I changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and Porsche Piwis Tester II a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
View 1 RepliesI changed the mass air flow sensor. And ordered a throttle position sensor I have check engine light with code p1505. This only started when I had the muffler pipe fixed and had a patch put on a leak now idle jumps up&down.
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Is there any way I can raise or lower the temperature without turning on the fan speed? For example if I want to raise the temperature from 68 to 72, I literally have to hit the "Lo" speed and then raise the temp.
View 1 RepliesIs it possible to slightly raise the Idle speed of our R32s?
And if so, how is it done?
Is there a procedure with Vagcom?
I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
View 1 RepliesI noticed a cyclical vibration in my '96 Volvo 960. The cycle shortens with increased speed, and specifically at 85 mph it would swell to a peak and then smooth out to disappear over ten seconds. It's not real noticeable, steering wheel slightly shakes and you can feel it in your feet. At 80 mph it was about a 15 second cycle. Any thoughts?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1996 volvo 850 when ever its cold outside my engine doesnt wanna start. when it cranks it doesnt stay going it idles down then stalls. What to look for or why its doing this?
View 2 RepliesI have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
View 3 RepliesSo I just got a 96 850 GLT sedan knowing it had some work to be done. Gas gauge, odo, and trip don't function. Its not yet on the road but next week when it is registered I'm hoping to have this fixed.
Now the gas gauge does go all the way down when car is off, but when started it barely gets off E. The low fuel light goes on only sometimes. The trip is stuck on 0 and the odo stuck as well. Without these 3 working no way of knowing fuel level.
Also the guy I bought it from said after he did the brakes the ABS and trac off lights came on. they did go off for like 5 mins on the ride home but came back on. I switched from economy to sport mode on the way(don't know if that is related). The service light comes on and off as it pleases. The thing needs new cv joints as well! I'm hoping this is all I find!
196 Volvo 850 T ,,, When I open my gas cap, (when the tank is almost empty), I hear a WOOSHING sound, LIKE AIR IS RUSHING INTO A VACUUM. Is that normal?Then, here's the PROBLEM: right after I fill up my gas tank (when it was almost empty), I drive a minute (more or less) and my engine STALLS and SHUTS OFF (as if can't get enough gas). The ENGINE light comes on. I have to keep restarting it and barely reach home. It stalls in PARK and in GEAR, while I'm driving. A bag smell comes out of the exhaust. Here's the weird part: when it sits overnight, in the morning I can drive it fine, with no stalling.
It's happened three or four times. My mechanic did what he called a "MINI-tune-up" and "Perform injection clean" and "Reset system" (charged almost $700) BUT THIS DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. When I brought the car back to him, he said he did not know what was wrong with it, but I should bring the car to him when the gas was almost empty so he could fill it and see what happens. So why did he charge me $700 if he didn't fix what I asked him to fix??What should I do?
I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one. [URL]......
I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost.
My 1996 Volvo 850 has a relatively new battery but every few weeks it will go completely dead. A typical situation is this: the car will start fine and we will go to a restaurant but when we come out the battery is so dead that the digital clock is off and the radio pre-sets are lost. The shop has done a lot of diagnostics and replaced the alternator but the problem persists. They have determined that the battery is fine and the current drain when the car is off is within normal specs. And, yes, they have disconnected the light in the glove box. They have done everything they can think of but because the problem is so intermittent it is proving impossible to track down.
View 2 Replies1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 850 glt .... As it is an Automatic, we don't rely on the handbrake to hold the car when parked as where we live is flat etc, but still use it.
Near side rear is fine, Off side rear refuses to work. I have a 1995 t5 that is currently in dry dock so can use for parts etc.
Adjusted up the brake shoes both sides with handbrake released by adjusting to locked on and backing off about 4 clicks. Then adjusted the lever so it gave me about 4-5 clicks before fully on.
NSR works as it should, OSR has had cable, shoes, caliper, disk replaced (all work as they should as individual items)and handbrake still not working.
Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
View 2 RepliesThis 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
1 have a 1996 Volvo 850 GLT wagon with the following problems and issues. Should I pay to get the major issues fixed, or use the money towards another car? This is my second car, it gets driven on a once-a-week basis, and I would probably replace it with another 10-year younger Volvo wagon or similar. * Check Engine light with "incorrect ratio" code - my mechanic suggests replacing the speed sensor, flushing the transmission, and hoping for the best; will cost at least a couple hundred dollars. Web searches turn up PnP replacement might fix this.
slow battery drain - replaced the battery harness as per Volvo's instructions, but there is still a slow battery drain that kills the battery in a few days, which I cannot diagnose. If I want to use the car, I make sure the battery is charged the night before. Unknown cost to permanently fix - solar panel in the front window?
odometer broken - the odometer broke at 125 K, the car has approximately 130 K miles on it. Mechanic estimates fixing the odometer is $500. due for a new timing belt - Last timing belt change was at 52 K; mechanic estimates $800 after doing "everything they like to do at this time, like the water pump." various and sundry broken interior cosmetic panels Should I do the repairs and hope to get to 160 K miles, or put the money towards a new car?
My 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon died in the middle of the freeway last night without any warning...I was driving it home after purchasing it from a private seller who is completely ignoring me now (of course). The car ran fine on the test drive and fine for the 40 or 50 miles on the way back home and then suddenly stepping on the gas did nothing and I had to get off the road immediately. I'm 8 months pregnant so needless to say, I was extremely freaked out.
Anyways, I had it towed home. Today I went out and started it and it was a little bit hesitant but it started. The RPMs were bouncing around below 1000 and the car sounded like it wanted to stall but didn't.
I read online to start it and turn the AC on see what the RPMs do and that this can diagnose an idle control valve that needs replacing. I went out and started the car again, blasted the AC and now the RPMs were staying steady at 1000 and the car no longer sounded like it was about to stall. The RPMs did shoot up passed 2000 once shortly after turning the AC on. I'm assuming this must mean that the idle control valve needs to be replaced.
Someone else had posted about their car (same model/year as mine) would die unexpectedly and in their case it turned out to be the mass air flow sensor. I am really wondering about the fuel pump, fuel pump sensor / relay.
I have a 1996 Volvo 960. The turn signal light on the right side of the car stays on at all times. Left blinker works. Hazards come on but dont blink. I have checked all bulbs and replaced any that did not look perfect. Did not fix problem. Next I checked all the fuses related to any lights. No fuses blown or damaged. I am now to the point where I would like to first replace the flasher relay and if that doesnt work I will replace the hazard switch.
I am under the belief that the flasher relay is behind the ashtray, and I have it pulled apart to gain a visual. I have referenced several sites to find a diagram for the relays but most are of the 840 model or of the 960 prior to 1994. My relays are NOT on one panel behind the ashtray...they are on two... one on each side of the center hump. Each must be accessed by removing the panels under the dash. Since I am unable to find a diagram or picture of the relay panels for the 1996 960 I am stuck and unsure which one should be pulled and tested or replaced.