Volvo :: 1993 - Loss Of Brake Booster And Brake Lights On 940 Wagon
Jul 24, 2015
My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
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1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.
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Our brakes froze the first cold day this winter. My mechanic says that the brake booster valve filled with water and froze. Also, last winter our tiptronic just quit working. We never fixed it. Should we bother to fix it?
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I have a 1995 960 station wagon and a brake booster that appears to be leaking. On the passenger side of the firewall. As close as I can tell the leak seems to be right where the gaitor (rubber covering a rod) is.
1995 960 Wagon
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I have a 2001 ex. 4x4 6.8 v10. I have been having vacuum issues and brake issues lately. My front brakes seem to be sticking, some times they drag some times the don't squeeze when I step on the brake causing uneven wear and pulling when I stop. Also feels like I have no power assist. I also have a vacuum issue with the auto setting on the hubs, they don't engage I have to manually lock them and sometimes my a/c stays on defrost. And my cruise control doesn't work, the light comes on and love done the self check but it doesn't show anything is wrong. Could I have a bad brake booster?
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We have a late year model '93 240 sedan. Brake lights are not working, we've checked all the usual suspects. We cannot locate the brake switch. It is not in the usual location under the dash. There is a bracket there for one, but it seems that this is a late year model and the switch location may have been moved? Where this is located? Would really like a schematic so we can get to the bottom of this issue! Car is obviously out of commission until brake lights work.
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My 1993 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon starts and runs great in dry weather, but in wet weather, i.e., after/during rain, in very humid conditions, it has trouble starting and often won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't run. I got it started this morning after opening the hood and cranking it, thinking that the airflow might dry out whatever the issue was, but after driving for 3 minutes it stalled at a stop sign and I had to repeat the process.
A wire to the alternator was recently replaced, which I thought should have stopped the problem, but it didn't. The alternator checks good, and the check engine light is not on.
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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I'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
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My old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
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I have a 1994 Volvo 940 non turbo wagon. I just started having issues with the brakes lights and taillights not working. I have checked all the fuses visually and also did a continuity test on each one found all the fuses were good. I have replaced the all the relays, I have replaced the large red relay ( bulb failure relay ) and even did a continuity check on the bulb failure relay pins that are specifically for the rear brake light, everything checked out fine. I hesitate to change the brake light switch because the third brake light is working fine. I have considered replacing the headlight switch due to the taillights won't come on when the lights switch is on. My headlights do work though. There is no light on the dash indicating a bulb is out now since I replaced the third brake light bulb.
1994 Volvo 940 wagon
Non turbo
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After replacing the engine, clutch and pressure plate. Where the brake booster hooks up to create a vacuum, as I now have a very hard to push brake pedal, if indeed that is my problem. The pedal will not go down more than one half inch.
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How do you remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal? The damn rod won't separate from that plastic housing. I've tried wedging a flathead in there but it's hard to see. I've been fighting with it all evening and finally gave up before I end up breaking it.
Found a DIY that just cut the rod to pull the brake pedal to remove it. I rather not do that as I will be reusing the one I have.
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My 97 F-150 (4.6 L) has developed what sounds like a vacuum leak under the driver's side dash somewhere above the pedals. I can't see anything obvious. It changes sound with various positions of the brake pedal, and I can make it stop with hard acceleration for a few seconds. The brake pedal feels the same. I'm assuming the problem is probably my brake booster, right? Or should I be looking elsewhere? If so, how hard is it to replace?
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i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
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My brake booster is making noise for a few months now. It works ok and brakes are strong but the noise is there. Any way to quiet it down? Or how much the replacement might cost?
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Brake pedal whistles and is hard to push. Only happens intermittently. Mechanic wants to put new brake booster on. This would be 3rd brake booster in 9mos. It's gotta be something else. What does the vacuum hose connect to from the check valve; where on the intake manifold? If no PVC valve...then what else? Truck runs fine...no fast idle or rough idle and no hesitation.
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I need replacement vacuum hose part for my GTI 337. The piece that is disconnected is the hose from the break booster to the intake manifold. It appears to be at a one way valve. I found a picture from a different DIY, that I have circled in green. The red arrow points to the place where it separated. I am not sure if this is a matter of me using a new clamp or buying a new piece of hose from advanced auto parts. The vacuum sets on ECS Tuning and it doesn't appear to be the correct set.
[URL].........
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The wife's 2003 GX470 has some brake issues. High pitched whine and ABS and Brake lights went on, so I took it to my local lexus dealer which is 50 miles away. Anyway, the recommendation is to replace "brake booster" and "accumulator" with brake system bleed.
Then, says "may need master cylinder after that, will not know until that is completed
Then goes on to need timing belt, water pump due to miles (97K)
CV boots
Driveline service
[URL]..................
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Was wondering if it is safe to use seafoam through my brake booster vacumm line? If I drip it in SLOW can I still hydrolock my engine?
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The power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
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