Volvo :: 2004 XC90 T6 - Vehicle Requires Acceleration Effort To Get Up To Speed / Feels Heavy
Mar 19, 2016
I recently bought a 2004 XC90 T6. It has several issue and one strange issue is the sluggish performance: the vehicle sort of hesitates, requires quite a bit of acceleration effort to get up to speed, feels 'heavy', and in general does not seem to have the right amount of power. What makes the issue strange is that performance improves, noticeably, when the car is starting to run out of fuel, or when the "low fuel" light comes on. It is not a placebo effect: i've verified it several times that soon after the light is on, the vehicle becomes a lot more responsive, accelerates well, engine seems to sound quieter a little even.
I do not know much about cars. I am slowly learning after purchasing this vehicle. I verified that the air filter is clean. It has synthetic oil put in. I recently changed the spark plugs (very proud of that), that did not seem to improve the performance. My plan is to purchase and configure VIDA diagnostic tool and scan the vehicle while driving. It might also be worth mentioning that the vehicle is getting very poor mpg, averaging to 6 km per little.
One important note: the MAF sensor is faulty: i drive with it being unplugged, however when it is plugged in i experience the same as described above. I know it is faulty because when it is plugged in and the car is started up, the RPM goes to 2000+ and there for up to a minute or longer. If the MAF is unplugged this does not happen.
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Have 2014 XC-90 w/10k miles. Problem is sporadic (has happened approx 10-15 times over past year).
From standing stop (stop light, etc) -- press on accelerator and VERY LITTLE to no acceleration. Engine continues to run smoothly -- no indication of fuel starvation, no roughness --- just no acceleration. It does NOT appear to be transmission oriented because when it finally "kicks in" there is no feeling of transmission shifting or wild tach movement (to indicate that there was a changing of the gears, etc). I get things back to "normal" by pumping the accelerator (usually a reflex action because the are vehicles behind me wanting to "go"). VERY disconcerting issue.
Local Volvo dealer says "cannot find any error messages", etc. My only complaint with the car -- second XC-90 and 5th Volvo.
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My xc90 will crank but not start 99% of the time
Here are the following codes
(P0336) - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance
(P0040) - O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Sensor 1/Bank 2 Sensor 1
I have replaced the following
1.timing was off i have corrected this using the correct locking tools and VADIS
2.fuel pump was leaking - replaced along with filter
3.coil packs have been replaced along with spark plugs
4.replaced the crank position sensor and cradle
5.replaced the starter motor just for the hell of it
I have had the car running 3 times but this only occurs rarely and once i turn it off it wont start again . I have herd it could be 1 of 3 things .
fly wheel, starter motor emp messing the crank position sensor signal or gearbox has not got the correct earthing to chassis or bell housing to engine
I checked the 3 grounding points on both sides of the fenders and sanded the contacts ...
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Volvo XC90 T6 AWD (2004) Changed my battery and now my turn signals won't work, won't show from display panel (interior) or light up (exterior), and my fog lamps are also not working. Used a memory settings save backup and checked fuses but can't figure out what's wrong. Electrical worked fine before battery change. Battery was aftermarket (non-OEM).
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My 2004 Volvo XC 90 has a severe "thump" in the front end, which is then followed by a very brief (split second) internal (meaning dashboard lights, hi-fi, dome lights, etc) power failure. Initially, the power failure would last only a split second and then car would continue running as normal, and there we no error codes or check engine lights.
But on the last long drive home, the "thump" was harder than usual, and the lights internally completely went out, hazard lights could not be turned on, blinkers could not be switched on, hi-fi went out, etc (though the electric windows would work). I pulled over, and turned the car off and restarted it, and the yellow exclamation point dashboard icon/alert lit up, and a service message flashed referring to the anti-lock brake failure, and that the SRS needed to be checked.
This problem has been occurring for a couple of months, and is very intermittent. Before this last incident, I took it into the dealership, who could not figure it out,. Now that I have an error code, I have it at another dealership, who seems equally mystified and have told me that they don't think the error code of check the SRS is going to fix the problem. The engine thump, followed by electrical failure seems really weird....
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I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
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My XC70 makes a weird whistling type noise in heavy rains that last a long time. It doesn't do it in light rains, or rains that are heavier but don't flood roads or collect water on the shoulder or slow lanes, only the really heavy, hard to find the road type.
There are no warning lights when it happens, turning off everything, except the car and windshield wipers, doesn't work. Pulling off the road, works after about 30 seconds, but then we start again, and it continues. This is only happening during really heavy rains, is scary, and I don't have a clue what it's doing or why nor does my mechanic.
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Have an 04 Jetta GLS 1.8t manual. While accelerating at lower rpm and I'm kind of on the gas to get up and go it starts bogging out. Could almost describe it as a little jerky. Anything over 3000 rpm there's no issue. Doesn't matter what gear I'm in either.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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Scenario- Start car, back up, and cut wheel to the left out of the driveway. There is a loud, crushed can noise. Yes, just as if I had run over a can, but didn't. This only happens if the air conditioner is on.
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Here's the story on my truck. Spits and sputters between 40-60 during heavy acceleration and on rare occasions will jerk/pop while at a steady speed. No engine or wrench lights. I thought it might be the fuel filter and changed that, it didn't work. I also ran two bottles (on 2 separate occasions) of Duralube extreme fuel system cleaner, that didn't work either. So, I took it to the Ford dealer for a diagnostic. They had a hard time getting it to act up but said it finally misfired on #8 and recommended replacing the ignition coil and plug. I did that, still have the same symptoms. So, I thought it might be the fuel injector and changed that. Still same symptoms and ZERO dummy lights.
After several YouTube videos, I thought it might be the TPS and got one. Before I changed that however, I cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor, still same symptoms. I finally changed the TPS, but the engine wouldn't start or run at all, no warning lights yet. When I put the old TPS on, it would run. I unplugged the TPS and it still ran but very rough. Now the engine light IS on! Thinking I purchased a bad part, I took it back to O'Reilly's and they warrantied it out and gave me a new one. I had 19 PO codes. I changed the TPS again, and, it won't start or run at all. Put the old one on and it runs. They cleared the codes and told me they think it could be the ECM/PCM.
Why will a new TPS not work? I still have the same issue of hesitation @ 40-60 during hard acceleration. No hesitation during a moderate acceleration.
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I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
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I have just replaced the rear discs and pads on a 2008 XC90 which has solved the problem I had with them. However, the parking brake is not working. When the old discs came off they did so easily without any resistance and the new ones went on just as easily so as far as I can tell the parking brakes weren't disturbed. The parking brake did come on after 3-5 clicks before this work was completed and now they are not operating after 8 clicks so am at a loss to understand this problem.
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RE: 2007 Volvo XC90 90k miles
Pulled into my driveway last night with the power steering working intermittently for last 5 minute leg of my trip. Woke up this morning with no power steering and sqealing noise coming from engine.
No fluid leak on driveway. Drove to dealer with no power steering. Very hard to turn wheel - even while moving.
Dealer checked and said it was not a fluid issue and that they thought a screw might have fallen out and needed to take apart the rear of the engine (a 5-6 hour job) just to diagnose the problem.
A screw from the steering column in the rear engine?
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.
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We have a 2007 XC90 and there is some issue where the car locks itself. It happens when the key is not in the ignition. I'll get out of the car and without pushing anything on the key tab it will lock. Then it will not unlock unless you hit lock, then unlock.
It happens all the time. Sometimes 30 minutes to an hour after getting out of the car and parking it in our garage. We rarely lock the car in our garage but we almost always find it locked.
Some observations....
- Seems to happen more often in the cold.
- Seems to be an issue with the car (educated guess) and not the key as it locks itself even when the key is completely out of range.
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I had my radiator replaced last month and the day after I got it back from the shop the instrument cluster died (sort of). It functions intermittently but is off a majority of the time. I can tease it on by pressing the on the front of the cluster in the lower left corner but it goes out again when I let off the pressure. I called the shop and they told me there was no way that any work they had done replacing the radiator could cause the cluster to go out, but I am not so sure.
Since then I have been driving not aware of my speed (I actually have an app that gives me my speed but is a sad workaround) or knowing how much fuel I have in the car at any given moment. And, as you who know what type of money pit I am driving, all of the notifications to warn me when something is wrong. which it usually is, are located in the cluster as well. As soon as I have a working cluster I will sell it.
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I'm the guy with the XC90 in Gabon. Someone brought me some power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil,......but I forgot to ask for radiator fluid....crap!
Today I got the red triangle and low coolant warning...topping it off with water made it go away, but I need some fluid. I can't get Pentosin radiator fluid here. Is there another kind of radiator fluid I can put in the car that will mix with the existing stuff? If I just get ethylene glycol base will that work?
Or....If I drain it all,out and start over from scratch...does it matter what kind of fluid I put in?
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I have a XC90 and starting recently the air volume doesn't work anymore. To be exact, you can feel very light air coming out of the vent even you turn the air volume to max. I went to a shop and was later told nothing wrong with the fan or the resistor. So they suspected it could be something wrong with the computers but since they normally work on American/Asian cars, they dont have the software for European cars to proceed further. On the way back home, I suddenly felt some steady air coming out, but it keeps at the same strength no matter how you play around with all those air volume buttons.
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My fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. I have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???
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