Volvo :: 1992 960 Automatic Wagon Hesitates Then Clunks Into Gear - High RPMs
Nov 23, 2012
My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx wagon, automatic. The engine starts at normal rpm, about 1500 then, with my foot off the accelerator, it begins to rise until, after 3 minutes or so it's at 2500 and rising. I should also point out that recently the car's been overheating after a short drive. I'm going to flush the coolant system and replace the fluid. Are these two faults related?
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my 1992 960 wagon with 332K miles today started making a moaning noise when making a significant turn at low speed. At first it seemed to be only when I was accelerating but if that was true, it now is doing it at any low-speed big turn. Tonight, turning around in the driveway, it added what I call juddering during the turn. So naturally I am concerned.If it is something as minor as power steering fluid I might trust a local gas station to fill it up, but probably not any more than that. (There used to be a dealer about 45" away, but they seem to be gone now, and the closest one is hours away. I am 250 miles and one week away from my own trusted mechanic, so I hope it is something like fluid!).I haven't noticed any puddles on the driveway where it is parked, but I suppose it could leak out only when the engine is on and the car is moving.
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My 94 850 turbo wagon starts rough and idles very high. the rpms dont come down. After turning car off, wont restart again unless I let in sit for a while.
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I just picked up this old 240 wagon with 230k miles on it for next to nothing due to a transmission issue. It stays stuck in 1st gear for about the first 15 minutes of drive time and then starts shifting perfectly after that. I took it to a transmission specialist and he thought the valve body may be sticking. I also had an experienced volvo tech adjust the kick down cable but so far its still having the same issue.
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I have a 92 chevy pick up 5.7 with 159,000 miles. The truck runs and starts great but shortly after I bought it 3 years ago it developed a sort of misfire at higher rpm's, it's fine if I drive it normally but if I try to pass someone it will downshift then fall on it's face, (spit,sputter and slow down). some times I can feather the accelerator and it will come back again. I normally don't drive the truck in the winter but this week I was forced to use it and the cold weather is seriously affecting it, it took forever to get it up to 70 mph after getting on the highway. once up to speed it will do 75 all day without an issue.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it as the port for the pcv valve was plugged solid with carbon. I have not replaced the cap and rotor as they seemed to look fine. I have not checked the fuel pressure because it will break the tires loose upon take off and I don't think that would be possible if the pressure was low, would it?
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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(1994 Volvo 850 2.4L L5 Base) whenever i accelerate i get high RPM's but now actual acceleration. i cleaned the MAF and it worked for a short time then it began happening again. so i ran the codes and i got back A1- 121, 131. A2- 121, 121. A3- 141, 142, 213, 214, 311, 312. A6- 131.
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2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
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My 2003 2.0 Zetec focus wagon has a problem when I hit the gas from a dead stop. The car hesitates for a second or 2, like it's not getting enough fuel, then it revs up OK. Not all the time though, about 1 in every 5 stops. Once it's moving, there's no problem, you can accelerate just fine. I replaced the fuel filter and added fuel treatment. I also saw it had a real bad valve cover leak that had flooded all the spark plug wells. I replaced the gasket, plugs and wires, but it didn't seem to make a difference. Using a scanner, I monitored fuel pressure at idle, it was about 38.5 PSI. When I hit the gas it it went up to about 40 PSI. I think maybe the ignition module/coil might be going out, but don't want to replace it unless I have to.
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I have an 2001 S 80, T6, with 74K miles. I love the car but have had an issue with it since I bought it in 2004. I hear random clunks, pops, and bang noises in all 4 corners. I can't recreate the noises, they just occur randomly. But they can be loud! I have had the dealer inspect it a few times always telling me that everything looks okay.
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I am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
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Purchased my 2013 Elantra GT a few months ago and have been having a problem that had stumped everyone at the dealership. Thought I'd see who else is having it and what the thoughts are. To start, this is a 6SPD Manual Transmission.
Problem: Say you're at a stop and begin accelerating in 1st gear and then shift into neutral because you have to come to a stop again. When operating normally, the RPMs immediately wind down to idle. Well for me, about 15% of the time or more, the RPMs will take up to 10-15 seconds to wind down to idle. During this time, you cannot really shift into 1st gear because the RPM are too high.
The dealership has been working on this issue since last month. They replaced some parts and it is still doing it. They got diagnostic data and told me the throttle was sticking. No one could figure it out. Engineers got involved from regional, and it got pretty heavy as far as time. After several attempts at figuring out the problem and replacing things (which didn't resolve the issue), the engineers drove another new GT and found it was also doing it. So all of a sudden they said "it's normal" and closed the case.
Chances are, if other new ones are doing it, so is yours. I got second opinions from other auto shops who said it is not at all normal and that there may be a defect in the design. I've owned 4 Manual Transmission cars and I have never seen this before. If you're curious and have the 6spd manual version of this car, the easiest and quickest way to see this happen is accelerate in 1st gear to about 4000RPM and shift into neutral. Eventually, it'll get stuck and take a significantly longer time for the RPMs to return to idle. Usually when it finally happens, it'll keep doing it for several subsequent acceleration cycles.
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I've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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I have a 2006 accent gls manual and when I am on the highway in 5th gear my rpms are high. if I am cruising at 110km my rpms will be almost at 3500..
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I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
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I have a 1997 Volvo 960 station wagon. It has been sitting in the driveway for 5 months. I went to drive it and it wouldn't start. We jumped it and it ran but wouldn't hold a charge. The battery was about 7 years old so we went and bought a new battery. We took the old battery out and replaced it and now it does nothing. It won't start and there is no sign of power to the car at all.
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