Volvo :: 2002 - How To Reset The Pump After Been Immobilized
May 25, 2015
Posting for a friend, 2002 Volvo s60 5 cylinder N/A. She got in a fender bender, only seems to be cosmetic damage. Airbags did not deploy. Says it stayed on long enough to pull off the road and then cut out and wouldn't start. I'm not familiar with volvos and any information i have found online is completely contradicting.
Assuming Ecu cut fuel after impact, I have read there's " a switch under the dash" which I find unlikely. Other info say to replace fuel relay and many say it has to be taken to dealer and hooked up. Any information as to reset the pump after it's been immobilized?
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I reset the MPG on the dash computer and the car died and won't. Start.
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I had to change the battery in 1994 Volvo 850, and now the radio won't play because it needs the "code" to reset it. However, the owner's manuals are long-gne, and I don't know what the code is. how to re-set the radio without the code?
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I'm in some sort of crises (passat 2002 GLS); I was trying to inspect the fuel tank release switch on the driver door panel, Now the the car is totally immobilized, can't bring the window up, the remote doesn't open or close the window and most important, the engine is not starting.
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My 2007 Lexus ls460L is completely nonresponsive to anything. The key won't work and it won't lock on unlock from inside the car either. How would I go about resetting the engine immobilizer?
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02 Santa Fe was recently in a minor accident that popped the airbags. Engine won't start now. Where do i find the reset for the fuel pump?
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I crashed my f-150 2010 and its all fixed but now I have to find the fuel pump reset which I can not find!!!
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OK, so I have a friend with a '89 Volvo 240 which has trouble starting. He usually can get it started by cranking and pumping the gas pedal furiously. This usually gets the car started quickly, although today it barely sputters (seems to want to start after lots of manic foot pumping, but ultimately fails).
I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.
Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.
Another problem he reports is that after driving a long distance (more than a few blocks) the starter won't run unless the engine sits for at least 30 minutes.
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 and have previously owned a 740 for many years. I've only owned this car for about 1 month. The car appears to have been well cared for. Doesn't leak a drop of any fluids, everything works, and mostly a really nice old car. What happens is that it idles rough when it's cold. In fact, I have to pump the gas pedal to keep it going. When I first start off, the performance is less than what it should be too. Once it get warm, it mostly runs fine.
I have so far replaced, the Plugs, Wires, Cap & Rotor. All the vacuum lines, crank position sensor, Air Mass Meter and the fuel filter and most all the fuel lines too. The Fuel Pump Relay was replaced but I removed it and saw a few cold solders and fixed those but no changes in performance. Before I replaced the Air Mass Meter I brought it to local shop and they returned a readout of 2-3-2 which I'm understanding means running too lean. That's why I replaced the Air Mass Meter. (I did notice a big improvement once I replaced the Air Mass Meter too.) It was interesting that when I replaced the Distributor Cap, I noticed like black carbon in there and I'm not sure what could cause that. Although, I did find the previous plugs were not all the same. Three of them were high spark performance plugs and one was just normal
I pulled the Idle Air Control Valve and plugged one side to ground and the other side to 12V and noticed the flapper moving when powered on/off. The previous owner told me he replaced both fuel pumps about two years ago. It also looks like the fuel regulator valve is mostly new.
I'm guessing now that I have a problem with the Idle Air Control Valve or perhaps the Fuel Temp Sensor under the intake manifold. I purchased the Fuel Temp Sensor and just have not installed it yet. I really don't want to remove the intake manifold but I know it's not going to be that bad. I know that it could be carbon build up on the intake valves but I'm not quite convinced yet. I put some fuel cleaner in the tank to see if that works and so far nothing yet. The car only has 150K on it and I was told that during the owner before me did do highway driving.
When it's warm, the car does run very very well. The idle is still a bit quirky even when warm. For instance, when I power on the A/C, the idle RPM doesn't increase like I expect that it should. (It did on my 740) ... I'm still thinking maybe it's the Idle Air Control Valve too. Perhaps it's intermittent or do I understand that they can gradually open and gradually close?
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i have had this problem before where the relay for the electric fuel pump would quit intermittently, and had it fixed. but, i suspect this is acting up again. so, i was gonna do it myself. there are 2 relays strapped to the radiator overflow can. is one of them the relay i am seeking?
What started all this, motor was running really rough at idle, but ran ok once moving. So, I replaced the spark plugs, and cleaned the contact areas in/on the cap and bug. motor started right up, and actually sounded good... for about 10 or so seconds, then it died, like the gas was shut off. I do have spark.
How to check/test the fuel pump relay and could pass this info on to me would be good. i do have test light, and DMM.
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I have a 1995 945SET the rear washer pump works but no water comes out of the nozzle, where do I find the rear washer nose and how do I get into it to repair or replace it?
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I recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
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I have a 2000 V70/XC volvo with 95K miles. I began hearing a strange hollow noise, like a whistle blowing. I took it to the dealership where I bought the car and they said it was the fuel pump. I asked them if it was bad and needed to be replaced and the said they weren't sure about having it replaced right away. They said sometimes it will make that noise and the fuel pump could last for months and sometimes for years. They even suggested to just drive it until it fails then replace it. some say it could never go out. But it bothers me because it is the car that my wife drives daily taking kids around and running errands and so forth. I am always worried that she could get stuck somewhere anytime. So I am not sure what to do.
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How long you have to drive a car after you reset computer before all the systems will respond? I have an '02 RT with a 3.5L. I had to reset to clear a check engine light on Tuesday and when I went to get an emissions test on Friday it failed because it could not get a reading from the evap or cat sensors. He said I would have to drive it a while for those to have readings but how long.
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I have a 2002 Passat. How to reset my check engine light. I need to get it inspected and it won't pass inspection until the check engine light is not on. Last year I took it to a mechanic who could find nothing wrong with it but reset my check engine light for me and it cost $250. Is this something I can do myself? I've had the car since it was new and the check engine light has gone on and off periodically for the past 10 years.
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I drive a 2002 Opel Corsa and am completely clueless when it comes to anything beyond changing oil and tires...
My windshield wipers have suddenly begun to stop their movement in the top position instead of at the bottom, thereby getting in the way of driving. The wiping function still works perfectly, so it doesn't seem to be a motor issue. The wipers just stop in the wrong position when turned off.
I happened to be at the garage for something else, and the guy there said that he would just have to replace the motor, but to try to to find a used part somewhere so that it wouldn't cost a lot. I think it seems silly to replace the motor for something that seems simple.
How to reset the default of the wipers? Is there a way to just remove the blades and change the position or something?
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I have a 2002 Mini Cooper I bought a year and a half ago. The last couple of months when I shut my car off I sometimes hear a buzz sound near the center console and my trip odometer resets to zero, and my LED clock resets to 12 Midnight. Sometimes it happens when you open the door after turning the car off. In the Mini's there is a feature that the windows automatically lower a 1/4 inch when you open the doors, allowing air to escape when you shut the door after exiting. When this happens, sometimes that triggers the "buzz" sound and the reset thing happens. This doesn't seem to effect anything else, its just bothersome because I keep track of my miles with the trip odemeter, and I have to keep correcting the clock. Oh Yeah! one more thing that happens, when i am using the Air Conditioner and slow down after full speed, there is what I would describe as a power surge. All the dash lights go off for a split second then come back on.
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I have an 02 S60 T5. Everything on my dash is dead. It on occasion works for a minute in the morning when extremely cold but then as always the ABS light comes on with the red exclamation mark below or above it and the message centre saying brake failure, please stop immediately. Of course no break failure, when it the dash does work all functions work fine. But the most I get out of it is a minute or so. It does not track mph and speed/odometer does not work, message centre etc.
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This has been a wonderful car to say the least. Has about 150K on it and it drives like a champ. Recently the instrument cluster went out, sometimes it will randomly work but 9/10 times it's off. When I used it to jump start another car the instrument cluster began working almost instantly, although this was only temporary. When the temperatures are low as they are on the northern east-coast right now around 30ยบ and lower (shivers) it will work. Why is this? does anything to do with the battery having to work harder?
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Fuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
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My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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