Volvo :: 2000 S60 Power Loss And No Start / Whirring Sound
Apr 24, 2015
The wife was stopped at a light in her 2006 S60 and when the light changed and she accelerated the car stalled and died. It would not start and thus I had it flatbedded back to the house. Id been told at the dealer during a service trip ($$$) that the alternator might be going bad as it was making a whirring noise and was given an estimate to replace it, the serperntine, pulley, etc.. of $1300. At the time it wasnt a driveability problem and being a working stiff I didnt have the 1300 to spend so I decided against doing the work. Thus, when the car stalled I figured it would be the alternator causing the problem and draining the battery.
I recharged the battery overnight figuring I could get the car turned on then remove one of the battery terminals to verify faulty alternator. However, car would not turn over, Id only get what sounded like a click from the starter. Fine, I figured, the alt killed the battery so I went and purchased a new one and installed it. Car would still not start and Id still get the click from what I believe is the starter. Tried the old bang the starter with a hammer and still nothing. Checked the connectors to the starter and all seemed ok.
At this point, the dreaded "my wife seized the engine" thought popped in my head. I then tugged a bit on the serpentine and noticed the crank turn slightly so Im pretty sure she didnt seize the engine. (fingers still crossed on that one).
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My '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
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My 1998 Volvo V70R with only 53,000 miles (I'm the original owner) has picked up a problem. It started a year ago and seems to occur only when I do not let the car warm up for a few or several minutes: once I put the car into drive and start to move -- no matter how slowly -- a loud, high speed whirring sound begins. It will last for a minute or two and then stop. The speed of the whirring is constant and is not affected by how fast I drive or even if I come to a stop. It happens in both cold and hot temperatures. The whirring does not occur if I start the car and just let it idle and warm up. The loudness of the sound is such that it can be distracting to pedestrians 40 feet away. Changing the oil hasn't worked. More recently, the noise sometimes reoccurs in the middle of a drive. It always occurs when I start the car after it's been sitting for a few hours or more.
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Well zipping along the highway tonight, sitting on 100KM/h, and all of a sudden the engine loses all power. As luck would have it a fuel station was just closing (the only one for half an hour either side) and kept the lights on so I could have a look. The starter is nice and lively, and the engine is trying to fire, but just wouldn't. I asked a mate of mine in town to come out and give me a hand troubleshooting.
As it turns out, when the ignition switch is set to the "ON" position, normally the fuel pump primes the lines. It's only doing it intermittently for some strange reason, and not making it past the fuel filter (despite the filter being new). The temporary buzzing in the engine bay when the car is switched off is gone now too.
Now my question is - does this sound like fuel pump? I'm only used to the older fuel pumps in carburetor vehicles, not these fingle fangle electric things!
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So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
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I have two issues with my 2000 6.8L gas excursion. Neither seem to be causing any harm...
1st issue - While its raining, or even just really humid, on a cold startup, my truck runs rough. it almost feels like it wants to die, but doesn't. After about a 1000 feet down the road, it runs normal.
2nd issue - I've started noticing that almost always, I here a whirring type of sound coming from the back. It is not from the brakes, as they are new and the sound is best heard at a complete stop. The sound lasts for about 3 seconds and then repeats after a few more seconds. At first I thought it was the coolant circulating through the pipes that run to the rear heater unit, since the sound sounds a lot like fluid flowing through a pipe. However, my coolant level is normal and the system is tight and I have not had to add any since the only major overhaul in January. At idle, the engine sounds like it isn't idling at a constant rpm, but more like a slight up and down in rpm, but the amount is so slight, it doesn't register on the tach. The only other thing that comes to mind is the fuel pump. Is this sound a sound of imminent failure of the fuel pump? Or is it normal? The truck otherwise runs great at any speed and pulls my boat as well as I would expect it to.
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Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
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I've got a 2004 Elantra, 4 Door Sedan. My wife drove it yesterday and parked it. She later attempted to start it, and it won't start. When she turns the key, the car makes whirring sound like it's about to start up and gets to the point just to where it should turn over, but never does. Lights come on, etc, so it appears it's not a battery issue. We're not super mechanically inclined, but sometimes things like this can be easy fixes.
On another quick note: her car had it's engine light come on a few weeks ago. Took it to the car parts store and read it as a catalytic convertor issue. It went away after she refilled up on gas, so we figured maybe it was some bad gas.
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Took my 850 Turbo out on the freeway today, and when I put the pedal to the floor on the onramp there was a very disconcerting loss of power just as the turbo was really kicking in. No issue under mild to medium boost, but when pushed hard there is a short loss of power/hesitation, almost like a backfire, then boosts again, then the same power loss until I back off on the gas. Cannot get full boost without this happening.
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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On my way to pick up my mother in law yesterday I noticed a strange whirring sound whilst at the traffic lights, thought that was a strange new sound anyway I guessed something was wrong so on arrival I noticed an oil like mark on the left hand side of the car on the wet drive. So it looks like I may have a corroded power steering line. Got the car booked in with the chap who does my vehicle repairs for me is this a difficult job on the V10?
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2000 Honda Accord. Lots of whining-whirring noise when turning the steering wheel so I replaced the power steering pump. Then replaced the fluid and I did use the Honda fluid. But even with the new pump and fluid I'm still getting the whining-whirring sound from the pump when turning. Now what?
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Well, today i had my first bout with tranny issues of any kind either before or after my BTS installation. After sitting all day at work, heading home, the shift i guess from 2-3 at about 40-50 mph shifted really hard, BANG. Heard a whirring/whining sound, lots of slipping with the TC. After a lil ways it was like it was in neutral.
Coasted to stop. Went thru the gears from park, rev, and drive about 3 times, got movement each time. Got out, looked for obvious, no fluids or linkages apparent. Drove thru town about 25-30 mph. Felt like it was "hunting" and shifted like a manual grinding gears. Got on highway and no overdrive and im thinking no high gear either.
Push button on shifter light changes, but no change in operation. Running 60 and rpms are turning 2700ish. Still "hunting". But while hunting it isn't wide rpm swings, just a small amount, not wide enough for a gear shift. I am thinking that its torque converter constantly engaging and disengaging.
While letting out of gas it coasts down with TC still locked up all the way down to about 1100 rpm before unlocking. Then I start seeing the OD light flashing. Ok, classic wire chafe in steering column. But it doesn't always flash, only sometimes. And fuses are good. Temps never got above 150 during this 50 mile drive.
So i get home (and its frigging dark already, i hate that this time of year) and I log on and start reading up on this again to refresh my memory. I had called Brian over at BTS when it happened as i was going down the road, he was busy at time. He called me after i got home and i explained and he talked me thru some things. Wanted me to pull the codes and get back with him tomorrow. I did that and the screen shot is below. I will talk more with Brian tomorrow.
But during some of my reading i think i came across some others that had similar trans codes and the issue ended up being the alternator. Alternator ? For trans issues? Is that right? I guess stranger things have happened. I have a high output alt waiting to be installed but haven't yet. I guess we shall see. Brian thinks it something telling the TC and trans to act that way. Doesn't think anything mechanical, yet, leaning towards electrical.
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
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Pulled out of the restaurant I ate dinner at tonight and I lost most power and there's a loud air sucking sound. I felt around all the boots and didn't feel any air, but it was really hot and couldn't feel a whole bunch. It's a 2003 7.3 with 295k. There is a little smoke/soot coming from the turbo area, any chance that's related? I'm perplexed...
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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I've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
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my wagon runs fine, but when i start the engine it makes a weird sound (the same sound you might here when a UFO zips by in movies)... also, the check engine light comes on and stays on throughout the duration of my trip... what could be wrong?...
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So, first, I need to tell that my car was just turned away from the only mechanic that is a "volvo mechanic" in the region because he said it grumbled and shook too much and it was too much of a liability.
There is only one thing I am concerned about, because it has been grumbling and shaking since I bought it five years ago and it hasn't gotten worse (so why worry!)
This car is a 1991 Volvo 740 sedan with 250,000 miles, a 4-cylinder gas engine and rear-wheel drive.
I have a siren sound coming from the front end, but only sometimes.
When I first start moving forward, I hear a "whooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOPPPPP!!!!" (sounds like a siren) for about 50-75 feet while I am going about 25-30 MPH. It only happens when I first start rolling forward when I first turn the car on from sitting for a while (3 or more hours). If I come to a stop, I don't hear it. If I park and run in somewhere and come back soon, I don't hear it.
I have been hearing a small "whoosh whoosh whoosh" sound coming from the front end that gets faster the faster I am traveling, and I don't know if that is related.
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