Volvo :: 1993 240 Intermittent Stall On Startup / Engine Revs Low
Aug 18, 2015
What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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My wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
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I have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
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I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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I'm getting an audible whine on starting up from the engine that continues low revs / speeds but disappears upwards of 30 mph or so.
It's only audible inside the car and not outside and is definitely not transmission as it still makes the noise when in P or N.
The car drives perfectly normally, no missing or other issues.
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I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.
First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?
Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?
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My sister has a 2001 Prius w/ 150k miles. She asked me if I could shut off her check engine light. From what she tells me 1-2 times a year on very hot days (high 90s) when she starts the car it will stumble and stall (been happening since 03 when she got it).
I took it to autozone to get the codes which were:
P0300 - I assume all the misfire codes are from it stalling
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P1636
P3002
Since she said it was normal for the car I just cleared the codes for her. She did have this checked out one time at a dealership when the car was under warranty and they found nothing wrong and blamed it on the weather.
I searched the forums for 1636 and 3002 codes the 12v battery seems like it could be a likely culprit (it is the original battery as far as she knows). A few weeks passed while I was researching the codes and the battery options and she had another problem. (still haven't ordered the battery yet)
She says the car loses engine power 1-2 times a week (she drive 4-500mi a week). The dash stays lit up and the power comes back quickly. Sometimes while accelerating it will just stop accelerating and then go back to normal, or on the highway it will slow down and then be back to normal. Check engine light is back on and the new codes are:
P0420
P1636
P3002
I'm going to get a new battery ordered today but I'm kind of skeptical that it has anything to do with this new problem.
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In the past month for 3 times I've experienced problems with engine start (starter turned properly and I could hear fuel pump working). Yesterday however, I noticed that during full acceleration - at higher revs, engine suddenly loses a bit of power and at the same time you can feel kind of rattling or vibration in the engine. After letting off the gas pedal everything goes back to normal ... Besides, everything seems to be normal. Lambda control light does not light up indicating any errors. However I get a faulty knock sensor code 1-4-3. To my intuition the problem is with the ignition (but approx. 2 years ago I replaced distributor cap + rotor and the plugs + ignition wires were replaced about 3 years ago) or the amount of fuel in the mixture, but that could be caused by many things.
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I purchased my 2013 SF 2.0 Turbo SE in August 2013. Up until then, I was a long time Toyota owner. I've very satisfied with the SF, except I've been having an intermittent issue since I bought the vehicle.
Maybe 3-4 times a month, out of the blue, when I making a left hand turn, there is a hesitation when I press the accelerator. The hesitation lasts for about a second or so, but when there's traffic coming at you while you're making the left turn, it can be quite scary and the second feels like forever!
The hesitation feels like there is absolutely no power and the engine will stall. It never does. I've had it back to the dealer/garage for diagnostics several times but they can't seem to find anything wrong. And they keep charging me for the diagnostics! This occurs in ECO mode and non-ECO mode.
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I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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I took my 2011 c30 in for its 30000 mile routine service to a local Volvo dealer service dept in Sept 2014 and ever since I am hearing an intermittent clank after starting the engine. I also hear the noise while driving (it eventually stops after a while) and for about 10 minutes after shutting the engine down. The time between clanks is about 20 - 30 seconds. It is a single clank sound (like metal hitting metal). The car operates fine and no warning messages.
I took it back to the Volvo dealer service dept and after 2 days they were perplexed, and asked me to bring it back the following week when their Master mechanic was in-house, which I did.
They had the car for 5 more days and never could diagnose the issue and were told by Volvo HQ to give the car back to me. The service dept told me they sent all the info, including documentation and audio of the noise to Volvo HQ and that I would hear back from them.
Here is the response I finally received on Feb 18 from the service manager: "I spoke with tech again on this matter. Tech reviewed the case and the notes from Volvo. The noise concern has been left open ended for now until the noise gets worse as per Volvo. Or if they have other cases of this same concern with other same type cars/engines. At that time Volvo would contact us if there is a repair that needs to be done and we would contact you. Otherwise there is no additional diagnostics and or inspections to be done unless its getting much worse. As per Volvo and tech."
The car is under warranty for 1 more year, and my next service (37,500) won't be until the fall as I don't drive much. The noise is still the same, not better or worse. It still drives fine and there are no warning lights. However, I don't like leaving this opened-ended.
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1993 Geo Prizm, manual transmission: Intermittent failure to start over a two year period, gradually becoming more frequent. The engine turns over every time the key is turned to start the engine, i.e. the starter motor/battery/battery connections work flawlessly. Once started the engine runs flawlessly without misses or shut downs. The only possible problem may be the engine idle speed that seems at times to be too high even after the engine is warmed up. Without predictability, the engine may fail to start when the key is turned.
Remember the engine still turns over normally. It just does not fire up. Two options exist for my predicament. That which is resorted to the most because of the speed of recovery: step out of the vehicle and push start the car by popping the clutch. The other alternative which I have been forced to utilize before because of the physical impossibility of push starting (i.e. if I had been able to push, I would have popped the clutch to start) at the time has been to wait for a protracted period and re-attempt to key start the car. This has been successful a couple of times.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.
When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.
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I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
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I have a 97 Volvo 850. A couple weeks ago, it stalled a half dozen times while starting. The engine would turn over, start, run for a few seconds, then stall. Before calling for a tow truck, I started it up again, and it ran. After idling for a few minutes, it appeared to run smoothly. We drove home without a problem. When I took it into the shop, of course it wasn't acting up. A little later, the technician called to say it acting up for him so he knew I wasn't going crazy. He took it back to the shop, and it acted up again for another tech. They have since put their instruments on the car but it refuses to tell them anything. The check engine light works. All pressures are to spec. The fuel filter has been checked as well as all fuel lines. The car has not acted up now for over a week. The shop still can't find the problem.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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Okay so my dads 93 explorer seems like its starving for gas, it cuts out almost like its going to stall, hasn't stalled yet, but it seems like its not getting enough gas, new fuel filter and still having the same problem, fuel pump isn't that old either, just started doing it maybe thursday. We haven't really looked much into it yet, but what it could be?
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I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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When I start my '05 Camry (4 cyl - SE) it revs up to 2K, though only briefly. I don't like to go over 1,000 rpm until it's warmed up. Toyota dealer says that's normal ... Would it hurt to try it with the cold start (water temp) sensor unplugged ?........
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