I have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
View 2 RepliesThis 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
View 4 RepliesThere are two issues with my 1994 Volvo 940 (automatic). They may or may not be related, but that is why I'm asking.
1) When the engine is cold and at a stop sign the engine will rev up and down. After the engine warms up, the issue goes away.
2) Also when the engine is cold, when taking off from a stop the car doesn't seem to want to go.
You can mash the gas all the was down and it just kind of slowly gains speed. Eventually (5-10 seconds) it will act like normal and go and shift fine. I hope that is enough info and makes sense. I'm just trying to see what the problem could be and how to fix it.
My daughter has a 2000 accent , SOHC 12V, I think it's the 1.5L.. It will not stay running when the engine is cold...........after it warms up, or if it sits in the hot sun it's fine................it has 166K .
She said she took it to an auto parts store and had the engine code read, p1123 came up.....
Code P1123 : Long term fuel trim, at idle - mixture too rich..
What do you think this is caused by................ the inlet air temp sensor? I was told someone just replaced the air max flow sensor, that don't sound correct to me, but that's what they called it....probably the MAF sensor....
I have a ford fiesta that first of all started off stuttering/loss of power and now wont stay running when the engine is cold ...... 1.4 54 plate ....
View 4 RepliesOur 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 2 RepliesA minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
Having a problem with the hatchback not staying up in cold weather? It's fine as soon as the temp gets over 40 degrees or so. It's a Volvo.....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 volvo s40 ion a cold day when i start car and take off it bogs, there is no pep it seems like its struggling, after a couple minutes of driving she is back to normal. I replaced spark plugs - no difference...
View 5 RepliesCan not get MIL light to stay off and car will not pass state inspection. After hooking up laptop to my 96 850GLT and using VOL-FCR the EFI-445 code comes up and also states Pulsed Secondary Air Injection System Pump Signal. Everything seems to be working properly (relays, pump etc.) and vacuum pressure around 18. I have replaced the upstream O2 sensor as my OBD II scanner said that was the problem but after that the scanner was pretty much useless as it lead me in a hundred different areas to check and is getting costly so got the VOL-FCR.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1996 Ford Taurus. With the headlight in the OFF position and the ignition off, key OUT, the headlights stay on. All other lights are off. The highbeam indicator in the cluster stays on also. I've disconnected the headlight switch (completely removed from vehicle), and the headlights still stay ON! I know absolutely nothing about this car.
View 7 RepliesI have a 95 VW Corrado VR6. The indications are that the vehicle will turn over and increase RPM when ignition is turned over. When RPM goes down to idle it continues to zero and dies. If I press the accelerator while starting the car the same thing happens. This originally happened back in October and I did not get it fix or looked at until early April. The shop I took it to replaced the battery and it started right up. I then drove it off and on for about 3 weeks (low speed/no freeway and no more than 1 hour in duration) and then it started doing the exact same thing. That day I had driven home from work which is only about 3 miles. Several hours later I needed to move the car and it started and I moved it 40 feet or so. I then decided I didn't like my parking job and tried to start the car again and it would not start. I am thinking a faulty alternator but not sure if it would fail like this.
View 1 RepliesIts a 1996 vw gti 2.0 it wont stay running. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, distributor cap. itll crank but wont start. if i give it gas it will start. but you have to stay on the gas to keep it running. when you let off the gas, it dies right away. Could it be the mass air flow sensor?
View 2 RepliesI have a 96 prelude that wont stay in 5th gear cant even hold it in...
View 13 RepliesRecently replaced alternator on Volvo 240 dl (covered under warranty). Battery checked numerous times and comes back as working perfectly fine. For some reason the battery is not taking a charge from the alternator or something is draining the battery too fast for the alternator to charge the battery. Regardless, after driving the car to and from the car either will not start (but jump starts instantly).
Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
My 96 cherokee 4.o is having trouble. the motor is cranking but will not stay running unless i am pouring gas directly into the butterfly valve. it runs great while i am pouring gas into it, but it sputters out and dies once i stop. i checked to pressure in the fuel rail and gas will come out of the valve however the pressure gauge doesn't have any response. it feels like the fuel pump.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1996 Corolla DX with an auto transmission which has a few issues I would like to fix. The biggest issue is that sometimes it stays stuck at high RPMs (somewhere near 3,100) without changing gears which makes me have to give it some extra torque momentarily to change gear and drive at normal RPMs. But sometimes it does the opposite, when slowing down it sometimes stays at a higher gear and won't change to a lower gear until I've slowed down almost to a stop.
Another issue is that it is very slow to accelerate, it just feels real heavy and I regularly have to give it a lot of torque just to be at equal speed with the rest of the cars on the road, does this have a fix? Other than that there isn't any major issue that I actually know about, for this reason I'd like to know what place you would recommend me taking my car to get a full checkup to find any issues I don't know about.