Volvo - 240 :: 1992 - Loud Clunk When Flooring The Gas Pedal
Jan 15, 2015
When I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
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When I put my car (04 s60 2.5t) in reverse it hesitate, then when I press the pedal it roll back with a loud clunk noise. But if I put the car in drive before putting it in reverse everything goes smoothly.
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My Dads 92 Volvo's engine is making a knocking noise and I'm wondering what the possible causes are. He doesn't take that great care of it but it didn't over heat or anything. It sounds like it is making a loud knocking or clicking noise directly from the engine when you accelerate. It still runs but definitely has a lack of power.
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2005 V8 Phaeton,82,000 miles.
If I ease on the brakes ,no problem but if I hit the pedal there is a loud bang or clunk from underneath,sometimes front and sometimes in the back. It's as if the wheels stopped but the chassis went forward and back slightly. As long as I put the brakes on gradually there is no problem stopping.
When I come off the Interstate and leave the off ramp, the low side of the front end sounds as if there is no shock absorber ,doesn't matter which side is low,they both do it on the low side.
Intermittent problems.
Steering wheel turns and grinding,groaning noises from under the hood, not all the time.
Going over a speed bump in a parking lot causes the same noise I get exiting the Interstate.
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My R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
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I had the front engine mount replaced on my V6 - 3VZ and most of the what I call a clunk has been solved but when traveling at most speeds and taking my foot off the accelerator the transmission seems to clunk and when I reapply acceleration it clunks again. Its like the transmission has to catch up or decrease to the engine speed......my way of describing it!
The mechanic who replaced my front engine mount talked to his friend in the transmission business and they feel it may be a chain in the transmission that is stretched (like a bicycle chain) and the slack causes the clunk. I have never heard of a transmission using a chain, however, I have no clue. Is there a chain? If there is, can it be tightened? If there is not, is there something else that can be tightened? What can I do to eliminate the clunk?
The fluid was changed last year and is red. We are retired and can't afford a transmission rebuild. Everything else is in good shape on this 1992 with 229,000 kms. at this time.
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I own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I won't have to do any unnecessary cutting or modify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also).
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Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
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I just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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Have swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
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My "bulb out" dashboard indicator came on and after checking all lights I could not find a burnt out bulb. I took the car to the local dealer and they told me the "bulb failure relay" was bad and needed replacing. I decided to try and replace it myself but so far I'm not doing to good.
I found this picture on another website and also read that the realy is permantly mounted to the relay board. Also, when I looked at pictures of the replacement relay they lok nothing like the original.
So now I'm wondering how the heck do you take the old relay out and get the new one in that doesn't at all look like the original?
Attached File(s) : RelayPanel760960A.gif ( 31.06K )
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I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
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1992 Volvo 240 ... I'm having car jerking problem after running for about 20 minutes at speed between 90 -110 kph. Car stabilizes again when the speed comes back to 90kph. There is no problem initially when running beyond 120kph when the engine first started up. The problem only starts after a short while.
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Cranks strong, I have fuel to the rail, 12V at the injectors and spark. Have changed crank sensor and 2 relays?
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I just got caught in the rain, literally, a freeway ramp was partially flooded, saw other cars go through a "puddle" and with safety distance proceeded. About 9 feet away from the edge of this water accumulation my engine sputtered and turned off on me and I recall seeing some, but not much white smoke coming out of the hood. I didn't leave the car as when I look right next to me I saw only water, about 1/2 the height of my tire surrounding me. AAA came pretty fast and pulled me out of that wet mess and mentioned it could be just as simple as overheating. It's about 2 hours later and I tried my engine but all it does is struggling to turn on. I turned it off immediately. I checked my coolant level - empty as it can get, and also my dipstick in the oil seems to be not right. Transmission fluid is fine though. Could those two fluids be the problem to why my engine is not starting? Or could it be that something got too wet? Once I turn the key in the 1 position shows electricity is fine and all lights come on with Overdrive and SRS going off after a short while. 1992 Volvo 240 ...
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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We are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
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Something is snapping/clunk in 4 wheel about every 20-100' driven on the left side. Slightly notice it in 2 wheel but 4 it's loud and you can feel the clunk. It's almost like when you feel the transfer case bind up, yet feels like it's right in the left side, up front. Yes I have to put new tires and rotors up front, upper and lower ball joints and inner tie rod on the right side. U joint in front drive lines feel solid.
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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I have a 92 volvo 240 and have recently got a check engine light. I got a code reading of #241 on number 6 terminal. What that means and how to correct this problem?
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