Volvo :: 1992 - Speakers Are Blown
Apr 17, 2005
I own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I won't have to do any unnecessary cutting or modify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also).
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I have a 2008 Camry LE with the JBL system, the door speakers are blown and I can't find anything that meets the specs. They are 6x9 2 ohm, I'm not sure what the depth is, but I know it's less than most aftermarket speakers. I would probably also need an adapter to make it fit on the OEM mount.
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I just got my ultra white/Black GS FSport Monday and noticed right away that the phone audio is complete garbage. When I make a call it sounds like my speakers are blown. Really bad crackly and cutting out of the audio, as if my phone was just outside of the BT signal range, when in fact it's in my pocket. Tech guy at Lexus said to disconnect and remove device from both the phone and the car and pair the phone again...but same problems.
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I was on my way home from work when my speakers suddenly stopped working. I tried changing stations and switching to CDs, but sound still refused to play. My head unit works perfectly fine. Every 5 minutes or so if the radio is left on, sound will come from the speakers on the right side of the car, but only for roughly 5 seconds before the sound disappears again. When this happens, the volume knob does not work and the sound cannot be turned down.
I have checked all three fuse boxes and nothing seems to be wrong. I have also checked behind the head unit and there are no problems as far as wiring is concerned. Is it possible that my amp just needs replaced, or is there something else that could have gone wrong?
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I have a 92 caprice 5.7. Vehicle had suddenly stopped ... Providing fuel to the tbi. I immediately checked relays etc all were good. Then I figured it had to be the pump because I didn't hear the whirl of the pump with the key forward engine not cranking. I replaced the fuel pump. Still same problem no fuel. I found the 20 amp fuse blown that sits next to the 2 relays. I replace the fuse then the fuel pump got energized as I cranked the engine it almost started but then the fuse blew again. I have a short in the circuit I believe. I don't have a wiring diagram,what else is on the fuel pump circuit so I can have a direction to start in to find a probable bad wire.
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I have a 1998 volvo s70 with 273k on it. I am pretty sure the head gasket is blown. The shop I usually take my car to said i need to take it to a dealer and that volvo usually wants to replace the engine on a car that old. Would you pay the 6k for a new engine or think about a new car?
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I believe my head gasket is blown, but no one really knows what's wrong with it.. Car stalled & then smoke came out the oil tank an coolant tank an muffler? I just got this car used a month ago.. where to start..
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My daugther 2002 Volvo V50 blow an engine because of the time belt slipped She had only had less than 75000 and was relgious about her mx checkups timely and by only Volvo Mechanics. She is a Service member in Gemany and the Germany dealer say there is nothing she can do. How to get this engine replaced or even credit for a new volvo. The Engine is gone and the mechanic said 7000 Euro. The car blue book at 9500 Euro.
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Car has begun to idle very fast ( comes and goes ) ( 1992 240 ) ....
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I just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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Have swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
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My "bulb out" dashboard indicator came on and after checking all lights I could not find a burnt out bulb. I took the car to the local dealer and they told me the "bulb failure relay" was bad and needed replacing. I decided to try and replace it myself but so far I'm not doing to good.
I found this picture on another website and also read that the realy is permantly mounted to the relay board. Also, when I looked at pictures of the replacement relay they lok nothing like the original.
So now I'm wondering how the heck do you take the old relay out and get the new one in that doesn't at all look like the original?
Attached File(s) : RelayPanel760960A.gif ( 31.06K )
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I own a 1992 Volvo 740 wagon, non-turbo. Super solid car up until a month ago when it developed a grinding sound and vibration when slowing down from 15-0 mph. There is no noise or pulsating at any other speed when I apply the brakes. This happens with tranny in N or D. I replaced the front rotors and pads about a month before this started happening.
I suspected the rear brakes so I also replaced the rotors and pads but I was still getting that grinding/ vibration. The next thing was to replace the hub/bearing assembly, I only did the drivers side because I banged it up pretty bad when replacing the rotors. This also had no effect on the grinding. I also noticed that when driving at moderate to fast speed I hear a humming noise, almost like big truck tires make. This is especially noticeable when letting off the gas and coasting. Could this be a tranny issue?
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1992 Volvo 240 ... I'm having car jerking problem after running for about 20 minutes at speed between 90 -110 kph. Car stabilizes again when the speed comes back to 90kph. There is no problem initially when running beyond 120kph when the engine first started up. The problem only starts after a short while.
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Cranks strong, I have fuel to the rail, 12V at the injectors and spark. Have changed crank sensor and 2 relays?
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I just got caught in the rain, literally, a freeway ramp was partially flooded, saw other cars go through a "puddle" and with safety distance proceeded. About 9 feet away from the edge of this water accumulation my engine sputtered and turned off on me and I recall seeing some, but not much white smoke coming out of the hood. I didn't leave the car as when I look right next to me I saw only water, about 1/2 the height of my tire surrounding me. AAA came pretty fast and pulled me out of that wet mess and mentioned it could be just as simple as overheating. It's about 2 hours later and I tried my engine but all it does is struggling to turn on. I turned it off immediately. I checked my coolant level - empty as it can get, and also my dipstick in the oil seems to be not right. Transmission fluid is fine though. Could those two fluids be the problem to why my engine is not starting? Or could it be that something got too wet? Once I turn the key in the 1 position shows electricity is fine and all lights come on with Overdrive and SRS going off after a short while. 1992 Volvo 240 ...
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When I 'hit the gas' I hear a loud clunk or short scratching noise (definitely metal) before the engine starts revving up. I've researched the issue a bit but found no concrete answers. Motor mounts, timing, transmission issue? No one thing seems to cause it as far as I can tell.
I got my '92 Volvo 240 Non-Turboalmost a year ago and haven't really thought much of the noise, but I'm coming up on a 500mi trip to Northern California. I want to make sure it's in tip-top shape before I leave. [IMG]
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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We are considering the purchase of a 1992 Volvo 960 sedan. We have two young daughters who both need to be using child seats. I cannot work out where the anchor points are for fitting the seats.
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92 Toyota Pickup (22RE auto). New block, rebuilt head, new water pump at 300k about a year ago. Sounds strange I know but that's what seems to have happened. Ive never been able to get heat from the truck since Ive owned it so Ive been trying to fix that. I flushed the coolant out and replaced the tstat. I brought the car to a mechanic and he put a pressure tester on the cooling system and he said it wasn't holding any pressure. He also pulled off the heater core inlet hose with the truck running and no coolant was coming out. He thought there was a blockage somewhere but how to fix it. I figured I might as well try replacing the old radiator cap with a new one so I did. Once I did this, the first time the truck went out, it overheated and the radiator crimped upper seam (on the plastic) burst outward.So all in all...something is wrong.
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