Volvo :: 1999 - Vibration Starts Around 65 Mph And Continuing On Up
Jun 2, 2011
1999 Volvo XC AWD. There is a vibration beginning around 65 mph and continuing on up. Most pronounced at about 70 mph. It feels like when running over the little bumps in the highway designed to let you know you are straying too far off the road, but not as strong. Also no accompanying sound. I have take it to my favorite garage and they diagnosed it as an inner front CV joint. I replaced that as well as left/right control arms (they were worn) and replaced the drive shaft (also needed). The vibration continues and we are all stymied at this point. I also tried switching tires from this car with another Volvo. That did not work, so I have ruled out a bad tire/rim.
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I have a 99 Volvo V70. Sometimes when I start it, it turns over and then dies right away. It may do it once, or it may do it several times, but it will start start eventually. I am bringing it in to the garage next week, but they don't seem to think they will be able to fix it unless it happens while the car is in the garage. Since it doesn't happen every day, I'm worried that they won't be able to fix the problem. If so, why did your car die right after starting?
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My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
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Here is the noise that I am getting... Ignore the ticks and such, I'm talking about the LOUD whining noise at startup, and continuing at idle(although somewhat quieter)
[URL] .....
Some information : 2006 Camry 2.4L.
I have removed the belt to verify that the noise is not from any belt-driven components. Using an Engine Ear, it gets louder towards the exhaust manifold, but apart from starting to tear things down.
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My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
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We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60 2.4T. I have problems when starting the car, sometimes it starts instantly, but most of the times I have to try 5 or 6 times for it to start. I took it to many shops but non of them could find the problem.
Some said that it was the problem with the clutch position sensor, I replaced that but still it was the same.
Here is a video of that problem ( this is not my car, but my car has the identical problem) [URL] ....
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I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) Car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.
Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)
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I have a 2000 volvo S40 19T, it starts up, and will run just fine if you give it any amount of gas, but it just wont idle. I unplugged the MAF sensor and it ran the same. I then took the IAC valve off and put a towel over the port (To let some gas in but not completely shut it off) It runs GREAT like that! I kept the IAC plugged in and the towel over the port, started her up and put a lot of pressure on the towel to cut of all air, the car idle went really really low and then it shut off. Now since the car knows it is stalling, and it needs more air I should be able to see the IAC opening and closing (Remember it is plugged in, but in my hand), it didn't move at all!
I have run the car with my towel over the IAC ports and chased all around the intake manifold and other intake duct work with carb cleaner to try and fine vacuum leaks to no avail. I even did the towel trick with a multimeter hooked up to the wires that plug into the IAC valve, it is getting a small amount of voltage, say 2 to 3 volts, but the new valve still won't open, and I have yet to confirm that the current changes with idle fluctuations when I press on the towel.
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I have an '85 245 that runs unevenly and now starts hard. I got a Noid Light to check the injectors. My question is: Should the light blink or flicker?
This video: [URL] .... shows the light blinking but it's not an '85 volvo. The wiring diagram for mine shows all the grounds connected together which could (I think) cause them all to inject when any cylinder fires, and thus cause (observed) rapid flickering, but seems like a waste of gas.
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My '94 Volvo Sedan just loses power, no dash lights come on, it just silently dies. It starts right back up. I took it to a mechanic who checked out the fuel pumps (he said there were 2) and they tested fine. He replaced the fuel filter. It is still dying. It seems to happen when it is hotter, mornings are fine. It hasn't happened in the last few days because the temp has been about 82 tops. I read earlier today on this site that it could be the ignition module. I have replaced the air filter, and am running fuel injector cleaner also.
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While driving in the rain, AC in auto blowing cold air, hot air starts blowing. Cannot shut off blower (now on high), blowing very hot air. Radio control knobs stop working. In fact entire center control panel ceases to work. Shut the car off for 15 minutes and everything works fine. After the first time, car ran fine fine for 90 days before it did it a second time. Mechanic could not duplicate and reloaded software. May not know if car is fixed for months?
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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Coming home from vacation, I noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle.
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I noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle. Any thoughts?
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I have a vibration that comes and goes at a regular interval. Starts at about 60+ MPH on up. Most apparent between 70 & 75 MPH. The steering wheel will visibly vibrate for about 3 seconds and become completely smooth for 1 to 2 seconds. This vibration interval repeats over and over, in Drive or Neutral. I have replaced both outer tie rod ends, driver side wheel bearing, L & R stabilizer bars, rotors, pads and calipers. Passenger side motor mount which was visibly broken, others all ok. Finally, I just replaced both axle shafts with brand new ones. Front tires are in balance and round! At lower speeds, 60 and below it is smooth as silk. Bumps sound good, no rattle noises or loose sounds. No pulling left or right.
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I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
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I've checked the wheel bearings, lug nuts and wheel balance. Sometimes the car will shimmy or vibrate not in the steering wheel and not all the time. It will vibrate for a day or two, then nothing, then vibrate again. It was not vibrating today, then I took some curves hard at 35 mph or so and it started a medium level vibration. This vibration started a day or two after the ABS, traction control, and check engine lights came on while nearly completing a 10 hour drive. I have described this to a number of mechanics and the fact that the vibration goes away has them stumped.
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"I have a 2001 XC70 WAGON and is making big noise while moving, bigger the speed bigger the noise, engine in idle and in N (while in speed) the same. Could this be because of tires?
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2005 Toyota Camry 3.3 automatic trans
No codes or lights currently on.
When driving I notice a shuddering feel when going highway speed plus. Feel the vibration when accelerating or maintaining speed.
I put the car on the lift and:
1st gear up to 55 no shudder
2nd gear up to 65 no shudder
3rd gear up to 60 to 80 shudder
Happens from here on in
The whole car vibrates. I do not feel any lack of performance when this happens. I don't feel hesitation or shift issues. Shifting is smooth. The engine does not move when putting in gear. However when I brake the whole thing jumps. This is while it is in the air.
Engine mounts, drive shaft, or cv transaxle?
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