Volvo :: 1996 850 GLT - Gas Gauge And Odometer Malfunction
Oct 8, 2011
So I just got a 96 850 GLT sedan knowing it had some work to be done. Gas gauge, odo, and trip don't function. Its not yet on the road but next week when it is registered I'm hoping to have this fixed.
Now the gas gauge does go all the way down when car is off, but when started it barely gets off E. The low fuel light goes on only sometimes. The trip is stuck on 0 and the odo stuck as well. Without these 3 working no way of knowing fuel level.
Also the guy I bought it from said after he did the brakes the ABS and trac off lights came on. they did go off for like 5 mins on the ride home but came back on. I switched from economy to sport mode on the way(don't know if that is related). The service light comes on and off as it pleases. The thing needs new cv joints as well! I'm hoping this is all I find!
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1 have a 1996 Volvo 850 GLT wagon with the following problems and issues. Should I pay to get the major issues fixed, or use the money towards another car? This is my second car, it gets driven on a once-a-week basis, and I would probably replace it with another 10-year younger Volvo wagon or similar. * Check Engine light with "incorrect ratio" code - my mechanic suggests replacing the speed sensor, flushing the transmission, and hoping for the best; will cost at least a couple hundred dollars. Web searches turn up PnP replacement might fix this.
slow battery drain - replaced the battery harness as per Volvo's instructions, but there is still a slow battery drain that kills the battery in a few days, which I cannot diagnose. If I want to use the car, I make sure the battery is charged the night before. Unknown cost to permanently fix - solar panel in the front window?
odometer broken - the odometer broke at 125 K, the car has approximately 130 K miles on it. Mechanic estimates fixing the odometer is $500. due for a new timing belt - Last timing belt change was at 52 K; mechanic estimates $800 after doing "everything they like to do at this time, like the water pump." various and sundry broken interior cosmetic panels Should I do the repairs and hope to get to 160 K miles, or put the money towards a new car?
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Have 1996 850 Turbo sedan. When tank is full the gas gauge needle will only go up 2/3 of the way, when nearing empty, needle is below red line. Gas light does work. Can I just remove instrum. Cluster and manually turn needle to top (after a fill up)? If not can I just replace the gauge/motor behind panel or do I have to replace instrument cluster?
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I have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl 5 spd. I've only had it for a month or so, but I've noticed on cold mornings my odometer won't work. The trip or the total mileage. I can hear the odometer cable clicking. Once the cab gets warmed up it'll start working. It's only happened twice, at about 50 degrees or lower, so I can only imagine what'll happen once winter kicks in. Where to go from here? I was thinking maybe it needs to be re-lubed or something...
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My new to me 96 4x2 4.0 automatic Explorer has a working speedometer, but the odometer, and trip meeter are not working. I used the search, but found nothing. What should I be looking for to fix this problem?
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I have a 1991 740 Wagon with ~153,000 miles. I say approximately, because the speedometer, the odometer, and cruise control stopped working. My mechanic says it is the sensor loctated on the differential, I believe he said.
2 questions: My local Volvo junkyard has gone out of business; where is a good place online to get used parts? and second, .is sensor difficult to replace? I can fix things that are easy.
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My odometer has quit working but sometimes will run a few miles. The truck has about 100,000 miles on it and the speedometer works fine.
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I have a 2002 Prius, and I have been struggling trying to get it fix. But it's either one thing to the next without completely knowing what's what. Recently, the right front bearing and the left rear bearing, both front struts/shocks, right balljoint, and two front brakes were replaced.
Before these replacements, I had a P1436 code for the valve which was lube but nothing happened. Then after replacing the front struts/shocks, turn the car on for a test drive, brake light and check engine light came on, speed odometer it not working. I used the OBII scanner from autozone and got P0500 said: vehicle speed sensor A malfunction.
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My speedometer is jumpy, odometer quit working at same time. Shifts kinda hard going into 2nd and 3rd gear. I am at wits end. I have replaced both speed sensors, checked all fuses, and also tore dash apart checking the worm gear in the cluster. I don't want to take to the ford dealer. The truck got 172,000 on it but been very well maintained. I just don't think its the transmission. Its got to be something easy.
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I have an erratic fuel gauge. I have to reset odometer at every gas fill up to keep track of mileage. Need to replace the unit but I tried the GM Fuel treatment Plus in the gas tank first.
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All those 4 problems, abs light on, brake light on, odometer gauge fluctuate, temp gauge fluctuate and air conditioner stop working, all happen simultaneously. They can also recover and work altogether again for a bit a time, and then all car runs good and after some time it happens again. Quite inconsistent.
Its toyota camry 2007,v4 , 95K miles on it.
Here is how it looks, another person just recorded here : [URL]...
Went to Toyota, they diagnosed the following codes:
c121
c2177
c0205
c0215
U0073
Can it be done more economical or better way to do it. Also while the ABS unit is at fault and car is running perfectly fine with the brakes working as expected, is there any issue having the car to be used in the meantime it will be fixed.
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Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
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My fuel pump went bad on my 2.2 96 S-10 so I bought and installed a AC Delco MU1781 which is supposed to be the newer style pump for this application. It came with a new pigtail connector which I spliced into my vehicle harness.
So I install the pump, everything works great. Then I go to fill up the tank with 18 gallons of fuel and my dash gauge is only at about 3/4 fuel. It will not go up to half. I thought it was kinda strange when I poured in 5 gallons initially and I was barely off of empty.
So I took the pump back out and when the float is flat I get 1.5 ohms resistance. At the full position its about 90 ohms. Is this the correct range for the s-10? My Alldata subscription does not give ohm values for the sending unit. Can any one chime in or have other had issues with the MU1781?
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I just bought a 06 F250 King Ranch and the information center on the gauge cluster just shows the current odometer reading. When I press the information button that is supposed to toggle between trip mileage and avg mpg just the odometer shows. This truck was vandalized (bought from auction) so I am wondering does it have a XL cluster so I am asking are all the clusters different between XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, etc and I have the wrong one installed or maybe there is an issues with my information center.
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My 96 Passat GLX-VR6 Wagon is blowing a white smoke that smells like maple syrup if I do any temp adjustments on my AC. It's also not blowing any cool or cold air in the coldest setting. Any thoughts? Heater Core? Just need freon?
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I have some problems with my 2001 Volvo V70 about its light sensors and tailgate sensor.
Starting from this spring, every time when I turned the right-turn signal light on, the bulb fail message will pop up in the dashboard even though there is no bulb failing. Also, it starts to state that my tailgate is not closed while I drive it during the sunny day.. (That means, it will become normal during the raining day...) The problem that accompanies with the tailgate issue is the cargo light sensor malfunctioning. Sometimes it light up all the day while driving, sometimes will not turn-on at all; but sometimes work normal during the raining day.
What could be the core of these problems? I don't want to take it to the repair shop for a whole day, and still can not find out the issue..
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I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
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2 days ago, our 1996 G20'S sun roof slid open as normal. Unfortunately It would not slide back to a closed position. The roof's motor can be heard running when both switches are depressed (for either function) ; sliding and tilting. The roof will no longer do either function. I was able to pull the sun roof closed by hand but could not make the back edge of the glass rise up to be sealed closed completely. Obviously it became disengaged from the motor somehow. Would it be somewhat possible for me to get inside of the roof to hook it all back together/replace parts ? Is the location of the motor behind the sunroof control panel?
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I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
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