Volvo :: 1995 850 - ABS Light On And Gear Locked At Parking Position
Feb 7, 2015
This morning I drove the car for about 40 mins and everything was fine.
In the afternoon, I tried to start the car. Just found the ABS light was on and the gear was locked at the parking position. I couldn't push down the small button that releases the gear. Of course I was pressing the brake pad when I did this, but it seemed like the system did NOT know it, so it wouldn't allow me to change the gear. I tried several times but no luck.
At night, I tried again. This time the ABS light was off and the gear moved as normal.
I have the feeling that it's due to some sensor, but not sure. What shall I do to make sure this won't happen.
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Mine is a 2015 ES350. I drove it normally on last Friday. Today Monday morning, the car can't be started. Other symptoms are no any lights, stiff brake, shift locked in parking position, no clank with a jump starter.
The battery connection is tight; I also tried both keys and holding it right next to the start button. It seems like the car system is shut down.
I may call AAA to tow to dealer. However, the shift is in parking mode. Is there any way I can override the shift to N?
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Today my driver side seat belt got locked in the retracted position for no reason. I drove the truck to work, no issues with the seat belt, but when I got in to go get some lunch, I went to put the belt on and it moves about 2-3 inches out of the retractor and locks.
The other issue I'm having, is that I can't get the retractor cover off to see if theres something inside locking the belt or if it is going to need to be replaced.
How to get the cover off and if possible, fix the belt without replacing it.
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I noticed that there is no parking light position on the headlight switch, so how does the headlight switch work? Either all OFF or all on? Or is the on position really "auto"
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What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
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I have a 1995 Bonneville with about 160k miles. I have a problem with the PARKING light on the dash coming on, accompanied by a chime. This happens fairly consistently after first starting the car and driving off, or after coming to a full stop (e.g., stop sign) and then pulling away again. The light and chime come on for only 5 or 10 seconds before stopping all on it's own. One suggestion was that the parking brake pedal was sagging, but pulling up on the pedal does nothing (it's up all the way and doesn't budge). I've also read that a leaking master cylinder may cause the light and alarm to activate, but I can't see any evidence of leaks when I examine the MC.
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Starting here to ask first but I currently have the CEL and VSC light both lit and 1st gear is locked out. What is causing this without having the codes read yet? Is it common to get both of these lights simultaneously? Having 1st gear locked out seems very concerning from a mechanical aspect to me, should I have it parked till I get it serviced?
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Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-3. I tried starting it this morning but the key won't move from the locked position at all! What should I do? The steering wheel doesn't seem to be locked and I had the battery changed not to long ago.
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My manual transmission 1995 Jeep Cherokee today refused to go into any gear after I had stopped for a light. After pushing it to the side of the road I was about to call AAA when it went into gear and worked perfectly thereafter. This happened once before about a month ago. What could be the problem and how likely am I to get stuck for good?
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I have a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter in line 6.tilt steering wheel is lock in one position. The handle that you release to move the steering wheel up or down don't have any tension on it.
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I have an '08 T2 and this issue may be unique to this new version of the Touareg. Here's the deal...
Let's say I am driving at 30 MPH on city streets. When I apply the brake, I "feel" what I would describe as periodic engine braking occurring simultaneously. I also experience this periodically in all sorts of driving situations when I am not accelerating. In other words, the truck doesn't always just coast freely. This "feeling" doesn't really slow the truck, it's just a feeling like some sort of resistance is taking place. I have also described it as a hum but it's only slightly audible.
I am in DRIVE with the A/C running . I have 800 miles now but it's been happening since I picked up the truck. Oh - no, the parking brake is not on and the differential is not locked.
When I took my truck in to have the CD changer installed, I tried to describe this to the tech. They ultimately said it is probably one or more of the various pumps. It was also suggested that it may be the A/C compressor but I haven't been able to determine that it truly the case.
I am becoming so frustrated with this that I am considering going to another VW dealer in a friend's car to test drive another T2 and see what it does. I need to figure out if this is just something a T2 does or mine is screwed up.
Again, there have been so many changes in the 2008 model so it may be unique to this new design. Unfortunately, they just came out so I don't know how many owners are out there yet.
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I can't get the trunk to open while the car is locked from a normal standing position. I used to be able to, but now I have to rub up against my car to open it. gotta hump the back of my gti to open trunk... its been 3 months. is the key already dead?
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The drivers side Hub seems to be stuck in Locked Position. I lifted the Wheel and when I turn it the Front Drive shaft turns and you can feel a fair amount of resistance.
I lifted the Passenger side and it spins free. I then started it and put it in 4WD and the passenger side engaged and i could not free spin the wheel. I then lifted the drivers side again and it would not spin. Turned off 4WD and it spun again but moved the shaft.
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Hit a puddle-now car is stuck in 3rd gear... with parking brake fault light lit up. How to fix it? it happened on the highway on the way to work at 70mph . so now i either have to drive home with it the rpms at 4k or get it towed. Car is a 2006 passat with 35000 miles.
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I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with 190,000 miles. When I turn on the a/c after about 10 minutes the drive light blinks and the speedometer stops working and the odometer stop working also. So I have been unhooking the battery and it resets everything and the light works as well as the speedometer and odometer. I have about 2,000 miles on a new cylinder head and timing belt water pump, and battery and cables, which was quite expensive and I am wondering if its worth even fixing but there is absolutely no rust and I love the vehicle 28 mpg mini van can't beat.
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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I have a '99 S70 (Front wheel drive) Volvo. I went to drive it and the rear tires are locked into place and do not turn!
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Just started recently on my 2007 Camry. The doors lock by themselves several minutes after I park it in the garage.
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My 2004 Accent is stuck in the "lock" position in the ignition, and the wheel is locked and barely turns in either direction. I know this is supposed to be an anti-theft feature and I've tried all of the solutions listed here...
Turning the wheel hard and soft in either direction while holding the brake all the way down and trying to turn the key. Putting the car in neutral and then park and trying the above Disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and trying the above Jacking the car up on one side to release the tension on the pin.
My question is can I remove the spring at the bottom of the locking pin by drilling a hole in the center of the plate? I've seen a few youtube videos of this done on BMW's. It will cost me $500 minimum to replace the ignition or steering column based on quotes I got.
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Came home after a run to mcdonalds in my chysler and the 1997 dodge caravan that we own was in driveway running with parking lights on the van doors locked.
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