Have an issue on my 244 .1977 model. Sometimes the car won't kick over. The ignition seems ok but no starter....then after a while it will kick over and can't seem to find the problem. I'm pretty sure it's a connection issues somewhere but looking at the manual, there is a start inhibitor which I want to check but I'm not sure where all these are under the bonnet...the manual doesn't give any location.
View 3 RepliesMy 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
View 3 Replies1990 740 gl with 225000 miles and as a routine maintenance I want to clean my solenoid and maybe flip the contact and clean up the plunger on the bendix (inside the solenoid). No biggy right. I know my way around this car, replaced water pump, fuel pump, fuel filter, injector o rings, etc., sensor, etc over time.
The starter though wow - how do you get access to the top bolt? From top side I took off the bellows to intake manifold ( air breather element)but that top bolt I cannot see how to access with a short socket.
From the bottom I can get at that bottom bolt easily enough and actually got it out no problem but that top one wow. From underneath it seems like there horizontal room not vertical room due to the tranny dipstick.
This is the only part I am having trouble with, everything else on this car is pretty clean and clear. Again top starter bolt access tips on how to get it out without stripping it.
I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
View 1 RepliesI just changed my 2006 volvo s60 battery (located in the boot). Now everything works, the locks, the lights, the radio etc, but when i try to start the engine, it wont start. The starter is working, but engine wont follow. The manual of the car is in Dutch, so I was wondering, how to reset the security system or the immobilizer or whatever it is, that wont let me start the car.
View 1 RepliesI reset the MPG on the dash computer and the car died and won't. Start.
View 4 RepliesI have 65" Pontiac Catalina, sometimes the ignition does not stop spinning the starter motor, I think it is because the switch is not springing back to run position. If i turn the key back to off it stops but engine stop running too. I am afraid of burning up the starter motor, what do you think could be wrong.also is it just replace the tumbler or the whole ignition housing as well.....
View 3 RepliesI have a Toyota Tundra 2000 SR5 V8 4.7L with about 100k miles on it. Today the starter did not disengage after I turned the ignition off. I did not disconnect the battery in time and now the battery is completely dead (no charge even to the door locks). About two months ago I replaced a three-year-old battery after I could not start the truck and measured only about 9 volts on the battery with a multimeter. Now I realize that a starter already going bad was probably affecting the first battery.
Questions: Does it sound right that a starter that does not disengage will kill a battery pretty quickly? For a starter that does not disengage, are we looking at the starter or the solenoid or the relay or not enough information yet to know? Does this model Tundra have an integrated starter and solenoid or separate? Where is the starter? Is there any recommended order of replacement/troubleshooting (for example, start with the relay, or it's probably the solenoid so start there).
Looking at buying this used 2004 F150 and the Seller says it has a problem with the ignition switch; that it continues to run the starter even after the engine is running, which burns out the starter. He's an obvious layperson and doesn't know much about mechanical stuff (or he's pretending, IDK).
This sounds very strange to me, because if it's some kind of mechanical defect/factory defect, it's something that Ford should have identified, documented, issued a recall maybe, or something, yet when I research the issue the only thing I find is a problem with ignition switches that cause fires in model years that end in 2003 (not 2004). Other than that I find no documentation.
I wonder how accurate the Seller's description is, or maybe it's defective due to some other reason, like maybe a car thief shoved something into the ignition and damaged it, or possibly corrosion. Or maybe it's simply "sticky" and some spray lubricant would fix it.
I have an 81Volvo 240 sedan with a little more than 200k miles on it. I've had this issue with the ignition for several years now. Sometimes when I turn off the car with the key as normal, the car keeps running as if nothing happened. I've tried several fixes:1. moving the steering wheel violently and put the car out of park2. replaced the ignition switch.3. replaced the ignition switch relay.
Now the only way to turn the car off when it does this is to pull the relay under the dash. When I reconnect it, it works fine. But, I'd rather not have to pull the relay every time I want to turn off the car!
My son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Yaris 1.3 motor. Sometimes when I turn the ignition on it seems to keep wanting to start?
meaning it sounds like the starter motor isn't disengaging when the motor turns over, its been back to teh dealer twice now, someone suggested a relay?
I am taking it back again tonight for the auto sparkie to look at. The last time it did this I had to manually turn the car off to stop it turning over.
When I insert the key, there is current to the dashboard and the steering wheel moves into position. When I try to start the car, the dashboard is illuminated- the radio comes on etc- but the starter does not engage all. It's totally quiet. I remove the key, insert the key and try again. Sometimes the starter engages, sometimes not. When it cranks, it starts right up. The battery is good. We had the ignition switch changed out a while back, but it didn't really improve the situation.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1991 Volvo 940 SE with turbo and 162,000 miles
The problem is there is no spark coming from the ignition coil. There is power going to the ignition coil but no spark. The car turns over but doesn't start.
I have replaced the crankshaft sensor and the Ignition Module. The wire that goes from the ignition module to the Ignition Coil has been replaced with a new wire that goes directly from the module to the coil .
Also the coil has been checked and its operating within parameters.
We have a 2007 XC90 and there is some issue where the car locks itself. It happens when the key is not in the ignition. I'll get out of the car and without pushing anything on the key tab it will lock. Then it will not unlock unless you hit lock, then unlock.
It happens all the time. Sometimes 30 minutes to an hour after getting out of the car and parking it in our garage. We rarely lock the car in our garage but we almost always find it locked.
Some observations....
- Seems to happen more often in the cold.
- Seems to be an issue with the car (educated guess) and not the key as it locks itself even when the key is completely out of range.
2000 Volvo S70, 177K - This car is new to me, and shortly after purchasing it, I began having difficulty removing the ignition key when arriving at a destination. With the transmission in Park, and the engine shut off, the key just won't come out. Then again, sometimes there's no problem at all. Oddly, the problem seems to correlate with the cabin/engine temp. If I allow the car to cool off, then go back to it in a half hour, the key will usually come right out. Same thing with short trips. I'm fortunate so far that I've not been in any high crime areas where leaving the key would be risky; but I will need to solve this eventually.
I understand that there's a safety switch/sensor that ensures the vehicle is in Park before the key can be removed, and I've tried being a bit more "forceful" in shifting to P, but that doesn't seem to work. I'll be taking this to my mechanic anyway for a state safety inspection followup; are there any hints I can give him if I can't figure it out myself?
Is the temperature factor suggestive that the problem is in the transmission sensor? I'd prefer that the issue be a sensor or adjustment rather than in the ignition switch just to avoid the re-keying mess.
In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
View 6 RepliesI am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
So when turning the key there is no response or noises coming from the vehicle. The battery shows 12.3 volts. What are possible problems? We were also having new issues yesterday with the vehicle not getting enough power after getting dusted with snow repeatedly in a snow storm and from passing vehicles.
View 14 RepliesWhen I drive my 1977 MG Midget, the headlamps dim, then brighten, then dim, then brighten...constantly. Dashboard lights appear to do the same. I have had no troubles starting the car since it was retrieved from storage in April. What might be causing this?
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