Volvo :: 1992 240 Wagon Intermittently Stalling / Missing - Loss Of Power
Feb 11, 2009
My 1992 240 wagon (injection) is intermittently stalling, and missing. The lambda light is on the dash. Last year it was doing something similar, but not as bad, and I took it to Volvo and they cleaned the throttle body and said it should be ok, and it was for a while, but now it's worse. Ignition parts are mostly new, I doubt it's that. When it stalls it nearly always starts straight away. When it's missing badly but not stalling, pressing the acc peddle does nothing, until it eventually catches on and revs properly.
I also find that when I have a full tank it's not so bad. When the tank was nearly empty it was particularly bad - it's winter and I was suspecting there was condensation in the tank.
Is there a 'backyard' way of getting the error codes? This could be a good start.
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Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
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I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.
I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.
One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.
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My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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my 1992 960 wagon with 332K miles today started making a moaning noise when making a significant turn at low speed. At first it seemed to be only when I was accelerating but if that was true, it now is doing it at any low-speed big turn. Tonight, turning around in the driveway, it added what I call juddering during the turn. So naturally I am concerned.If it is something as minor as power steering fluid I might trust a local gas station to fill it up, but probably not any more than that. (There used to be a dealer about 45" away, but they seem to be gone now, and the closest one is hours away. I am 250 miles and one week away from my own trusted mechanic, so I hope it is something like fluid!).I haven't noticed any puddles on the driveway where it is parked, but I suppose it could leak out only when the engine is on and the car is moving.
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My wife was driving my 93 Volvo 940 wagon yesterday, and the brakes suddenly lost power, and brake lights went out. I have heard no hissing from the booster, and I have checked the 10 amp fuse on the relay beneath the instrument panel. Hoping (and praying) it is just one of the relays. I have a meter, but not sure which pins to use to check the relays. Secondary issue: the used radiator I bought did not have the cooling fan sensor, so I have my fan on a toggle inside.
When my wife pulled over because of the brakes, she did not turn the fan on. Yup. Overheated. Now the radiator leaks from the rubber/plastic plug where the sensor goes. Any pliable sealants that could withstand the temps? Cash is in very short supply right now. That is my main issue right now, trying to drive with no brake lights. No ABS light, and no brake light coming on on the dash. Bulbs are good. ABS light does not come on at all with ignition, but bulb tests good. Just hard brakes, and no brake lights.
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I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
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We own a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. Occasionally, when my daughter is driving at very low speeds, such as braking when approaching a stop sign or stop light, or when she is accelerating from a stop, the engine shuts off, forcing her to stop the vehicle, put the car in park, and restart the engine. Fortunately, the engine always restarts. Unfortunately, however, the problem only occurs intermittently. It may happen twice within an hour, and then not again for two or three weeks. As a result, the problem has not been duplicated by the dealer or any other repair shop. And, when plugged into the computer, none of the codes show up. So far the dealer has removed carbon from the throttle valve control unit and replaced the alternator. But the problem continues. Not sure what do to next as the dealer says he is baffled.
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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My 02 excursion is missing at idle and jars the whole truck around going approx 50mph feels like good amount of power loss but still pushing 30psi boost, just got autoenginuity all injectors buzz fine on the test, contribution test show balance fault in cylinders 1&8, should I look for o-rings to be bad, uvch, cups cracked or what ----- turbo fine, hpop great condition, new IPR, new fuel pump and hutch mod, about. 250k miles on truck nothing else major showed up on ae.
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This has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
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My father owns a 2003 Santa Fe GLS with the 2WD 2.7L V6 engine.
Recently it has been having lots of power loss issues. It vibrates/misses when idling, if you put your foot down on the gas pedal, whether under load or not, it sometimes stalls or just sits there. We took it to Hyundai, and they had no error codes. They charged us $150 to tell us nothing is wrong with it, when clearly something is. The car has become downright dangerous to drive because it cannot make it up hills without stalling/losing power.
The most recent thing we had done to it was the wires/spark plugs changed, which I think was at 65k on the odometer?
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I have a 2002 Passat 1.8T. It has been acting funny for a couple weeks now. It seems to be missing, then last night I took off from a four way stop and the engine light started to blink and the car was loosing power and not really taking any throttle. I managed to get it into a parking lot then I popped the hood and first noticed the inside of the turbo was lit up bright red. Now I dont know if this was cause from me trying to throttle it to get into the parking lot while it was loosing power or if my problem is the turbo or maybe an exhaust issue. I hooked up the diagnostic tool and the only thing read was P0303 for cylinder 3 so I dont know if the misfire was from the loosing power or if this is my issue.
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2002 ranger edge 3.0 5spd. Truck idles perfect, but when you get rolling and higer rpms feels like the engine is missing. loos of power and shakes. I replaced the usual, plugs and wire's, seemed to work for a bit but came back. I cannot get any info on the scanner and have checked all the fuses. I am thinking coil pack but don't understand why it idles perfect and only misses under acceleration. No check engine light on.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
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I am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
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SAAB 2007 9-3 - Recently my car has been having a rough idle and stalling on start up. It has been getting worse and I need it fixed ASAP for a long trip coming up. I cannot have this thing die on me while I'm 300 miles from home....
At stop lights the car will have a rough idle while in park and reverse. While in neutral, nothing. As soon as I accelerate, it goes away but does have a lack of power if I really push the pedal. Once I am in 3rd/4th gear, the car feels normal with no issues. If I am on the highway and slow down then need to accelerate, it goes back to losing power BUT if I change over to manual and downshift, car gains power and goes back to normal.
Here's what I have done so far:
1. Changed the spark plugs twice. Once with cheap ones, the second time with expensive ones. I also swapped out the boots.
2. Cleaned the MAP sensor
3. Cleaned intake sensor
4. Replaced air filter
5. Changed oil
6 New battery
The engines gives no codes whatsoever and I have taken it to a couple places and their readers don't see any codes. My SAAB has a built in fuel filter and this cannot be replaced unless you replaced the whole pump (to my understanding). I plan on buying some Seafoam today and see if that works. Also, I have been told to clean my air intake valve but I cannot get the damn tube off! I feel that if I yank and pull on it, it's going to damage the tube. I am not seeing any obvious leaks anywhere. One thing that is weird about my car, since I have bought it used a few years ago, my headlights/tail lights/blinkers go bad QUICKLY!
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Almost two weeks ago, I began to have a problem with my car. (2001 Elantra) At times it acted like it was about to stall as I was driving up the smallest incline. Once I got up the incline, my car would jump gears. (second to third, so on)...
The car was taken to Advanced Auto where I received codes about the catalytic converter and the output sensor. I've known about the converter since I bought the car last year and the sensor was replaced. But I am still having problems with the car. My friend is literally having to drive it like it was a stick.
We fear it might be the transmission as I you can go in reverse with no problem. What it could be instead of the transmission?
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I have a 95 aerostar with the 4.0. After driving a while it wants to lose power. It only happens after the van has been running for a while, at least 2 hours or more. So of course I have mostly noticed it at higher speeds because I was on the interstate going a long distance when it happened most recently. But it has also happened at lower speeds, after the van had been running/driving for about 4 hours. The van doesn't die right off. It is idling as the van slows down. So I can come to a stop, and the van is still running. I can get out and look at it sometimes, it eventually will cut off. Pushing the gas does nothing, other than perhaps encourage it to stall sooner. It is a complete loss of power but the engine remains running at an idle. If I wait 15 minutes it will go a couple more miles down the road. If I wait about an hour, I can get even further. Let it sit overnight and it seems like it will drive endlessly but not so.
If I try to restart it immediately, sometimes it will run/stutter for a moment. I can wait a few minutes and it will run for a minute then die. After repeated tries to get it to start and stay running it just won't, and then I just wait patiently for an extended amount of time (30 minutes or more). Also on a couple of occasions the exhaust has smelled very rich, and sometimes was black. All of this has been in the last couple of days and 600 miles. It isn't throwing any codes.
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I just did my plugs in my 04 F150 5.4 The truck had a really bad miss, and I figured it was time for plugs. I broke all eight plugs which I expected as the plugs were in there since new and had 120 000 miles on them. Replaced with champion double platinum and I am not certain that was the best idea.
The truck is much better with the new plugs but still has a miss and a rough vibration. The truck seems to shake side to side at idle but smooths out during normal driving conditions. I have noticed that it seems to lack power intermittently if that makes any sense. Also, the check engine light was on for a while but I tracked that down to a broken wire in the evap system.
So I am thinking first step is to verify that the coils and boots were installed correctly. I have to see if we have the scope module for the Genisys at work. I am going to check for vacuum leaks as well. I just changed the fuel filter and no change. Is there anything else I should look at? Would cam phasers cause a rough idle and intermittent loss of power?
I don't drive this truck every day so I can take it apart to diagnose it further...
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