Volvo :: 2004 S60 2.5t - Engine Run For Only Few Second And Cut Off
Dec 12, 2012
I drove my 04 s60 2.5t car to the store, while on my way to the store, the car surges 3 times. On leaving the store the car started and run for about 10 seconds. This happen several times to the extent that I have to towed the car home. I tried using my CAN OBD II scan tool to retrieve any error code that may be responsible for the engine cutting off immediately after start, but it registered no error code. The check engine light goes on and turn off after a few seconds.
1: why would the engine run for only few second and cut off
2: Why no error code was registered
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My mothers 2004 Volvo S40 (original body style) has an illuminated check engine light. Dad took it to their local dealer. Unable to get a code from the cars computer and guessing the problem might be with the fuel filler cap seal, the dealer sold them a new fuel filler cap, offering them a refund on the cap should that solution not work. It did not.
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I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while. The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.
I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.
This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.
The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?
What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor? Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?
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My volvo is running fine but the ETS Light, OIL light and Check Engine LIght are constantly coming on and off intermittently. In March of 2011 the independent volvo specialist cleaned the throttle body and a cracking turbo hose. In September 2011 the dealership recommended to replace the dipstick tube and to reseal angle gear. In October 2011 the dealership tech notes possible internal failure to the transmission shift solenois, oil pump seals and an internal failure to the electronic throttle module. Recently I had the oil and filter changed and the check engine light reset but days later the lights all are back on. I am unable to smog the car until these light issues are resolved.
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The volvo dealer states they do not know why there is no oil pressure going to engine. First they stated needed reset valve then new oil pump but neither was the issue. Now they state "internal problem within engine". So either have to take engine completely apart to diagnose or replace entire engine. The car has been maintained religiously and is in mint condition. Love my car but not sure what to do next. Thought of towing to independent mechanic for second opinion?
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My 740 GL has recently developed a strange problem. Regardless of speed, whenever I push the accelerator to near wide open throttle or WOT, the engine loses power. It idles down to about 1000 rpm and will not respond until I pull over, turn off, and restart. It doesn't exhibit this behavior when in park. The car runs great otherwise (85+ mph) as long as I don't get close to WOT. I replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, and fuel filter.
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There are two issues with my 1994 Volvo 940 (automatic). They may or may not be related, but that is why I'm asking.
1) When the engine is cold and at a stop sign the engine will rev up and down. After the engine warms up, the issue goes away.
2) Also when the engine is cold, when taking off from a stop the car doesn't seem to want to go.
You can mash the gas all the was down and it just kind of slowly gains speed. Eventually (5-10 seconds) it will act like normal and go and shift fine. I hope that is enough info and makes sense. I'm just trying to see what the problem could be and how to fix it.
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Drove my 2004 Volvo S60 today and open the sunroof this morning. I made 4 stops and shut the car off but let the sunroof open because it was a nice day and did not lock it since I was as buddies house and we were outside. Drove back home about 12 miles and parked the car and before I hout the engine down I tried to close the sunroof and nothing. Checked fuse 34 (15 amp) and replaced it and still nothing.
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I have a 2004 Volvo S40. For the past few summers, when it gets hot out, especially if the car is sitting in direct sun, when I get back into the car to start it up it stutters and often won't move when I press the gas pedal. I have taken it to several mechanics and they never fix it. When it's really hot, sometimes it will stutter when I am stopped at a light and threaten to shut off. So, what is going on?!?
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We have an 04 Volvo V40 which won't idle when it's cold out, especially at altitude. Not all the time- it seems to be somewhat random, but it is getting more frequent. Our mechanic has replaced the MAP and TCV sensors and that didn't make any difference. What to try next? It recently passed an emissions test, so when it idles, it runs fine.
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I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
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A friend of mine has a 1989 240 I'm trying to get road worthy so he can sell it. After regapping, cleaning intake, cleaning idler, new sender, new in-tank fuel pump, and new MAF (all needed to be replaced) the engine still has issues accelerating from idle.
Did the usual diagnostics (#2, #6 LED flash modes). Even took apart the throttle body sensor to make sure that was functioning.
Idle is good and smooth. If I slowly open up the throttle the engine behaves well enough, but if I ope up the throttle to, say, 1/8th from idle the engine will hesitate POORLY. I can even make the engine die. I can drop the throttle to zero and rev back up fine so long the revs don't go down to idle. I made double-sure the throttle sensor clicks from the idle position (the sensor just has two spst switches to detect zero and high throttle).
Engine sounds fine otherwise. No problem opening up to full throttle once I get the revs a little above idle.
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When I turn on my headlights my engine goes completely off. Once in a while i have to twist the key twice to turn on or hold the gas separate from that it run greats its a 1987 740 4door sedan...
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Volvo 940 1994 engine shuts off while driving?
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My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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I've got a 2003 Volvo S60 with close to 121,000 miles on it.
Last winter, my Engine cut out on me as I was taking a sharp right onto my home street. At first, I thought I hit an icy patch and my car had skidded, but then I realized the engine was off, but all the lights on my dashboard were on (including all the warning/alert lights). I put the car in park, turned my key into the off position, then tried to start it up. It immediately started. Other factors: There was snow and I had just recently exited the highway.
Everything seemed to be going pretty well until this winter (in Connecticut) when my car cut out on me again. Just like before, I assumed I had hit an icy patch as the car seemed sluggish and unresponsive (and it had just snowed). Again, it happened as I was taking a right turn, and it's happened about three times since.
Today was the first time it happened as I was making a left turn. Luckily, I was the last car in the turning lane, and I managed to get my car more or less close to the shoulder and put my hazard lights on (as traffic was now approaching), and Nik Nak rebooted just as before.
I used to think the cold/snow had something to do with it, but it was 50 degrees today. Also, I'm not entirely sure, but I think the wheel may have been turned as far as it could go. I honestly can't remember if that was the case the other times it cut out. I plan on experimenting in a parking lot tomorrow to see if turning the wheel all the way is causing it.
What might be causing it? (And besides not turning the steering wheel all the way, how this problem may be fixed?)
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My 2007 Volvo S40 T5 AWD has an engine whistle at idle, but it stops momentarily when I turn the stearing wheel left or right, then comes back. Whats up?
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I’ve been having an engine misfire issue for a number of months. The dealership first changed the plugs, ignition cable kit and wiring, and that fixed it for a while. Then it came back and dealership couldn’t figure it out. They tested the O2 sensor and drove it around for a week to no avail. So I kept driving and have noticed a few trends. First the car drives better in overdrive, or when the rpms are 3,000 or above. Second when the car stalls, if I am trying to restart it immediately I have to give it some gas. Third it doesn’t mind idling in park. And fourth I’ve been having a battery drain. To solve the battery drain I’ve been charging the battery every night, and that definitely works, but I only get about 20 miles before the misfire comes back, and sometimes the misfire is just there immediately regardless. So I just replaced my alternator, and that didn’t solve the issue either. So what else could be the issue? I'm kinda at a loss and driving the car on the highway when the misfire starts is not exactly safe.
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I own a 2002 Volvo S40 Turbo with the following problem. Every now and then the "Check Engine" light comes on. Then, when I turn the ignition off, the car shakes violently for several minutes. Last time this happened, I took the car to the dealer, and the computer diagnostics came up with this message: ECM-44 MISSFIRE, EMMISSION LEVEL, FAULTY SIGNAL INTERMITTENT FAULT. What is wrong, and how it can be fixed?
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