I have a 1994 volvo 940 turbo, the transmission has been fine, but today out of nowhere the car will not rev past 2500rpm. But only when its in drive, if i drop it to 1st or 2nd it will rev fine?
View 1 RepliesMy 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
View 4 RepliesThe past summer my 1994 Volvo 940 non-turbo over heated and we worked on the coolant system and got it working god again. However just after we fixed it the headlights blew out and we replaced them and then they blew out again. The battery was also going dead when the car was turned off and all electric things were turned off. Now the head lights don't blow but once they are turned on with the switch in the car they cant be turned off unless the battery is disconnected.
Also as of now none of the dash board instruments are working. With the car on and the lights turned on we pulled the connector to the switch that turns on the lights, that is on the dashboard, and the lights still stayed on. We can only think that some water may be causing the problem but it may or may not. I need to know how to fix the headlight problem and the instrument panel.
I have a 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo wagon. I just started having issues with the brakes lights and taillights not working. I have checked all the fuses visually and also did a continuity test on each one found all the fuses were good. I have replaced the all the relays, I have replaced the large red relay ( bulb failure relay ) and even did a continuity check on the bulb failure relay pins that are specifically for the rear brake light, everything checked out fine. I hesitate to change the brake light switch because the third brake light is working fine. I have considered replacing the headlight switch due to the taillights won't come on when the lights switch is on. My headlights do work though. There is no light on the dash indicating a bulb is out now since I replaced the third brake light bulb.
1994 Volvo 940 wagon
Non turbo
My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
View 11 RepliesI drive a 2005 Kia Rio with 48,000 miles. Every once in awhile (particularly after a bit of driving when everything is warmed up) the RPM won't go past 2,500. I'll put it in 1st gear, accelerate till 2,500, but as soon as it gets there, the engine gets groggy, the car slows down, and I have to quickly switch to 2nd and repeat the cycle on every gear. Flooring it makes it worse.
Obviously the fastest I can possibly go with this happening is about 50mph on 5th (just below 2,500). This has happened three times and it has fixed itself every time so far.
A possible clue may be that the check engine light frequently comes on, and its always the same culprit: this "flow meter" sensor. I've had it replaced three times now, but it still always trips the engine light. I now just ignore the check engine light.
I've been getting a blinking engine check light.. I pulled all the codes:
P0050: H02S Bank 2 Sen 1 Heater Circuit
P0155: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sen 1
P0304: cylinder 4 Misfire detected
P0688: ECM/PCM Power relay sensor circuit
I've had the car sitting for awhile because I lost my job and didn't have any money to roll it around much.
I just changed out the spark plugs and two of these had a white coating on them.. I was hoping this would take care of the misfire after I replaced them. I also bought a new battery because mine had lost charge a few times.
The Car will run with an engine check light, but if I go past 2500-3000 rpms then it will start blinking (which means don't drive it )
The oil has been sitting in it for about 2 months, so I'm about to go change that and I'm hoping this will allow me to drive it without issues.
Any of these codes thrown and know what they could be? Which O2 sensor (like a link to a website that sells them). Trying to get this thing running again.
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
What are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesStarts great, idles great, tested everything. Will not rev past 1500rpm.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detente. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn.
Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years.
I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!?
When my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesEngine runs fine while in park but if put into drive rpm's won't get above 2500 then begins to choke.
-Fuel filter changed
-no vacuum leaks
-disconnected cat
-good spark
I just got my ISF 3 weeks ago and this issue got me pretty worried. I would like to hear if there has been a recall or a fix on this issue. While in Drive (D), the tranny wouldn't shift past 2nd for a couple of seconds. It went as high as 4.5RMP and wouldn't shift, the RPM kept going up. Letting go off the gas did not work, the RMP just stood where it was and slowly decreased with the speed. This lasted for a few seconds. I must admit that I was just pulling out of the driveway and she wasn't properly warmed up (16 degrees temp or 60fh)...
View 7 Replies2000 Saturn L Series Station Wagon 73,772 miles
The Check Engine Soon light was on this morning but when on highway today and at 70MPH the Service light came on and then the Reduced Power light.
Couldn't drive past 5MPH but when I turned the key off and back on the power returned but the tranny was Slamming into gears. I made it back home but where to go from here.
2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
I recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
View 7 Replies94 850 turbo will randomly smoke like crazy at which time it fills the car with smoke completely fogs whatever street you're on.
View 1 RepliesIt starts and idles fine and drives fine until the turbo spools and gets past atmospheric.. at this point the acceleration gets worse even though you can clearly hear the turbo blowing (gauge well into the yellow).. checked the ground connections on the head and intake, seemed good, replaced tps, replaced knock sensor, replaced hall sensor, tried another ecu, checked cam timing. Had a volvo mechanic friend looking at it prior to my fiddling with it and he seemed to think the ignition timing was retarded too much.. but I've done everything i can think of to tackle that problem.
View 3 Replies760 turbo intercooler 2.3 4-speed auto. It will not idle properly but when you run it around town it is fine, smooth and powerful. If you take it out on the motorway it will be ok for speeds up to 55 (lumpy going uphill) if you push it over 70 it is ok, but between 55 and 70 it is rough and sort of misses without backfiring. Also a cloud of black smoke comes out of the exhaust. If you kick it down to 3rd it will go like a rocket and not miss at all!! It has been seen by the RAC and been in the garage and they say everything is working, but can't check the air flowmeter as it would cost too much to buy one and it works fine.
View 3 RepliesI have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.