I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else.
I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to.
It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to.
My '03 XC90 T6 starts right up when cold. It runs fine when hot. but now I have an engine light and these two OBD codes: P0420 & P0607
What would cause this hard starting.
And if I open the hood on the car for about 1/2 hour in the cold, it starts right up. Otherwise, it just cranks and cranks. Fuel rail seems to be getting fuel b/c when I'm cranking the engine then I turn the key off (not started), the fuel line has pressurized fuel in it.
96 sebring 2.5l v6 non-convertibleRan terribly for 12 blocks when I bought it, then died and wouldn't start.Bought it because friend said that mechanic had told him it just needed the head gasket changedReplaced the head gasket then it would crank but not start
checked, getting spark and compression on all 6 cylindersreplaced:-ecm-crank position sensor-combination distributor/camshaft position sensor/coil-flushed fuel system and replaced gas. checked everywhere for possibly misconnected wires and possible misconnected vacuum tubes, they are all triple checked ok. Checked the timing about a dozen times. Checked for misaligned timing sprockets, all ok, no sheared keyways, valves open and close at appropriate times / correct order and crankshaft timing mark matches cyl 1 position.
Fuel pressure is great.Turns over but doesn't fire at all.
About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
View 1 RepliesSometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
View 4 RepliesMy dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
I had my radiator replaced last month and the day after I got it back from the shop the instrument cluster died (sort of). It functions intermittently but is off a majority of the time. I can tease it on by pressing the on the front of the cluster in the lower left corner but it goes out again when I let off the pressure. I called the shop and they told me there was no way that any work they had done replacing the radiator could cause the cluster to go out, but I am not so sure.
Since then I have been driving not aware of my speed (I actually have an app that gives me my speed but is a sad workaround) or knowing how much fuel I have in the car at any given moment. And, as you who know what type of money pit I am driving, all of the notifications to warn me when something is wrong. which it usually is, are located in the cluster as well. As soon as I have a working cluster I will sell it.
My xc90 will crank but not start 99% of the time
Here are the following codes
(P0336) - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/ Performance
(P0040) - O2 Sensor Signals Swapped Bank 1 Sensor 1/Bank 2 Sensor 1
I have replaced the following
1.timing was off i have corrected this using the correct locking tools and VADIS
2.fuel pump was leaking - replaced along with filter
3.coil packs have been replaced along with spark plugs
4.replaced the crank position sensor and cradle
5.replaced the starter motor just for the hell of it
I have had the car running 3 times but this only occurs rarely and once i turn it off it wont start again . I have herd it could be 1 of 3 things .
fly wheel, starter motor emp messing the crank position sensor signal or gearbox has not got the correct earthing to chassis or bell housing to engine
I checked the 3 grounding points on both sides of the fenders and sanded the contacts ...
I have a weird issue - I think. I recently purchased a 2005 Volvo XC90 V8 with about 150k miles. The car runs great and is really in good shape. The one issue I have is that sometimes the car wont start. There is just a clicking noise when turning the key. This only seems to happen immediately after the car is stopped. If I wait 10-15 minutes the car starts up just fine.
View 11 RepliesI don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
I have a stock 1994 Celica GT with the 5sfe M/T .... I do have a headgasket leaking, and I am having another motor rebuilt and put in next month. I just need to nurse this one along for now. Right now it cranks but will not start. does not even fire up at all.
Code 12 - so I got another dizzy from the salvage yard, the pickup coils ohm out like they should as does the ignition coil. and I bought a brand new condenser for it as the old one tested bad. and when I first got the dizzy i put it in and it fired right up and ran for a couple days, then began doing it again. I went back to the salvage yard and grabbed another one that tested good, and when I put it in it fired up the first time but then shut off and has not started since.
But is it possible for the distributor to still be the problem even though the coils test ok? the shaft doesn't have any play in it, and the air gaps are within spec. I can barely get a .2mm between them. I also grabbed a couple of igniters while I was there. When I get it to run it may die when its cold and give me a code 14.
So from there I'm down to testing the distributor circuit, and the starter signal circuit, and the ECU. What is the best way to go about testing this to be Certain of what I need to go buy instead of just replacing stuff.
I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.