Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
View 1 RepliesVehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
I took my 2011 c30 in for its 30000 mile routine service to a local Volvo dealer service dept in Sept 2014 and ever since I am hearing an intermittent clank after starting the engine. I also hear the noise while driving (it eventually stops after a while) and for about 10 minutes after shutting the engine down. The time between clanks is about 20 - 30 seconds. It is a single clank sound (like metal hitting metal). The car operates fine and no warning messages.
I took it back to the Volvo dealer service dept and after 2 days they were perplexed, and asked me to bring it back the following week when their Master mechanic was in-house, which I did.
They had the car for 5 more days and never could diagnose the issue and were told by Volvo HQ to give the car back to me. The service dept told me they sent all the info, including documentation and audio of the noise to Volvo HQ and that I would hear back from them.
Here is the response I finally received on Feb 18 from the service manager: "I spoke with tech again on this matter. Tech reviewed the case and the notes from Volvo. The noise concern has been left open ended for now until the noise gets worse as per Volvo. Or if they have other cases of this same concern with other same type cars/engines. At that time Volvo would contact us if there is a repair that needs to be done and we would contact you. Otherwise there is no additional diagnostics and or inspections to be done unless its getting much worse. As per Volvo and tech."
The car is under warranty for 1 more year, and my next service (37,500) won't be until the fall as I don't drive much. The noise is still the same, not better or worse. It still drives fine and there are no warning lights. However, I don't like leaving this opened-ended.
I have a 95 Volvo 850 2.2 L (non-turbo.) I recently replaced the fuel pump, and filter. Now when I try to start the engine, it turns over and sputters before it dies. I let it sit for about 10 minutes and try again with the same results and the same with a longer wait time due to having to charge my battery. I have checked the fuel lines and they seem to be clear, up to the fuel rail. I also checked the plugs and although they need to be replaced, after sanding and re-gaping them, there is plenty of spark. The plug wires and distributor cap are fairly new, and the points look good. So the only problem I see as logical, is the fuel rail, pressure regulator, and injectors. I have bled the fuel rail at the shrader valve, and I am getting little to no fuel from it. I want to remove the injectors and rail, and check out the regulator along with the rest. But how do I tell if the regulator is good, and what is the best way to clean injectors so they will at least last till I can replace them with new?
View 2 RepliesMy son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
View 1 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 245 that we bought her last year. It runs really well except that every once in a while it will refuse to start. It still cranks and will sometimes turn over after trying long enough, usually running rough for a minute or two but then starts to idle normally. I have followed the no-start/stall guide and I think it's an ignition issue. The fuel pump relay looks to have been replaced recently and when jumping the pumps from the fuse box they both come on. I'm thinking it's a lose connection somewhere in the ignition system due to it being an intermittent issue. Tested pin 15 on the coil and it gets 12 volts - what should I do next to shake this down?
View 1 Replies5 Speed Manual in an 85 740 GLE Diesel. The overdrive does not engage until the car has been running 15 minutes or so. What causes this?
View 3 RepliesI have an '85 245 that runs unevenly and now starts hard. I got a Noid Light to check the injectors. My question is: Should the light blink or flicker?
This video: [URL] .... shows the light blinking but it's not an '85 volvo. The wiring diagram for mine shows all the grounds connected together which could (I think) cause them all to inject when any cylinder fires, and thus cause (observed) rapid flickering, but seems like a waste of gas.
What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
I have a 97 Volvo 850. A couple weeks ago, it stalled a half dozen times while starting. The engine would turn over, start, run for a few seconds, then stall. Before calling for a tow truck, I started it up again, and it ran. After idling for a few minutes, it appeared to run smoothly. We drove home without a problem. When I took it into the shop, of course it wasn't acting up. A little later, the technician called to say it acting up for him so he knew I wasn't going crazy. He took it back to the shop, and it acted up again for another tech. They have since put their instruments on the car but it refuses to tell them anything. The check engine light works. All pressures are to spec. The fuel filter has been checked as well as all fuel lines. The car has not acted up now for over a week. The shop still can't find the problem.
View 3 RepliesWhen I'm in a garage and start the car, with the headlights on 'AUTO', they go on immediately, even before the engine turns on and starts running. Is this bad for the wiring in any way?
View 19 RepliesMy wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
View 1 RepliesI have an 85 Firebird V6, 2.8L, tuned port injection, we bought it new and I have changed the oil every 2000 miles, it still runs great, except… The fuel pump gave out, I replaced it with a new Bosch, in the process I tried to replace the fuel filter, the line was rusted, it broke. I had to replace about 2 ft. of metal line with nylon tube, I also had to install a fuel filter with quick disconnect fittings, the filter is not the original but some generic because the original metal threaded fittings are gone. It runs great up to about ½ throttle, if I try to accelerate more than that it loses power and almost dies. If I turn off the ignition and restart the engine it runs fine for a while, full power all the way to full throttle.
I’ve noticed that if I keep the fuel tank full the problem happens less often.My theory is that the fuel pump is aerating because of not enough restriction in the fuel filter because it isn’t designed for that car, if I keep the tank full it is harder to start the aeration and stopping the pump and restarting it stops the aeration for a while. If I could get a fuel pressure gauge and be able to see it while I’m driving that would be great, but how? Also, what does the fuel pressure regulator really do? Does the fuel pump run all the time the engine is running? It also sounded like an electrical problem but it idles well and it is very smooth up to about ½ throttle. Could I just have a bad pressure regulator or does my theory sound like it makes sense?
09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a V8 5.0 liter engine. Here's the mysterious problem... the engine turns over when I turn the key but stalls when the key is released. Thinking that the alternator died, I replaced it with a new re-manufactured unit and the car's symptoms stayed the same. Also checked the fuses and the fuel filter and found that plenty of fuel is getting to the carburetor. This issue with the car not starting appeared literally overnight after I attempted to install a new radio. Prior to this the car ran reasonably well – always started easily and ran without a problem. Wondering if there is a possibility that I fried some part of the electrical system when I fussed around with all the wiring under the dash. Someone else had attempted the radio installation previously so the wiring there was already a mess of cuts and re-connections and was hard to sort out.
View 7 RepliesI have Holden Rodeo, am assuming these are very similar cars if not the same. Our 2004 Rodeo is having intermittent trouble starting, sometimes when the key is turned it is dead, no clicking noise, all lights on dash are on and engine light flashing. it goes from being dead to a short turning of engine, eventually it will turn over but may have trouble firing. the next time it will start perfectly.
View 10 RepliesThere is no problem starting the car- it always turns over immediately, but every 1 out of 7 - 10 cold starts includes a strange noise from the engine compartment. Just as I let go from the crank position, I hear a sound similar to that of playing cards being shuffled. The duration of the noise is just a second or two, just like the time it takes to shuffle once.
It never has happened when the car is still warm. I had the Toyota dealer look at it, but they couldn't reproduce the noise- not surprising, since I didn't leave the car overnight, and even if I had, it still would be unlikely to happen when needed. The noise has been happening for a year or so, and it doesn't seem to increase or decrease in frequency due to air temperature or weather.
I did have a lot of corrosion on the battery terminals last summer and had starting problems then, and had the mechanic clean the terminals and check the battery, and the battery was fine, yet the sound continues, but no further starting issues. What might be going on?
Having issues with 2009 Honda Odyssey. I'll describe, but I can't be certain these things are related.This morning, battery was dead for no apparent reason. No lights were left on, etc. Battery is brand new.After jump-starting, car ran fine for a few moments, then starting making loud intermittent "buzz" sound from engine/radiator area, down inside maybe on the left side of the radiator. There was also smoke rising from the engine.
I don't know much about cars, unfortunately, but cursory research suggests it might have something to do with the AC system.
I have attached a MOV which captures the sound it was making.
My diesel truck is stuck at work. It cranks but it's not starting up. When I turn the key, the glow plug light takes a lot longer than usual to turn off. When I try to start the truck, it cranks fine and I get a lot of white smoke coming out the exhaust pipe. I've had this truck less than a year and I know very little about Diesel engines. I at least need to get it running long enough to get home. The parking lot at work is really busy pretty much 24/7 and towing it out of there would get pretty dicey.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.