Volvo :: 1988 245 - Hard To Start After Sitting Intermittently - Crank For 3 Seconds
Nov 15, 2013
My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
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About 6 weeks ago I became the proud owner of an '88 240 wagon with ~ 235,000 miles.
When turning the key over to start Lucy (that's her name) most times she will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before indeed starting. I can avoid those 3 to 5 excruciatingly long seconds if I let her crank for a time or two then let her rest for a second - after that she will start up immediately when I turn the key again. This situation happens probably 14 times out of 15. The 15th she will start like a dream the first time. I have had the battery tested (although I could not find a date on the battery and the previous owner did not know when it was purchased), and I have completed a full tune up (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) among other maintenance issues as well.
Attached File(s)
Lucy.JPG ( 3.4MB )
Lucy_Under_the_Hood.JPG ( 3.87MB )
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I was driving home just a few minutes ago when my headlights flickered and then cut out for a few seconds. They came back on, but I hadn't driven another 1/2 mile when they flickered again and went off for a further few seconds. This was repeated once more about a mile later, though when I pulled over (first time I was able to do so), they stayed off til after I restarted the car and banged on the dashboard.
Further symptoms: running lights, brake lights, and tail lights seem unaffected. Turning the switch for the headlights off and back on does not affect the issue.
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i have an 88 volvo 240 wagon with 89K miles on it... it's been passed down through the family, is in great shape and is a joy to own. i have always have it serviced at the volvo dealership and recently had a bunch of work done to it including complete lube, oil and filter change, replaced the radiator overflow cap, replaced a leaking valve cover gasket, replaced the oil pan gasket, replaced the rear diff gasket and added oil, and replaced the sway bar links (it was an expensive visit).
to my dismay, on the way home, accelerating hard up a hill, something under the car started to rattle and black smoke started coming out of the back of the car. i took it back to the dealership and they replaced a leaking seal that they said was the problem, on the way home, same thing with the rattle and smoke happened on the same hill... maybe just stop driving on that hill, right? so i took it back and they changed the oil again (the oil levels were a bit high) and said they couldn't find anything wrong... drove the car home and seemed not to have the problem (though i did take it easy on the hill).
so today, i take the car out for a drive (usually just drive it on the weekend), and accelerating hard up the same hill i get the same rattling and black smoke that continues until i let off the acceleration. by the time i get home (a couple blocks later), it's like nothing ever happened.
Is it safe to drive as long as i don't accelerate hard? Never had this issue before all the work was done, kind of seems like i should take the car back to the dealership, but this would be the 4th time for the same issue...
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When my car sits for a while and i go start it i hear for the first 2 seconds a noise then it goes away until i start it up next time after sitting for a while. It sounds kind of like a diesel.
I pulled the oil pan and checked the bearings they are all fine... to me it sounds like it could be something in the top end because the longer it sits, the oil drains out of the top end and when i start it the oil gets pumped back up to the top and stops the noise....but what is it?
I was thinking of checking the valve caps for intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge to see if there's a gap between the camshaft lobe which would make a noise...but more of a ticking...I am not hearing a ticking though.
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3 months ago I bought a beautiful dark-blue 1988 Volvo 240, manual transmission. This is my first Volvo and I'm already hooked! It's the car that's going to teach me to work on cars because for the most part it's beautifully simple. I bought a repair manual to be prepared, and have now encountered my first real issue.
For several months, even in the rain, it would start and run beautifully. Now when it sits in the rain overnight it will not start the following morning, or until the weather subsides. Once it has a few hours to "dry out" after the rain and humidity stops it starts beautifully. In the wet weather it wants to start, the starter goes and goes and at points it sounds like it almost catches, though ultimately won't. I imagine moisture is getting in somewhere and preventing spark at some point in the ignition system, but, like I mentioned, I'm new to this. Where to begin; what I should replace to begin troubleshooting this?
In a separate issue I can't get fuses for the rear tail/brake lights to keep from blowing when I replace them.
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I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL that I just replaced the battery. It started right up after it was installed. We drove it home and parked it for one week without trying to start it again because we still have parts to buy to pass safety. I live in UT. My son went out to start it today and it would not make any sound or turn over. What should I check next? Starter Solenoid? Alternator?
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I have an 88 244 dl. I recently changed the battery charge bulb in the instrument cluster and no I have a no start. The starter engages and the motor turns over but makes no attempt to start. I checked all the fuses including the 25 amp fuse under the hood.
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I have tried about everything i know about cars on this truck!! It ran great when I got it until a head gasket got blown so I tore into it and replaced them both torqued heads to specs. Made sure valves wasn't to tight. Distributor is in correct spot timing is correct had ignition module tested good!!! Coil tested good replaced both fuel pumps and put new tank and sending unit in the truck b/c it needed it new fuel filter replaced return line firing order is correct 1 4 2 5 3 6 it is getting fire it will crank and crank sometimes act like it is going to start then not also I can get it to run for about 3 sec on 3 or 2 cylinders it seems to have plenty of compression as well!! only thing really I can think of that could be wrong is computer? Also one last detail tried pull starting it as well still wouldn't go.... V6 2.9L...
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My 1990 Volvo 760 turbo has a problem. The brakes are sometimes hard to depress (although they work). When this happens, there are accompanying problems with sluggish acceleration and difficulty with the automatic shifting. What's happening?
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I have a 1988 Camaro with a v6 engine and it has 70,000 original miles on it. problem is that it is hard to start when its cold so i changed the fuel filter because i read it can be the problem because it might be clogged. so after changing the filter it started and ran really good but after a couple of days now it starts to hesitate and stutter on take off and thru out the whole drive. so far i have changed the distributor cap and the ignition control module but still has same problem.
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Car ran great prior to sitting for 4 months. Tried to jump it and it wouldn't turn over, so i figure the battery was dead. I replaced the batter with a new one, had fresh fuel added.
I then thought perhaps it might be the started, so I removed it and had it tested and it passed (it's working). Car still wont crank. I turn the key and there is nothing not a sound, except the fuel pump. No crank nor click? Not sure where to go from here?
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I have a 2003 Saturn Ion-3 that I bought a few months ago. It has 157,000 mile and runs great when it will start. Here is the issue: after the car has sat for several hours it seems to flood and starts hard. I end up putting the accelerator to the floor and this seems to work. I have to crank the engine repeatedly and when it catches I hold it to the floor until the engine clears (lots of chugging and white/blue smoke until it clears) and then runs just fine. If the car sits for a short period, it starts ok. The longer it sits, the harder it is to start (i.e overnight or a whole shift at work).
If the car sits for several days it starts just fine. It acts as if it floods while it sits so I changed the Coolant Temp Sensor, still acted up. I then checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve (55 psi) and noticed that it lost pressure as it sat. I assumed that the injectors were leaking and had them rebuilt (by Mr Injector). The flow bench results did not show and leaking. I reinstalled them along with new spark plugs and the car started up immediately and ran/drove great. This morning was the first morning of sitting all night and it would not start again. It tries to fire but will not catch. I tired to have the CEL code read at autozone but they told me my lighter wasn't working and the couldn't do it (although it runs my GPS just fine).
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So here is a little background on my car have owned it for 1 1/2 years, never had any issues. just recently over the past month the car has trouble starting the first try after sitting for a hour or longer. I took it to the dealer for an oil change and had them check the alternator, battery, and starter. All came back perfectly fine. I also had the spark plugs, and all coil packs replaced assuming this would resolve any issues.
So after doing all of that still have the problem, I have read numerous post that seem similar but have not seen an actual answer. My car is not throwing any check engine lights or anything. Trying to avoid taking it to the dealer to have them waste my time and money. By the way my car only has 38k miles on it second owner.
So far I see it could be
CTS
MAF
Crank Sensor
etc ...
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I've been suffering for this issue for quite a while. My passat 06 is experience a hard time to start up after sitting over night. The first attempt in the morning is always shaky. Then, it starts up okay during the day. Even like after driving 5 mins and I can restart it without any problem. But it's the first time of the day that troubles me.
And some history, my battery died completely like 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Duracell. At first, it has no problem start up at all. But there was one day I forgot to turn of the lights and leaved my car over night.
The next morning, I was able to start it but with some difficulty. Since then, I have been experiencing hard times in starting up. Need to point out the issue? I'm really afraid to have a dead battery in a parking lot 1 hour away from my apartment again ..
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I had the two wiring harnesses replaced with used ones, by Volvo at Christmas time on my 1995 940 Turbo. Things were heavenly and reliable until a week ago. My wife phoned me to tell me she could not start the car. I went and tried. It would crank, but not catch. I tried holding the pedal to the floor, but no luck. I had it towed to Volvo, but on the Monday, it started and it did all week long.
I drove it Saturday morning on errands. It was fine. My son moved it out onto the street and I went to use it an hour later and it wouldn't start. After about five hours, I tried it and it started rough but with gas it normalized.
I've asked whoever uses it in the family to give it gas in Park, before moving to get everything working. As the car is only driven once or twice a week, now that winter is over, I haven't tested my theory.
I really like the car, but my wife and I have to have confidence that it will start when we need it to. We have always had the vehicle maintained. I have wondered if it has anything to do with fuel injectors, but readily admit to not knowing anything.
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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Increasingly, my s70 won't start. Turn key and nothing When this first occurred this spring I had it towed to my mechanic. He found that a starter cable was starting to detach. He re attached and started all summer with a few exceptions. Now this fall it is not starting every couple of days. Turn key and nothing. Have if towed to the mechanic and it starts fine. So should I have the starter replaced?
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This question is for recommendations on whether to have the dealer service (clean) the Camry's ignitors
In a previous posting, I mentioned that my Camry was hard to start after sitting in the garage for 2-3 days. Dealer "diagnosed" (guessed?) it as a weak battery, tho the cranking speed seemed pretty normal (peppy)to me. My first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors.
I asked my regular mechanic for an opinion on cleaning and he pretty much said "don't" unless there isa specific problem (eg engine check lite).
Could I hear from the group whether ignitor cleaning ($210) as a "preventive maintenance" is a good idea? I am not about to disassemble the throttle body or some such and do it myself, but I AM OK with adding acan to my gas tank, if it won't hurt and can work.
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Car is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
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I have a 2003 Volvo XC90, 2.5T AWD ... Since two weeks no start, no crank, when I turn the key in the ignition nothing happened, only the navigation screen is going off. I try the second key and it is doing the same. It happened when battery goes very low.
I try to scan it with different scanners and the same DTC is showing: (ECM-720A: Immobiliser communication)
Someone said I must remove the ECM and the ECU, read the both and use "Volvo Synchro V1.4 Loader" synchronize and program the key but i do not really know how to do it. Is it possible to do immo off ?
The VIN number is: YV1CZ59G741071108
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