Volvo :: 1993 Vehicle Running Hot / Shaking While Braking
Jul 21, 2013
First off, vehicle is a 1993 Volvo 240, 5 speed with 131,000 miles
1) Temperature gauge is reading hot, but I believe it's running at a normal temperature. I read a few things discussing this issue. First off, a yellow wire that runs through the firewall becomes corroded (as do all Volvo wires of this age!) What exactly is this wire and what does it lead to? Could I just rerun that wire with possibly a thicker gauge? My dads an electrician so no worries with the wiring. More commonly, however; I read that the temperature compensation board fails and gives erratic readings! is this board expensive and how difficult is it to replace? I have experience with this dashboard because I rebuilt my odometer and installed a tachometer, that gives you my basic level of expertise.
2) My passenger side rear fog light won't work, a new bulb didn't fix the problem, what could it be?
3) My car shakes kind of vigorously while braking, especially at LOW speed!? I replaced front pads and rotors, what else could the problem be?
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I have a 95 940 turbo that shakes really bad when braking. things I have done so far are.
1. Replaced all four rotors.
2. Replaced all four callipers.
3. Replaced sway bar control arms.
The shaking is so bad that the gear shift moves back and forth when braking.
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I'm having an issue with my 93 Grand Cherokee with 193k miles.
The RPMs will fluxuate and even drop to 0 at times and the whole Jeep with shudder and shake and then the RPMs will return back to normal. It could just drop down once, or several times in a row. I've even had it completely die a few times and I'll have to restart it. It's the worst when idling or driving slowly, like through a drive through or a parking lot, but the Jeep will still give a small jerk at times during acceleration as if it's trying to do it but can't completely.
I know next to nothing about cars but I have a friend who has assisted me with few things. We changed the fuel filter which he said looked like it may have been the stock fuel filter. He hooked up his compressor and blew all kinds of black garbage out of it and concluded it definitely needed a new one. He told me just to run it and see how it did, which it did fine for awhile but today it seemed to be acting the worst ever with it shaking and shuddering and trying to die but it didn't. He also looked at the spark plugs and told me that while they were aged they didn't look bad enough to be worth the money replacing...
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We have a late year model '93 240 sedan. Brake lights are not working, we've checked all the usual suspects. We cannot locate the brake switch. It is not in the usual location under the dash. There is a bracket there for one, but it seems that this is a late year model and the switch location may have been moved? Where this is located? Would really like a schematic so we can get to the bottom of this issue! Car is obviously out of commission until brake lights work.
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My 2004 Jetta with 58.5K miles (bought new) stalled in traffic 3 weeks ago. A few seconds later I turned the key and it started OK- no stalling since. For the last 3+ years I have taken it in for shaking as if the vehicle will stall and sometimes it's close to that, especially when I come to a stop at the traffic light. This week the rubber thing I think called under tray came down. Also, the clock is off with an hour. This car usually goes to the VW dealer for service.
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I have a shake at 60-78 mph. Have had the tires balanced three times, last balance is beter. I'm thinking of switching the wheels from my 05 F250 to the 03 Excursion to verify a tire problem. Will the factory F250 17" wheels fit for the test? Both are 4x4 vehicles. The truck rides smooth.
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I was recently driving my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon over the Bourne Bridge in bumper to bumper traffic (surprise!). Traffic was moving at 3-5 mph as I navigated the rotary and ascended the bridge. Needless to say, I was developing leg cramps as traffic crawled up the steep bridge incline. Once I crested the hill, I shifted to neutral (still 3-5mph to coast down the decline and give my leg a rest. After coasting for a few minutes I attempted to shift into second gear to re-engage the transmission.
I was unable to slip the gear shift stick into any gear! I continued to make sure that I was depressing the clutch all the way to the floor, but still could not muscle the stick into a single gear (by the way, I never smelled that "burning clutch smell"). After about a minute or more of mental disaster planning, I finally coerced the shift into third gear. A minute or so later, I was able to shift into second gear which got me around the accident causing the delay and onto the highway. From that point on, I was able to shift normally for the remainder of the 2 hour trip. What happened and what could I have done to solve the problem? (The car is now at the repair shop where they are equally perplexed).
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 160,000 miles on it. The front end has been deteriorating steadily for some time now. I have no power brakes or power steering, but I do not think that this is related to my REAL problem: My driver side CV joint (or axle or whatever) failed last week. Upon inspection, my mechanic commented on how he was surprised that it held on long enough for me to get to his shop. It was replaced by a mechanic with a new (not re-manufactured) piece.Yesterday I was driving a friend to the airport about 150 miles away, and 20 miles out of town, my van began wobbling in the front, and then shaking violently - consistent with my previous CV failure.
After dropping my friend off at the airport, I proceeded to the nearest mechanic, who again commented on how he was surprised that I was able to make it to his shop. He said something about the last CV joint being too long or something against a tulip joint (or something, I should have written it down).Initially it drove smoothly, as it did after the first fix, but on the way home I noticed a slight wobble that is connected to acceleration (that is, when I take my foot off of the gas, the wobble disappears). I am concerned that the CV is going to fail again. What would be causing this? Are the mechanics at fault, or is there another problem that propagates in the CV?
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Last weekend I got the first brake job done on my mom's 2012 Camry SE which has a bit over 43K. The car was shaking upon braking at 60+ mph.
To keep it short, the pads on the vehicle were not even half way used. I wanted to re-use the pads, but I had already purchased another set (ceramic). So got those installed and re-surfaced the rotor.
My question is, can I use the original pads when I get new rotors on the next brake job?
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I have a 93 Nissan 240sx that exhibits weird electrical behavior. I've had the battery and alternator checked at two local Advance Auto Parts locations with results indicating no problems. The car starts and drives fine. Immediately after start, my automatic seatbelts are engaged and the RPMs drop to about 400 and the car shakes violently (while pressing brakes and even when not pressing brakes). RPMs drop anytime accessories are in use. When braking at a stop light, the RPMs drop and the car shakes again. Using my headlights causes the RPMs to drop but not a point where I feel shaking. The problem is worst at night when I am pulling up to my apartment complex with lights on, braking, and using my power windows to access my gate card reader. I don't know if this problem is related, but when I am listening to the radio and turn the volume all the way up, the radio keeps cuts on and off. I have a suspicion it's the grounds, but before I start tracing all my wires. I'd like to hear everyone's input. I determined it was the brake booster vacuum because it also happens when not using the brakes and pinching the line has no effect on idle.
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I have a 2000 Volvo S80 T6. I have been putting in premium gasoline ever since I got it about 5 months ago. The previous owner did the same. I called my mechanic and asked about regular gas vs premium gas. He said regular gas would do just fine. So about 4 days ago I took my car to a parking lot and had some fun in the snow. It was mainly just pulling the e-brake around corners. I hit a few snowbanks, but no visible damage to the car. Anyway, I was below a quarter of a tank (21 gal) and I filled it with regular. I drove it straight home after that less than a mile away. Now when I drive it above 40mph the entire car vibrates as a vibrating chair does. It is almost a shaking, even. At first I thought it was because of the gas, but after talking to friends, they think it could be an alignment issue due to my parking lot activities. I also just had to replace the transmission and brake lines about a month ago. What do you think is the cause and the actual problem with my car?
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Just cleaned out the oil seperator box on my 93 850, put new injector seals in and a new intake gasket. Start up the car ran rough for a little then idles like a champ. The problem-shift up indicator is blinking. Barely put my fut on the gas shifts up a gear then back down then back up, I think I unplugged something by accident.
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
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What could be the cause for a viscous fluid on the floor of the car on the driver's side. "White" smoke comes from the engine and it makes a noise. Car is a 1993 Volvo 850 stick shift.
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Recently I have noticed my 1993 Volvo 940 makes a noisewhile driving, that sounds as best I can describe as a card in a bicycle spoke;or kind of like the putt-putt sound, you hear from a large truck idling next toyou. I hear it while driving, wheneverstepping on the gas pedal, but not while idling, or when the car is in park or natural. The faster I accelerate the louder the noiseis. I want to try to trouble shoot this but I do notknow where to even begin looking into this. Maybe there's a leak somewhere.
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I have a 93 Volvo 850 N/A, there is white smoke coming out of the dipstick tube, not alot but enough, also there's like a white/ yellow foam on the dipstick tube, but the coolant has not changed, so im assuming its not a headgasket. I have cleaned out most of the vacuum lines and flame trap but cant find the pvc valve.
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2001 Hyundai Sante Fe. When braking, I get a noise and the whole vehicle shakes. Exactly as if I were driving in snow and just slammed the brakes. The feeling & noise feels and sounds the exact same as if I were sliding...
I've replaced the master cyl originally just because today is the first day the issue lasted long enough for me to fully hear//feel the whole issue. It's normally brief.
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I'm having steady oil leakage on my S60. Coming from front right of vehicle, opposite turbo side. Took it to a mechanic and they diagnosed it as an oil hose leading from engine to turbo. Replaced it and it is still leaking from the engine. Hose showed no cracks or seal problems, so that wasn't it. Mechanic is taking the axle off to see if it is an engine block crack. If it is...welding aluminum is tough, I'm told, so it might need a new engine. Car has 101,000 miles and has had no other problems before this. Not sure I want to drop that much coin on a car that is getting older.
Could there be other culprits besides the engine block being cracked? I have been looking at some forums and see that PCV lines can get clogged, leading to an increase in pressure. Others mention the oil trap being plugged, and others mention a link between the cooling system and the oil line. The leak appears to be unrelated to the turbo, as that is dry, and is coming from the engine, but high enough that the mechanic can't see it without taking the axle off. What might make this problem occur besides a cracked engine block?
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