Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
View 2 RepliesResurrecting my 940 TD after it's been sitting for a year and the temperature needle now doesn't rise as the engine warms up. Is there any trouble with sensors on these or should i be concerned about something else? It was working when I stopped using the car.
View 3 RepliesIt stop working for a while but i want it to work now. The needle is frozen in the middle and wont move for shizz. Is it something electrical or should i buy a new gauge? I found some gauges for the 740 so I thought to ask first before buying it.
View 3 RepliesI just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
This 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
Last night while driving I saw the needle at zero and was surprised because I refilled a few days earlier, there was also no warning light to refuel the car. When reached home turned the car off and then on and the needle moved in position.
It happened again this evening and restart cured it ... only for the gauge to fail again while driving. The fuel-to-empty indicator was not showing any distance.
So yesterday I was driving home from work.. I know my tank was 3/4 full. All of a sudden, my low fuel light came on and my gas gauge needle went to empty.
The needle sits at E, but it still says about 20 miles till empty on the MFD. When I left the house this morning, it said 5miles till empty.. by the time I got to work, it said 20. Kinda odd..
I will hook up the vagcom when I get home tonight, any area I should scan for? or just a complete scan? There is no CEL error on the dash though. What I could look at to fix this?
I own a 2000 echo. Anyways, the fuel gauge reads 3/8 of a tank. It does not matter how full or empty the tank is the gauge needle does not move. I have replaced the sender with a new ND unit and swapped out the cluster. I have also checked for loose/broken wires and bad contacts. Nothing I have done so far has worked. What else should I be looking for?
View 7 RepliesA few days ago my 98 Cutlass had to be towed because of a broken brake line. It was towed 35 miles to my mechanic. Two fuel lines needed to be replaces and i guess it was a real problem getting to stuff to fix. When I picked the car up tonight I noticed that the fuel gauge didn't work right. When the key is off the needle points straight down toward the floor. when I turn on the ignition, the needle moves up and pins itself against the little metal pin below the "E" and can't go any higher. The only cause I can think of is that the needle bounced over the pin while it was being towed and when I turn on the ignition it tries to move to where it is supposed to but is stopped by the pin. The only way I can think of to fix this is to turn the car upside down and rotate it counterclockwise until the needle moves back over the pin.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Buick LeSabre Limited, and everything was going fine with it till recently. The Fuel gauge started to go haywire as in the needle would go to full, then go back down to a Quarter, then back to 3/4, then drop all the way down to Empty, this is still occurring. At first I believed it to be the fuel level sensor, but then I started to notice something else.
A warning message came on stating that the oil level was too low, but when I checked the oil level it was fine, and last night when I was driving with the air conditioner on, I hit a bump and the air conditioner stopped working. I pushed the off button, and was successfully able to make the air conditioner to come back on with out having to restart the car.
The horn has also started to go in and out, and I do not know if they are all linked together by a type of computer or if they are separate.
So I just got a 96 850 GLT sedan knowing it had some work to be done. Gas gauge, odo, and trip don't function. Its not yet on the road but next week when it is registered I'm hoping to have this fixed.
Now the gas gauge does go all the way down when car is off, but when started it barely gets off E. The low fuel light goes on only sometimes. The trip is stuck on 0 and the odo stuck as well. Without these 3 working no way of knowing fuel level.
Also the guy I bought it from said after he did the brakes the ABS and trac off lights came on. they did go off for like 5 mins on the ride home but came back on. I switched from economy to sport mode on the way(don't know if that is related). The service light comes on and off as it pleases. The thing needs new cv joints as well! I'm hoping this is all I find!
Four days into it the low tire pressure indicator lights up. Hit the reset, checked the tires, deflated some air and filled back up, etc and the indicator is still on. Even my local shop couldn't fix it. So yesterday I'm driving home and the fuel gauge suddenly stops registering, the needle drops below the red empty line. This morning I start it up and the fuel gauge is working, for about a minute, then it drops again. Same situation after stopping to get a cup of coffee. I'm taking it to a dealer today. Think the problem could be a defective speedo gauge cluster?
View 8 RepliesI just filled up my gas tank and when I turned on my car the gas light turned on and the needle read empty. But before I put gas, the gas light wasn't on yet and. Was at 1/4 of a tank. Maybe I filled it up too much and it'll resolve itself after the gas goes down?
It's a 10.5 if it matters.
Got to work this morning, sitting at idle for a few minutes in parking lot, all of a sudden fuel gauge needle drops to below 'E' and the fuel light comes on and beeps. I know I have at least 1/2 tank of fuel. What would cause this?
View 3 RepliesFuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
View 1 RepliesI recently bought this car in its current no start condition after sitting 3 years. Initially I jumped it off and it just cranked, no attempt to start and no noise from either fuel pump.
I checked the fuses and the fuel pump relay behind/under the radio and it clicked and was dated 2006 so it had been replaced. I assumed it was replaced when the under car fuel pump was replaced at it was a replacement.
I sprayed a little starting fluid and it fired right up and ran until used up.
I ordered both pumps and strainer and installed the under car pump earlier this week. The in tank pump and strainer looked horrible and original. There was a small issue with the return line on the in tank fuel pump sending unit when I removed it that required brazing which I got back from the shop today.
This afternoon I installed the in tank pump & strainer on the sending unit and installed all that stuff. I spliced in a quick disconnect in the wiring harness for easy separation/installation next time.
Jumped the car again [yeah needs a battery] after everything was hooked back up and no in tank pump heard with key on to prime several times and no start although I hear the under car pump quit after attempting to start and they turned off.
Is there any other fuse/relay to check? If the under car fuel pump is evidently working, wouldn't it pull fuel without the in tank pump coming on? There's about 3 gallons in the tank. I'm going to test if there's current to the in tank pump tomorrow.
I have a VOLVO S40 with mileage of about 122,000 km, engine and transmission models were B4204S, MPS6. The car water temperature suddenly down during driving. Connect the VIDA DICE to read the relevant fault codes, just only one: "ECM-0118 engine coolant temperature sensor, signal is too high, B420S3 0" according to the fault code, the least can exclude network CAN line, because in the communication control unit.
View 1 RepliesWe are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
View 1 RepliesI am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a '97 Volvo 850 sedan. It is not a turbo. It starts up fine. It goes in reverse fine. It accelerates to about 10-15 mph fine. But when I accelerate faster than that, the rpm's go up and the car coasts. After about 20 minutes the car drives fine and it doesn't rev high. How to find what need replacing?
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