Volvo :: 1993 Idle Goes Up / Down After Changing Fuel Pressure Regulator
Oct 31, 2012
Just changed the fuel pressure regulator on 1993 volvo 850 (non turbo), now the idle goes up and down then stalls.
Also changed IAC, but with a used one from a previously working car.
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I have a 2006 S60 2.5T with 40k miles. My check engine light went on and stayed on for two drives. Then turned off and hasn't returned for next couple of drives. Error code says fuel pressure regulator. Should I bother to bring it to a mechanic or since the light went off (didn't burn out -- it momentarily turns on when I start the car) should I assume all is well?
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My '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
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Today, my 1995 E150 suddenly started acting like it was running out of fuel Lucky for me, this happened close to both a parts store and my usual mechanic's shop. Unluckily for me, it happened on Saturday, and my shop can't get to it until Thursday. So here I am, hoping to do a fix in the meantime.
At first, it seemed that it must have been the fuel pump, because I couldn't hear it come on when I turned on the ignition. Then, a guy who said he was a mechanic told me he could hear the pump cycling, and that my problem was the fuel pressure regulator. So he managed to start the vehicle after a few tries, then it crapped out again. He did this twice. Then he went away.
I called every parts store in town, and none of them had a fuel pressure regulator for my vehicle, and the earliest any of them could get one was Monday. But I knew I was due for a fuel filter, and I'd changed filters on this vehicle before, so I got one of those and put it in. To my delight, the van started right up and idled beautifully. In fact, it ran beautifully for about 15 minutes, until I came to a slight rise, then it crapped out again. It still started up and idled smoothly, and even revved up smoothly, until it reached a high idle speed, at which point it crapped out. I did manage to limp into the parking lot of my shop - which, again, can't get to it until Thursday.
So my question is: does this sound like a fuel pressure regulator to you? If so, is that a job which somebody with a reasonable mechanical aptitude (i.e., at least good enough to change the fuel filter) should be able to feel safe doing? If the answer to those two is "yes" (or even if it's "no")....
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I have a 1990 Ranger with a 4.0L that I just changer the intake gasket on. I broke the fuel line at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Cant seem to find one anywhere. It is a nylon inside/rubber outside with a cloth mesh and quick connect fitting line. Where to get one? Can I hose clamp it the FPR by cutting off the connector that broke?
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I have a 2000 Integra and now that it's cold I have a hard time starting it.The battery will run down before it starts.I replaced the plugs and it started right up.They were gas soaked.But again after sitting for awhile in the cold it wont start.Once I get it running and warmed up it runs great.Once it's running can pinch the fuel return line and it will shut down.Is this normal?It seems to be sending a lot of gas back to the tank.I think the fuel pressure regulator may be bad.I dont have afuel pressure guage to check the pressure but reading articles on the web about not starting and when it does start it bucks and dies I think the regulator is bad.
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I have a 1992 toyota celica gt with the 2.2L motor. i need to know where is the fuel pressure regulator location? I keep looking and I can't find it.
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I took my fuel pressure regulator off hoping it would get to my green top coolant temp sensor. It doesn't Now when I put it back on its leaking? I didn't depressurize the fuel line first. Can this be the cause? If so do I just open the gas cap, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and then re-insert the fuel pressure regulator? or do I need to get new O-rings for the regulator?
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Where is the fuel pressure regulator on a 2005 Jetta 2.0 BEV. It's nowhere on the fuel rail.
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I've been having this code come up for a couple weeks now off and on. Currently I am stage 2 Giac. I have the autotech HPFP upgrade and was installed a couple months ago. Recently It threw the code and lasted for a couple days then went away. I notice that if i get on it pretty hard for a while the code will come back, im guessing due to lack of fuel. I pulled the fuel pump and checked the cam follower and it looks almost good as new still. Thought it would be the sensor but doesn't seem like it as the CEL turns off after a while of not getting on it.
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My car is throwing this p2293 code which means fuel pressure regulator performance 1 had towed twice this week my mechanic replace the fuel pump in the tank but yesterday I died again with the same symptom ...
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I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
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I have a leak in the fuel pressure regulator housing. Seems like a common problem. I ordered the new kit from FICMrepair.
While I wait for the new kit to arrive, is there any risk other than loosing a few mm of diesel fuel driving the van? Will the leak damage injectors?
It's not gushing out. I have smelled diesel fuel for the past 3 months and could not locate it until last weekend.
The kit is coming next week and I like driving the diesel van over my under powered 6 cylinder E150.
I want to clean out the EGR while I have everything apart. I have heard that some people just disconnect it. There is a write up about in the tech folder and it went way over my head.
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I have a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0. Was wondering where the fuel pressure regulator is located on it. I like pictures.
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My 94 B4000 (4.0L ohv)is acting weird. If I let it sit for more than a day, it won't start. I pop the intake tube off, squirt some gas in the plenum, and away she goes. It starts all day long after that. I can hear the fuel pump running. Is there a possibility there is a fuel pressure regulator leaking down, kinda like a pump losing it's prime? Or am I looking at dropping the tank for a new fuel pump??? It's getting close to winter up here (gonna snow anytime) and I don't need this kind of trouble when it's cold and snowy.
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After fixing my fuel pressure regulator leak, I found the fuel soaked track bar bushing coming apart.
The whole thing is available, but do the bushings are available? I've seen some poly kits for the '04 and older but nothing for the newer trucks. It's not a budget breaker either way, but it seem silly to throw away the giant bar because the bushing is shot.
If these will fit? 99-04 F250 Track Bar Bushings Red....
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2009 Ranger 2.3 L manual with about 100000 miles. The engine was bogging down and I just found out that the MAF sensor is bad from testing it. In the process, I measured my fuel pressure to be 73 psi (manual says 60-65 psi). So I have two questions:
a.) Is there any chance of just cleaning the MAF sensor. The sensor has zero volts when running and warm (or .02 v) and barely changes when reving the throttle.
b.) Perhaps then the high fuel pressure is an unrelated issue. Is this so high that I must change the regulator as I have to change the pump as well? Might it be some other issue than the regulator which is what the Hayness manual says?
One theory I had for the high fuel pressure is that the bad MAF was leading to bogging and lean conditions and the computer was running the pump more to compensate but I think the computer might run the pump based on fuel pressure not the o2 sensor.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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1993 f-150 with 1988 5.0 with no pollution stuff fuel injected. here's the problem. Starts fine and idles great for about 5 minutes , check engine light comes on and it very nearly stalls at which point it begins to miss and surge and basically tries to die.
If I feather the Throttle i can keep it running but not smooth!! Can't find and vacuum leaks and the egr seems to be working (push plunger up - trk). dies. Ran fine when I bought it this way about 1 year ago and all of a sudden this. note.... It started doing this after it ran low on coolant but did not over-heat.
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