Volvo - 240 :: 1993 - Location Of Brake Switch?
Jul 2, 2015
We have a late year model '93 240 sedan. Brake lights are not working, we've checked all the usual suspects. We cannot locate the brake switch. It is not in the usual location under the dash. There is a bracket there for one, but it seems that this is a late year model and the switch location may have been moved? Where this is located? Would really like a schematic so we can get to the bottom of this issue! Car is obviously out of commission until brake lights work.
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My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
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First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
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I was recently driving my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon over the Bourne Bridge in bumper to bumper traffic (surprise!). Traffic was moving at 3-5 mph as I navigated the rotary and ascended the bridge. Needless to say, I was developing leg cramps as traffic crawled up the steep bridge incline. Once I crested the hill, I shifted to neutral (still 3-5mph to coast down the decline and give my leg a rest. After coasting for a few minutes I attempted to shift into second gear to re-engage the transmission.
I was unable to slip the gear shift stick into any gear! I continued to make sure that I was depressing the clutch all the way to the floor, but still could not muscle the stick into a single gear (by the way, I never smelled that "burning clutch smell"). After about a minute or more of mental disaster planning, I finally coerced the shift into third gear. A minute or so later, I was able to shift into second gear which got me around the accident causing the delay and onto the highway. From that point on, I was able to shift normally for the remainder of the 2 hour trip. What happened and what could I have done to solve the problem? (The car is now at the repair shop where they are equally perplexed).
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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My son has a '93 Ford Probe that is not getting power to the key switch. He has power to the fuse box but that's it. Seems someone that was working on it for him and hooked up the battery wrong, blowing fuses. Replaced ALL the blown fuses but still no start. My question is are there fuses or fusible links from the fuse box to the ignition that could be causing this problem or is the problem in a different area?
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Just cleaned out the oil seperator box on my 93 850, put new injector seals in and a new intake gasket. Start up the car ran rough for a little then idles like a champ. The problem-shift up indicator is blinking. Barely put my fut on the gas shifts up a gear then back down then back up, I think I unplugged something by accident.
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
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What could be the cause for a viscous fluid on the floor of the car on the driver's side. "White" smoke comes from the engine and it makes a noise. Car is a 1993 Volvo 850 stick shift.
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Recently I have noticed my 1993 Volvo 940 makes a noisewhile driving, that sounds as best I can describe as a card in a bicycle spoke;or kind of like the putt-putt sound, you hear from a large truck idling next toyou. I hear it while driving, wheneverstepping on the gas pedal, but not while idling, or when the car is in park or natural. The faster I accelerate the louder the noiseis. I want to try to trouble shoot this but I do notknow where to even begin looking into this. Maybe there's a leak somewhere.
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I have a 93 Volvo 850 N/A, there is white smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, not alot but enough, also there's like a white/ yellow foam on the dipstick tube, but the coolant has not changed, so im assuming its not a headgasket. I have cleaned out most of the vacuum lines and flame trap but cant find the pvc valve.
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Looking for the low pressure switch, (back towards fire wall, black cap on it passenger side) I think I found it, but when I hook up the AC pro that gauge doesn't register any psi, when I hooked up same AC pro to our Acura TL the gauge registered and I was a little down so I added some In.
So any tips on what's up? Wife's car blows cold air just wanted to see where it's at and if I need to check for leaks or just add some 134a ...
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I have the subject system in my car. US Spec IS350 RWD F-Sport. The manual says the on/off switch is to the left of the steering wheel on the lower part of the dash. I have no such switch in that location.... Where is PCS on/off switch.
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I need to know where is the radiator fan relay switch located on a 2000 jeep grand cherokee laredo. My check gauges light comes on. The temp gauge is on 260. I had it checked out. My radiator cooling fan isn't running.
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I can't seem to find the location of the neutral safety switch on my 2005 accent 5 speed manual. I removed the air filter box and looked all around the top, bottom, and sides of the tranny. I have the new part so I do know what it looks like.
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