Volvo :: 1991 Back Up Lights Stopped Working After Some Repair
Jul 11, 2014
My 1991 240 always had 2 working back up lights. After one of two garage visits recently (with them not working on my lighting), one of the two stopped working.
The last visit (a different garage) I just made with this time the mechanics working on a tail light issue as well as other stuff now has me with the 2nd back up light not working. Since one mechanic lost me the use of one and another mechanic lost me the use of the other.
How I can troubleshoot this and get one or both "back" on my own?
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I have a 1991 740 Wagon with ~153,000 miles. I say approximately, because the speedometer, the odometer, and cruise control stopped working. My mechanic says it is the sensor loctated on the differential, I believe he said.
2 questions: My local Volvo junkyard has gone out of business; where is a good place online to get used parts? and second, .is sensor difficult to replace? I can fix things that are easy.
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3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
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My 1991 Volvo 240 with automatic transmission suddenly stopped shifting out of first. No warning. Fluid level is good.
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I was driving my 91 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon yesterday morning when, out of the blue, the warning lights came on and the engine shut down. I was still able to utilize the wipers and radio as I sat there for an hour waiting for a tow, but whenever I attempted to start the engine, I got a few rumbles but the engine would not turn over. All belts seem to be in place. I just had the water pump replaced. I replaced the alternator 2 years ago when I first bought the car and installed a new battery about 1 year ago.
Any thoughts on what could be the root problem here?
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1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.
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I have a 2005 RX330 that is fully loaded (Navigation, Bluetooth, steering wheel controls). About 6 months ago almost all of the technology stopped working. The navigation ask for a repair disk. The bluetooth stopped working. The radio still works, but recently it has been spotty, like you will turn on the car and the radio will not work, and no matter how much you turn the volume up or down no sound will come on until you turn the car off and turn it back on.
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My cooling fan just stoped working the other day (not sure why) i replaced the fuses and relays they are all good. Now when i unhook it from the radiator fan switch it turns on but plug it back in and well it shuts off, i put a new switch to see if it will work but it started running real rough and hard to start so i put the old one back on and nothing changed. I read the book and checked everything but still nothing and why my engine light came on and it started running rough.
its a 91 celica 1.6 (4AFE)
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Just trying to get a list of possible reasons my car is acting funny. I may have one problem or more than one problem.
-The dashboard lights started going on and off intermittently while driving. I could feel the power steering was off but the engine never shut off. This happened first while I was running the A/C, but eventually started happening when the A/C was off. When the A/C was on, the car made a funny squeal sound then more of a grinding. The A/C stopped blowing cold air.
-The same thing would happen when driving through water/rain (the dashboard lights would come on and it felt like the car died but it didnt).
-The other night, the SRS light came on, cars electrical started shutting off. Car died. Jump started it, it ran for a couple miles, then died again. This happened the whole 12 mile trip home.
-Mechanic came over, said it was my battery. Replaced battery. Car died again 3 days later. I noticed the lights on the dashboard came on more while making a turn, but they came on while driving too, so idk if that is a good assumption.
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A friend recently replaced the alternator on my 1991 740 Volvo GL. I got a used one that was a B230FT system, although not sure what that means. I think my 740 GL model is actually a B230F? Anyways, the alternators looked different, the old one was a Denso and didn't have blades. The new one is a Bosch with blades and slightly larger than the original. My friend had to make some modifications to the connections, basically clipping off the end of one of the wires, and exposing the wire so he could connect it to the new alternatlow beam headlights are too dimor.
My car is running, but my to see anything at night so I have to use the brights. And the dash lights, clock, and radio no longer work. The radio does not have "code" on it. It doesn't turn on at all. My mechanic says we have the wrong alternator on there, that the electrical system is different. But other sources said it would work fine. Is this true? Could the wire that he stripped and connected not be fully grounded resulting in these weird electrical failures? I'm still driving the car to work, but it makes me nervous.
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I have a 91 Ranger that the A/C was working great in but all of a sudden it stopped working even the fan. I turned it of and back on and it started again but then just stopped for good I can get the fan to work sometime, but no cold air. What it might be?
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The radio in my 1991 Honda Civic has been dying a slow death over the past year. First it would stop working if the weather was too hot. Then it would only work sporadically, finally it almost never worked. Whenever the radio stopped working, there would be a loud electrical "pop" sound, so I thought it might have a short. Yesterday my husband fixed the upper rear brake light (cleaned contacts) so it would pass inspection. Now the radio works perfectly! Are the brake lights and radio on the same circuit?
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I have a 1991 F-250 Supercab with the 7.3 L Diesel and twin fuel tanks.Recently the gauge sender for the forward tank stopped working. Ford tells me that the sending unit is obsolete. Perhaps they want me to buy a new truck. I recently found a NOS sender on E-bay but it is supposedly for the plastic fuel tank and mine is the steel tank. What steps would I need to take to make this sender work in my truck? Do I need to eliminate a ground wire, add aground wire, or make up insulators to prevent the sender shorting out on the steel tank?
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I have a 1990 volvo 240 dl and the gas gauge no longer works. Just wondering if there's anything I can do to fix it.
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I have a 2005 Volvo V50.The radio and CD changer will not come on when you push on. There is no display for the radio & CD player. There is dispaly for the heating & cooling systems. The speaker settings have dispaly. It is not a fuse. I had them checked. I just got up one morning and it would not work.
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I have an issue with my 960 wagon. When I first got the car this past July, the AC light was flashing. I ignored it because I didn't really need the AC. I knew the heat worked fine, which I need up here in the northeast. However, a week ago or so the heat suddenly stopped working. It worked fine in the morning. I parked the car in a lot, came back about five hours later, and no heat.
I found the sheet with the AC diagnostic codes on it, and followed the procedure to get the codes.
[URL]........................
I'm getting the code 132 every time I do the diagnostic, and sometimes I also get 161. Of the three times on three different days I've done the diagnostic, the 161 only came up once.
In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor
Open Circuit Or Short Circuit To 12 Volts .......... 132
Solar Sensor ......................................... 161
I'm not sure where the in-vehicle temperature sensor is. Is it in the dome light? It says the "courtesy light fixture" in the docs, so I'm not sure this is the same thing. The dome light is not currently connected in my car. I have two of them in the garage but neither ever produced light when plugged in, and the heat worked fine all during that time, so I didn't worry about it. It was only until a week ago or so that the heat stopped working.
The temp panel controls work fine. Blower blows as needed, vents switch no problem. Recirculate actuates. No heat.
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Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
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I have a 91 Honda civic hatchback base model 1.5L and I am having serious electrical problems. My wife took the car to town and when she got back all the lights quit working and it just sits there and clicks if I don't remove the main relay. But the main relay also controls the fuel pump. Have already replaced main relay?
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I was on my way home from work when my speakers suddenly stopped working. I tried changing stations and switching to CDs, but sound still refused to play. My head unit works perfectly fine. Every 5 minutes or so if the radio is left on, sound will come from the speakers on the right side of the car, but only for roughly 5 seconds before the sound disappears again. When this happens, the volume knob does not work and the sound cannot be turned down.
I have checked all three fuse boxes and nothing seems to be wrong. I have also checked behind the head unit and there are no problems as far as wiring is concerned. Is it possible that my amp just needs replaced, or is there something else that could have gone wrong?
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I am a grad student hoping my car will hang in there till graduation next year. I have about 227,000 miles on my Honda Accord Wagon and recently the odometer stopped working, S light started flashing, and the check engine light came on. This only happens sometimes, and the check engine light does not always come on when the S light flashes and odometer stops working. I've continued driving the car to see what happens and so far, no problems have come up. I have driven another 1000 miles and am hoping I can just ignore the problem and continue driving the vehicle since I am not in a position to fix it or get a new car.
Recently I passed my California emissions test and she seems to be running smooth. Any thoughts or warnings as to why sometimes these signals happen?
I have to drive with GPS on all the time to know my speed, but other than that I feel OK.
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Are you on the trailer life website as well? I think I've seen you there. I noticed you had a Touareg too. Do you pull a Touareg behind a Motorhome? I was wondering if the Treg can be used as a tow vehicle.
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