I am acquiring a 1991 Volvo 740 Turbo and am concerned about the need to change the timing belt. The seller does not have record of it being changed since he had the car for two years. He had only put about 10,000 miles on it since he had acquired it. It now has 186,000 miles and runs perfect and basically in good shape for its age. If the belt breaks does it ruin the engine?
View 2 RepliesWhat are the correct timing marks and positions for a Volvo 940 Turbo? I especially need the position of the crankshaft pulley. I have read the timing mark is on the cover, but unfortunately mine has dry rotted and crumbled away.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a 1991 Volvo Turbo 740 with 186,000 miles on it. It runs perfect for a few days and then when parked will not start. Attempt to start 1/2 hour later it starts and runs perfect again. It has done that for several days now. I have driven it to locations approximately 40 miles round trip with frequent stops for a period of time and then start up again. This AM it started up perfect as I moved it from a driveway to part in front of my house on the street. Several hours later I went to start it but it would not start. 1/2 hour later I decided to try one more time before calling the tow truck to take to a mechanics and it started up perfect again. I drove it to the library and bank later and ran perfect after the two stops. This is driving me nuts since I had taken it to a mechanic when it did this Monday and it ran great at the mechanics and he could not determine what was wrong. He told me WHEN it stops again to have it towed in and he could determine at that time when it was not running.
View 7 RepliesI have a 91 Camry and have just replaced the timing belt and water pump. I thought I did everything right. I made sure the Crankshaft Pulley was aligned to TDC and I turned the Cams to the right marks. I turned the crank by hand numerous times and everything lined up.
I lowered the motor back on to the mounts but didn't connect all the belts to the alternator and compressor. I just wanted to see if it would fire up. Well nothing happened, it turns over but won't start. I pulled some of the plugs and they are bone dry. Sprayed some starter fluid into the throttle body and still nothing. When I turn the key to Accs. Shouldn't I hear the fuel pump wind up? I can't remember but I don't hear a thing.
So my dilemma is, did I screw up the cam/crank alignment and just don't realize it? Like I said all the marks line up fine. Do I need to put everything back together i.e. the Cruise Actuator, Power Steering reservoir, and all belts before I can start it up? It seemed to me I would at least get a hint off life without putting everything back. Then again, I'm not mechanic.
I recently changed the timing belt on my 2001 Avalon. I am now getting a P1351 code. I removed the timing belt covers and checked the marks, and everything lines up perfectly. I have checked this twice now. To give a little background, before I changed the timing belt, I was getting P0300, P0301, P0303 and P0305 codes along with a P1349. Upon looking up the codes, P0300 indicates a misfire on multiple cylinders, with P0301, P0303 and P0305 indicating misfires on cylinders 1, 3 and 5. The P1349 indicates a variable valve timing issue on bank 1 (cylinders 1, 3 and 5).
I had already changed all 6 coil packs and fuel injectors and spark plugs within the last year (iridium plugs), so I pretty much ruled out any of those. And since the valve timing code was on the same bank as the misfires, I figured that was the cause of the misfires. The oil level was fine, and it hadn't been all that long since I had changed oil. So the next possibility was the solenoid. I changed both of them. Since it was due for the timing belt, I decided to go ahead and change that too. Now, the P0300, P0301, P0303, 0305 and P1349 codes are gone. But after a day or two, the P1351 shows up. As I mentioned earlier, I took the timing belt covers off and checked the belt and alignment marks. All was perfect. I cleared the code. Within a few minutes of driving the code comes back. I checked the belt alignment again. Not loose, and marks line up perfectly. The car runs smooth as can be. I do notice that there is valve clatter on Bank 2. It sounds kind of like a diesel. But it is running smooth. It is also interesting that the original valve timing problem was on Bank 1, but the valve timing problem now is Bank 2. I have only driven it a few miles since the belt change. That's all it took for the code to come up.
OK, so yesterday I changed my timing belt and all new components. I started the car before completely reassembling everything (bumpers, etc.) and it ran a little rough at first, then smoothed out. But this only lasted a few seconds and then it died out. I thought not much about it and finished my reassembly. Afterwards, the car would crank and crank and finally start. However, it would never idle smooth and it stalled out only after 1-2 seconds.
I did some investigation, and found the plugs all had wet oil on them. Changed them out and tried to start car with same results. Looked again at the plugs and they weren't as oily, but on their way. I looked all over for a source of this problem and found a broken "pipe" on the passenger side of the engine. It is black and sits behind a heat shield, directly under a larger black pipe. They both run from front to back. I think the broken one might be a vacuum line of some type, although when I plug it, nothing happens.
My fear is that I botched the timing belt job and subsequently, bent a mess of valves. But, I'm holding out hope for another cause of this dilemma. What is the smaller black tube/pipe on the side of the intake? The broken piece comes off a 90 degree elbow pointing to the ground. I'm guessing it was broken before the timing belt job, but who knows? Perhaps I broke it when I moved the radiator into service mode. Could it be part of the turbo? I thought that might cause the rough idle and stalling.
Oh, one other thing. When I last tried to start the car, I got a flashing "STOP" on the instrument panel, followed by something about the oil. The oil words only appeared for a split second before going away. Not even long enough for me to read the whole sentence.
I got 102k on my 2000 1.8T Passat, ATW engine code. I'm thinking about changing the timing belt. Is there any way to check if it was done before. How to recognize factory timing belt?
View 9 RepliesI drive a car I am extremely reliant on. I don't have money to buy a new one and I may be a bit over protective of this car. It is in excellent shape, I bought it with 96K and whoever owned it took good care of it. I changed the battery pretty much right away, and the auto parts store guy said it looked like it was the original battery. So I suspect the timing belt is original too, (along with the clutch, which works great BTW). I don't know anything about cars short of what I have heard on CT, but it seems there is a trend towards having to change the timing belt at 80-90K And I know that a worn out timing belt can have no symptoms and essentially ruin your car if it breaks.
I took my car for the blue plate special, and it has been to the dealer a couple of times for some repairs where they also do the general service and see if they can find something to charge me for and in all cases, my car had nothing they would identify and repair. Fluids are good air filters are good etc. When I took it to the little shop on the corner I got the same report, and when I picked it up I asked, well how does the timing belt look? And he said. I can't tell you, you would have to take it apart to find out. So my questions are, as I do not know if the timing belt has been changed by previous owners. should I just go for it and have someone change the timing belt as part of my regular maintenance plan now, or is there some nifty way to find out if it needs changing without having to spend an arm and a leg?
Looking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
View 5 RepliesRecently I changed the timing belt on a 2004 Passat 1.8T and I realized I put the timing tensioner off by a few millimeters due to misunderstanding. I started the engine and it didn't sound very healthy. So I took off the timing belt and realized the tensioner was off by 8 millimeters. I corrected it and restarted the engine and it began back-firing. I re-checked and replaced the belt 3 more times and it still back-fired. The engine runs perfectly from a few seconds to a few minutes, then begins back firing and it stalls out. I had a recent post and I had suggestions to check all hoses, connections, etc. and to scan the computer for error codes. I did so and got the codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304. These codes mean back-fire in cylinders 2-4. I don't see any valve adjustments in the engine so could the valves be bent and do I have to replace them? God forbid D: Or do I have to reset some kind of computer code in the car or any other error that may need adjusting? All connections, hoses, wires, etc. are good. I've been a professional mechanic/technician for 25 years now and fixed cranes, bulldozers, semi-trucks, and anything else you can name that has wheels and is land based, all sorts of engines, gas, diesel, ethanol, you name it... I also worked on several VW's, including my own, and figured this V-Dub would be a walk in the park , but it turns out this Passat is the most complicated thing I've worked on in my life!
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota camry solara with 66,000. Does the timing belt need to be done now due to age of the car?? Or wait alittle longer?
View 4 RepliesI purchased a 2004 volvo c-70 with 35K miles.The manual says to replace the timing belt at 100k or 10 years.With such low miles do I need to replace it in 2014?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 Gen II with 133,000 miles and am using Amsoil synthetic oil and an extended life filter, changing oil every 10,000 miles. What is the frequency for changing belts, hoses, and timing belt? Other than a faulty latch on the rear lid, I have experienced ZERO problems with the car and would like to keep it so.
View 6 RepliesSo, I got a 01 b5 1.8 5spd given to me was broken timing belt. The car is super clean with 226k on it and had been well-taken care of..oil changes Mobil 1 and such. the owner just got his $$ worth and drove it till the belt went, slapping then towed it to my shop. It did not overheat and he was not driving it hard. Now here is my real question...apars lapping on a new belt and crossing my fingers, what testing can I do to check and see if there are any valves damaged? Can't I do a compression test w/out the valve train in time right? Also, if there does happen to be head damage. I would be in the market for an AUG head, unless it's just a valve that can be replaced....
View 6 RepliesI took my 1997 Honda Accord with 97,000 miles to the Honda dealer for a 90,000 mile service and changing of the timing belt. I also had them replace some gaskets, some other belts and the axles as they were not holding fluid. When I got the car back the second time I drove it the check engine light came on and the car will not shift gears properly. When I start the car cold, put it in drive and accelerate the engine revs for a few seconds before the gears will engage.
This continues whenever I stop and accelerate. It also happens whenever the car is ready to switch to a higher gear. The engine revs past 3000 rpm and then will shift a second or two later. The dealer says I need to change a rebuilt transmission. The Bluebook on the car is only about $3000. I'm having difficulty evaluating the best course of action. What is the reliability of a rebuilt transmission?
I recently bought a 97 960. i have had a s90 before in totaled it i loved the car so much i found another. i was driving and broke the timing belt tensioner which in turn lead to the breaking of 5 exhaust valves that i know of. I've taken off the head and noticed that one of the bottom of the valves had melted onto the number 5 piston head.
I called around and search but every motor is at least 1000 and i have been told anywhere from 3500-4500 to rebuild. My question would b is there an easy way to fix or should i junk it. i bought it for a 1000 it has only 140000 on it an its in almost great condition. I attached some pictures of the head and piston so u can see the damage.
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2001 volvo s40. Diagnostics performed. Error codes for the timing belt and temperature sensor. These were replaced. The check engine light still comes on/stays on.
View 6 RepliesI was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 RepliesSerpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
View 11 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1991 Volvo 240 Base with an Automatic Transmission. Just yesterday, I was hopping onto the highway, when all of a sudden, my car would not go any faster than 40 to 45 MPH. It has been running fine up to that point. I ended up just taking side streets, where it ran fine. I have not taken it on the highway after that.
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