal. It really tensed me. What action can be taken to resolve this?
As per the Autocheck report this was manufactured in Jun 2006 and the vehicle service records from Lexus web there is no sign of any transmission problem or fix to transmission. The car has 100K+ miles on it.
Buick - Lacrosse :: 2007 - Brakes Not Engaging When Reversing And Car Is Cold
The brakes on my 2007 LaCrosse do not feel like they are engaging when I am reversing and the car is cold (first thing in the morning or first thing after work). The pedal feels very stiff/hard and the car doesn't feel like the brakes are stopping it. Every time I apply the brakes after that first time, they behave fine. I had the front brakes repaired/replaced but the problem persists.
View 2 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: A/C Not Blowing Cold Air / Clutch Not Engaging
Here is my problem: A/C not blowing cold air, blower motor working fine, checked all relevant fuses for A/C and R202 relay under the hood. Everything is fine here. Next, low pressure switch, jumped, clutch does not engage. Next removed relay R202 (clutch relay) measured voltages (at female sockets) where pins 1 and 3 would go, voltage OK. Jumped where pins 3 and 5 would go (bypass to see if clutch engages) and it does. Appears that the pressure switches check out OK (low pressure and A/C cycling switch - although this one not sure). CarMD unit was used as well, and no codes generated so perhaps PCM is working OK? I'm stumped, as a loss of GND by PCM or perhaps a corroded or open wire issue??
Also, possible the A/C switch on the HVAC control could be bad, but the light comes on, (doesn't mean switch is good necessarily). The rest of that unit works fine, control ***** that is, fan speed adjusts properly, air flow looks good. It appears this is an electrical problem where the clutch is not getting juice but I don't know the source of the problem. However, I also noticed that when the clutch/compressor was running (temporarily as described above) cold air still didn't come out. This, I assume, would mean I would need to add refrigerant or re-charge the A/C AFTER I get the clutch to engage electrically. 2004 F-150 5.4L ....
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 1999 - Air Conditioning Won't Blow Cold - Compressor Not Engaging?
Ok here is the issue, my girlfriend owns a MK4 '99 Jetta. Through the search I was able to figure out why she is having so many issues with her door locks and how they can be fixed on the cheap..thats awesome. But here is the problem. She was driving down the road the other day, A/C working...then suddenly it stopped blowing cold. Fan is still working, just blows hot air. She said it started blowing warm suddenly and hasnt been getting warmer through out the past days or anything.
With the hood popped and the a/c on, you can see that the compressor isnt engaging. The car makes a noise like its engaging the compressor, but nothing is happening that I can see visually. Seems as if the compressor is not getting the signal to engage. It sounds like its trying to make the compressor kick on about every 5 seconds or so. Basically that initial clicking sound that your hear RIGHT before the compressor comes on when its working normally.
We have checked the fuses and no luck with those, all look good. Seems like its an electrical issue to me. What this may be? Bad pressure switch? Low pressure in the system? I know the car has had the compressor replaced before...and the clutch seems to spin freely when the car is off.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2003 1.8T - Reverse Not Engaging On Cold Starts / Code P0732
I am having a problem with my MKIV, @ 182k. I think problem first arose a couple months ago when reverse began not engaging on cold starts, so I would have to sit there 5-10 minutes waiting for car to 'warm up' enough for reverse to engage. This led me to taking it to a local tranny shop who I asked to change fluid only, which they did. Problem persisted however, but forward driving was noticeably much smoother. If that matters. I gave up on it, since I knew it was only reverse messing up, and started parking in reverse overnight etc.
Simultaneously I had a code for P0420/P0411 (the SAI incorrect flow crap which causes catalyst inefficiency) so I went ahead and swapped out the cracked SAI plastic hose leading to stock airbox, after doing so I reset the CEL and ran the car. And it ran like crap, I think it was in limp mode (i had never experienced this in my Jetta) from what Ive read, but not sure. So, I pulled to the side, and restarted car, let it sit, same problem. Finally, after 3-4 cycles it threw a CEL, which ironically FIXED the problem. It ran fine from then on. Made it home, hooked up scanner and CEL code was P0732, which I read elsewhere is a 'Gear 2 - Incorrect Ratio' meaning 2nd gear is messed up somehow.
So, overnight I reset CEL and today in the morning I let it idle for 10 minutes before taking off, immediately same issue, where car will not accelerate/ change gears it seems. Went back straight home, waited for CEL to display, and VOILA, runs fine again. Same code P0732. Running fine as of writing this. Problem only arose after taking a swing at SAI code and reset of CEL's. Once CEL lights up its fine.
Volvo - S40 :: Hot Dashboard On A Cold Day
I own a 2005 volvo s40 i5. Recently I noticed that my dashboard gets extremely hot after just couple minutes of driving. Originally I thought this has something to do with the car's black interior. However, my suspicion changed when I noticed that the dashboard became very hot even on cold rainy days. (Below 60 degrees) This presented couple issues while driving.
1) On cold days, my windshield would fog up very easily.
2) on hot days, the cabin of the car can be intolerably hot. Both of my check engine light and my airbag warning lights are on.
However, auto mechanics cannot diagnose the problem because they can't get a reading through the diagnostic scanner. They said most likely the car has a electrical short somewhere.
What the problem is? Could it be an electrical short that cause excessive heat in the dash? Maybe the engine heat is venting into the dashboard? Fix?
Volvo :: Car Is Blowing Cold Air But No Heat At All
My car is blowing cold air but no heat at all. I checked the codes and it's throwing a B1 1-3-1. It's also throwing a A7 1-2-2. a buddy of mine is a mechanic but not too familiar with Volvo's. But he said that he thinks the B1 1-3-1 Driver's side air duct short is the problem. Is this the problem and how do I fix it?
View 3 RepliesVolvo - S90 :: AC Went From Cold To Hot Almost Instantly While Driving
I have a 1998 Volvo S90. I usually have to charge the a/c once a year to keep it cold. Today while driving the a/c went from cold to hot almost instantly. I turned it off, waited a minute and turned it back on. Cold just like normal. Two minutes later, hot air again. Turned it off again, waited a few minutes, turned it on, cold air but only for about 30 seconds. This was all done while driving. What might be causing this?
View 2 Replies