First time Volvo owner. Love the 97 850 that I got, but it runs really rough, and I don't know if that's normal for these cars or not. When I say it runs rough, I mean that it vibrates like crazy (not shaking, but vibrating) and it's loud. Every other car I've owned sounds smooth when it's idling or accelerating, but not this one. And I don't mind the noise at all, but the vibrations are a little frustrating.
View 3 RepliesMy 740 (1990, B230E, non-turbo) has been running rough at low rpm. Once above 1800 rpm or so it's fine. I've changed the Distributor cap and rotor arm (they were both shot), but the problem persists. I'm thinking injector relay or ignition stage amplifier next, but I don't want to just through parts at it.
The plugs were changed 3 months/1,500 miles ago. The misfire is intermittent.
I have a 2003 Volvo S40. I just replaced the battery, spark plugs, coils, fuel filter along with a fuel system flush. Because the car was running very rough. It's been 4 days since i got it back from the shop and now my car won't start unless I give it gas. The car won't stay on and it smells like it's running very rich.
View 1 RepliesMotor seems to burn out spark plugs every month. I was using non volvo sparks. I took car to Volvo dealers and repairers who gave car a diagnostic check but nothing showed up. They told me to use Original Volvo Spark Plugs which I did. The Car went great with no problems for about 3 months thinking problem was fixed. Low and behold the same problem came back.
I changed spark plugs again (original Volvo) and car only ran for 10 ks and then ran very very rough with no power. Motor felt like it was running on a few cylinders. It seem this problem happens mostly in hot weather. Motor also heats up but when cooled down runs well again. I intend to buy new rotor Bosch and Distributer cap and if needed coil.
This 960 is pushing 150K miles, is in good shape, and well maintained. I have replaced the swaybar links, and entire muffler system.Still, I hear clunking under car as I drive over rough road. My mechanic says there is nothing loose underneath. It's a sweet car and much fun to drive. With rear wheel drive it turns on a dime. How can I solve the annoying clunking noise?
View 1 RepliesMy 1997 f150 4.2L 2 wheel drive truck has been running rough only in the morning. In the last year I have changed the plugs, wires etc. As soon as I start the truck and attempt to drive, it is very hesitant, runs rough etc., but if I only give it a little gas and not push it - the truck will run fine. This will only last about 45 seconds and then it runs normal for the rest of the day. I do not have original FORD sparkplugs and someone told me that might be why. I spoke to a mechanic (did not work for Ford) and he told me it wouldn't make a difference.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE with the 2.4 engine and auto trans. If I'm stopped and in drive the engine feels as if it's going to stall, the entire car "shutters". The tach reads between 700 & 800 but if I place the gear selector into either neutral or park it becomes "glass" smooth, I even have to look at the tach to see if the engine is still running! In neutral or park the tach still reads 700-800 rpm and the A/C is always switched off.
I've had it to 2 different Toyota dealers and yesterday to my regular mechanic. 1st dealer said to disconnect the battery and bring everything back to default positions...no difference, battery was off for 35 minutes. 2nd dealer said to have the throttle body cleaned, which I did...no difference. A bit of background with the vehicle, I've had it since new, I drive 170 hiway miles per day, I use Shell branded fuel, oilchanges always at 5,000 miles, dealer serviced since new.
So yesterday my mechanic checked everything, engine mounts (OK), any error codes (none) cylinder compression (all within spec) spark plugs (OK except for 1 so I asked him to change them all), he installed 4 NGK iridium plugs and guess what...it still shutters & vibrates!!
I am having a problem with my 1997 f150 4.2 v6. The engine is running rough at idle and while driving. It's running so rough that it vibrates the entire cab of the truck. I found water in the oil when I was trying to fix the problem. I have since had the heads redone and replaced all of the gaskets thinking this was the reason for the rough idling and rough driving. It wasn't; doing this fixed the water in the oil but still I have the rough running engine at idle and driving.
I have replaced the EGR valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, replaced the coil pack, fuel filter and air filter (everything has been replaced with ford recommended parts because I have read that the engine I have doesn't like after market parts). While driving the engine vibrates and sound as if it's going in a cycle in a rhythmic sort of way (like a washing machine goes in a cycle), best way I can explain it. I have come to the end of what I think it is?
I have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I purchased a 1999 F-150 Lariat 4x4 automatic transmission about a year ago. When I did, the previous owner told me about an idle issue that he has occasionally. He said that the issue was with the IAC. He claimed that he had replaced it several times but "it was hard to get a good aftermarket IAC that actually works". He said he tried several, but it never fixed the issue. That sounds like he wasn't replacing the defective part to me, but I don't know. This is my first truck to ever purchase.
Fast forward a bit (about a year), and I have had intermittent issues with idle and running rough since I bought the truck. I don't drive the truck that often, but they are becoming more common, so I want to get things fixed now.
Issues:
1. When running at idle, especially in park, the idle seems to fluctuate and never stay consistent. The idle drops as soon as I put it into drive, and the truck jerks a bit when going into drive because the idle was too high in park. It has never died while at idle, however.
2. When driving, especially up a slight or moderate hill, the power seems low and the truck starts to ping and jerk. The only way I can avoid the jerking is to stomp on the accelerator and go into a lower gear. And even when doing that, I still can notice an ever so slight jerk.
3. This past week, it was rough for an entire 40 mile journey on the interstate. Slight ping the entire ride home. When I pulled into the driveway, it was jerking until I turned it off. I haven't tried to drive it sense.
Potential issues:
1. IAC - maybe the previous owner was right. Maybe I should replace it again, or clean it with some carb cleaner.
2. Cam Phasers - I saw some posts about this on the forum.
3. EGR valve - Also saw some posts about this.
4. Maybe even the transmission? It doesn't seem to have an issue going into or out of gear, though.
I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
View 14 Replies2002 F150 5.4 v8,,, I had troubles just over a month ago with a po305 code. i got the truck fixed with 2 new coils n some gaskets. I am having these po353 & po171 codes pop up now. The truck is running rough and I am curious to if its just another coil problem or if their is something I am overlooking or just don't know about?
View 1 RepliesThese are the code that keep spitting out. I have a 2002 f150 5.4L supercrewand it is running rough. I had this problem about 3 months back but i didnot get any codes from the computer i washed my truck a 1/2 day earlier, 2days later it went away. this time it has spit out 4 codes a po306/po307/po300/po316. the po307 and the po300 are gone, but the other two remain and it is still running rough 2days later. i had just washed my truck 30min. before, it started happening, is there water somewhere? My dad (long time mechanic) says use wire dry on the cops and it will go away. I have read other post on misfiring and I am still not sure what to do?
View 10 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
I have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
View 5 RepliesOn my 1997 F150 4x4, at 15 or so MPH up front it starts to hum & vibrate (not shaking type vibration but tight vibration) and hum gets louder and vibe becomes more predominant as speed increases. 1 person who is pretty credible (but nobody is perfect especially me) told me its not uncommon for bearings in front diff to go bad. He also mentioned to me they can be a pain to change and may be much simpler to get a replacement gear set from a yard. I will be changing brake pads, rotors, calipers and hubs this week.
I didnt feel any overwhelming heat coming from that may occur from bad hub bearings, when I spin wheels do not hear any unhealthy sounds nor is there any play on hubs but I am replacing them also anyway. Is he correct about the possibility of bad bearings in front diff and not uncommon for them to fail? Also, Side note I am also installing torsion bar keys to lift front about 2.5". Should I get extended sway bar links to replace originals or would stock be fine?
2001 F150 4.6. Just replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and spark plugs. Replaced rubber grommet on brake booster as it was leaking vacuum.
Truck is still running rough hesitating.
Pulled codes came up as PO141 oxygen sensor heater circuit. PO171 passenger side cylinders running lean. Fuel trim outside limits.
Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
View 12 RepliesJust got a 98 f150 w/ 5.4 4x4 excab. It idles fine but under light accleration. It starts bucking and missing bad, if I step on it, it down shifts and accelerates fine. If I try to maintain one speed it misses bad. It is not throwing any codes right now. The check engine light did come on for like a minute but went back off before I could have it read. I hooked up a scanner just to see if any codes were stored and got p0300 and p0301. I am going to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks. I hear the rear plug and coils can get water in them causing similar problems.
View 8 Replies