Volvo :: 1990 740 Getting Good Spark But Will Not Start
Mar 7, 2009
My 1990 740 will not start. These are the tests I have completed:
Starter and battery are in good condition.
The fuel pump works, it delivers fuel pressure on initial starting.
The plugs are new and gaped correctly.
I am getting a good spark at all plugs.
I have tested for power at the cold start valve. It is connected to the top of the starter and is at 9 volts while starting the engine.
The timing belt is new and is operating correctly. The engine is timed correctly.
I have noticed that there is no fuel getting to the plugs. I pulled one and it is dry.
The code is 3-2-1. Cold Start valve? It is 75 degrees.....the car should start?
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I've got a 90 240 DL that stopped dead and won't restart. Hit it with starter fluid and it fires off, but stops. Had no way of testing fuel pressure, so replaced in-line pump. Tank pump runs, can hear it through filler opening. Problem persists, even with new pump and filter. Pulled vac line to FPR but no gas leaks there. Also, new plugs, distributor cap and rotor, new air filter. Pulled MAF sensor plug, still no start. Checked FP relay (also spare) and jumped FP relay to test. No go. Where do I go now? Should I check computer codes? Replace FP regulator, crank sensor? Everything? Can the on-board computer be bad?
Trying to find a path to go on since the new pump seems to give plenty of pressure.
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I own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL. It cut off at a stop light one day and now it will not start. It seems to be a fuel related issue, if I squirt staring fluid into the intake it will start but cuts off immediately. I removed the fuel line that connects to the injectors and no fuel is coming out. I checked both the number 1 and 11 fuses both are fine. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the fuel pump relay.
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I have a 95-960 [straight 6] that doesn't want to start!
I parked the car roughly 8 weeks ago, yesterday I went to start it! ..firstly the battery had gone flat, No big problem, the battery is only about 6months old so I whipped out the car starter battery pack thingy [as I Have done in the past after a long time parked] but to my dismay it didn't kick! firstly i was concerned that the fuel pump may have *** it's self, so I cracked the fuel line at the engine and turned the ignition on!..plenty of fuel!Next I take one of the coil packs out and turn it over again...NO SPARK!..I only just parked it here a couple of month ago and it was fine..
the car normally runs faultlessly and has never not started in the past, it has all new timing belt and tensioner fitted a couple of thousand k's ago, new battery, plenty of fuel, and less than 200,000kms on the clock..
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Recently replaced alternator on Volvo 240 dl (covered under warranty). Battery checked numerous times and comes back as working perfectly fine. For some reason the battery is not taking a charge from the alternator or something is draining the battery too fast for the alternator to charge the battery. Regardless, after driving the car to and from the car either will not start (but jump starts instantly).
Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
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1990 Volvo 760 4 cyl. Turbo. Drove the car to work, everything fine. Got off work, car wouldn't start. Cranked but wouldn't start. It was getting spark. Changed the fuel filter, it ran perfect for a month. Drove it to town a month later, shut it off, then trying to start it, would crank and crank eventually start but run real rough. We got it home....barely.
Replaced the fuel filter again. Still wouldn't run right.
Replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Same problem.
Replaced the throttle positioning switch. Same problem. Replaced the air control valve. same problem.
Found out that this car has an on board diagnostic doo hickey.
Found out how to check each sensor and component individually.
All sensors and components are working. Checked both fuel pumps and they are working. If I unplug the air flow sensor and the air control valve sensor, I can start the car using starter fluid and it will idle all day with out missing a lick.If I plug in either one of the sensors, it will kill it immediately.I don’t know what else to do to make this machine run.
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OK, so I have a friend with a '89 Volvo 240 which has trouble starting. He usually can get it started by cranking and pumping the gas pedal furiously. This usually gets the car started quickly, although today it barely sputters (seems to want to start after lots of manic foot pumping, but ultimately fails).
I get spark, so I'm assuming the crank position sensor is working. I believe I hear both pumps running, and shorting fuses 4&6 doesn't make it start. I replaced the in-tank pump last year.
I do not have a fuel pressure gauge (let alone the tap this car requires to test it, for whatever reason). I do have a vacuum gauge, and a multimeter.
Neither the ECU (pin 2) or EZK (pin 6) report codes after I cleared them and tried starting the engine. They're both 1-1-1 in other words.
Another problem he reports is that after driving a long distance (more than a few blocks) the starter won't run unless the engine sits for at least 30 minutes.
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My '90 240 will not start. When I turn the key to Acc. or Start I hear a whirring sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator so I assume the fuel pump is not an issue. The engine will not even crank. I assume it is the ignition coil or the starter but I am unsure. As an FYI, the battery and plugs are good.
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I just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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I have a 1990 integra gs 5spd and I am having a difficult time getting my engine to fire. I have replaced the distributor, spark plugs,spark plug wires, ECU and of course the main relay. The engine cranks but im not getting any spark. I have been at this for two weeks straight now without any luck. Yes my timing belt is fine.
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
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My beautiful 1990 Volvo 240 will not shift into 4th gear! It is an automatic. The OD light will go on and off and I can hear it click when I turn it on. I just noticed that when getting on the highway it seemed as if the RPM was a little too high so I started paying more attention to which gear it was in and noticed today that it stays in 3rd gear.
I have already replaced the fuse #11. With the OD seemingly working fine, should I mess with the relay?
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1990 Volvo 240. The ac doesn't work and about 6 yrs ago it was converted to r134a. How can I check it see whats wrong?
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My truck is a 1990 F-150 with the 351. I was replacing the spark plugs last night, got it all wrapped up and everything squared away, and after firing the truck up I noticed a ticking noise. It was not there before I replaced the old plugs, and it is not at all loud. I can hardly hear it with the hood closed. It appears to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. It does not misfire when its idling, and it revs smoothly. However, while driving it is noticeably choppy and feels sluggish.
Any thoughts on what it could be? I used dielectric grease on the boots, but I did not replace the plug wires themselves, or the distributor cap. I am probably going to replace the plug wires today though, because the plugs I took out were not in good condition and its been a bit too long since I replaced them last. Its also worth noting this engine is less than years old. This is a frustrating problem because I've replaced the spark plugs on her before, so I'm not quite sure what I did wrong this time.
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I have a 1990 volvo 240 dl and the gas gauge no longer works. Just wondering if there's anything I can do to fix it.
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My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
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My 1990 Volvo 760 turbo has a problem. The brakes are sometimes hard to depress (although they work). When this happens, there are accompanying problems with sluggish acceleration and difficulty with the automatic shifting. What's happening?
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Got a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
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I drive a 1990 240 with close to 300,000 miles on it. Haven’t had any troubles with it in the 1-2 years I’ve had it.
Recently went in to get my smog checked and failed two of the three tests: the functional and emissions. I've attached the VIR.
Mechanic said there might be a leak, so a buddy of mine checked the engine for a vacuum leak but couldn’t find anything.
What are the common sources for a failed smog check? I plan on getting a diagnostic later in the week/
smogcheckVIR.png ( 1.93MB )
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