On my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
View 1 RepliesDoes the XC90 have a very weak radio reception? Some of the FM stations that were normally very strong in my other cars were weak at the XC90, and some of the AM stations that were normally okay got no signal at all at the XC90. Is there anything I can do to boose the radio reception?
View 19 RepliesI have an '86 245 with an intermittant engine stutter for the last several months. This only happens after the car has been running for about 20 minutes or on a hot day. It will stutter for several seconds (some times die) and then function normally for the next 5 to 30 minutes before it stutters again.The car was tuned up about 1 month before the problem startedI replaced the fuel pump relay, did not work. The shop told me the in tank pump was bad so they replaced that. This seemed to fix the problem but a month later it started to do it again.
View 1 RepliesOne of the rear doors on my 86 wagon won't unlock. The lock button goes up and down, both manually and automatically, but the door won't open and it feels as though it is still locked. I'd rather not cut a hole in the door panel! Perhaps I should have a locksmith get the door open and then I should remove the door panel to lube the locking mechanism? Is there any way to lube things without removing the door panel or consulting a locksmith? I can roll the window up and down.
View 2 RepliesAfter fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
View 1 Replies1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
View 2 RepliesI just purchased a 1986 Volvo 240DL, it runs great, but slow and the Ac is like ice. Only real issues are a rattling coming from the rear(exhaust mount I think) and
most importantly the steering is super light. No effort required at all.
After driving a while, shut down the engine, return to start a half-hour later, no response when key turned. Wait a while, everything's fine. We've chased all the under hood wiring connectors, all are clean and tight. Replaced the ignition switch. Have not yet been able to get it to fail when it's in the mechanic's shop. Problem worse in warmer weather, but it has misbehaved in mid-December, too.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2009 S60 2.5T that has trouble starting in temps around 25 degrees and below. It skips/hesitates when cranking.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with the 1.6L in-line 4 cylinder engine w/ 160K miles. Over the last few months, I have noticed that when I run the A/C, the car has been at idle for a while, like at a stop light or in park at idle, and I have been driving the car for awhile in the afternoon (summer here), the engine sputters and hesitates on acceleration. The engine makes a pinging, sounds as if it's misfiring and then bolts like lightening, especially when I turn the A/C off. The mpg has declined. I barely get 21 mpg. The car does not have an inline fuel filter, only the "sock" in the tank. I have changed the spark plugs, plugs wires and have run two cans of Sea Foam FI cleaner through the fuel system and the problem still persists.
I am clueless to what could be causing this other than my injectors are still dirty and need a heavy duty cleaning. Could it be an alternator problem because I have noticed the dash lights and headlights get brighter. Could the ignition coil be going out. The car idles fine and the problem disappears when I shut the A/C off and only seems to do this when the weather is hot!
I've had the car for 130k/2 yrs, and been very happy with it. Will definitely buy another. That said, I'm puzzled. Yesterday and today, after it had run for 10-20 minutes at surface-street speeds (so was warmed up), I got stuck at a lengthy traffic light and noticed a distinct smell of gasoline - not other cars' exhaust, but a fuel smell coming in on the blown air in the cabin. I have done no mechanical work on the car, or spilled gas into the glove box.
View 6 RepliesRecently installed 35w Canbus Slim Ballast 6000k HIDs into my 2014.5 Camry SE projector headlights (black bezel). For some reason it seems like the Halogens lit up better. I get very poor lighting, and when I drive on the highway at night it barely lights up the signs. I don't know if I need to adjust the angle of the projector because the beams seem kind of low or if I need to upgrade the ballast to a 55w. Also not sure if the housing or the stock wiring can handle the 55w without causing damage.
View 14 RepliesAs in lunge. I first noticed this about two months ago (I bought the car three months ago) when I was braking on straight, level ground, but it was raining and I was crossing railroad tracks while I was braking. Fortunately, no one was in front of me. The sensation wasn't merely a loss of braking traction (sliding), this felt like a momentary, power mode/full throttle thrust. Straight forward. At the time, I was clearly caught off guard, but the effect/sensation was quite momentary, almost as if someone had mildly rear-ended me.
Braking after that moment was normal. The effect didn't replicate itself again until recently when I was braking for a stoplight on a sh-tty concrete road where the sections have a slight tilt to them. This is exaggerated of course, but the sections are like this: ///////, meaning there is a 1/4 to 1" dropoff from one section to the next. there is one particularly pronounced dropoff close to the stoplight. The effect happened again and it is reproducible. Again, it is not merely the sensation of taking your foot off the brake, but one of a momentary punch of acceleration. No appreciable sound of higher engine revs.
So I installed a new f23 turbo about a month ago now. Doug over at frankenturbo has been working with me to tune my car, but we have figured there is a possible boost leak. I've checked all my hoses and can not find any bad connections. My current setup is a forge twintercooler, cts intake, and a ecs boost gauge. I've been over everything 3 times now and can not see where anything could be leaking. I can tell you when in low rpm's the power and boost is very weak. Doug suggested to turn the wastegate up and we did. Still no result for the low rpm to build boost. I'm at a loss.
View 7 RepliesMy a/c is weak and the compressor clutch is on all the time. What causes that?
View 14 RepliesAs you can glean from Discussion Title, I have a 97 Honda Accord that has been weak in producing cold air with the a/c on since we bought it three years ago. The car has been the "third car" for kids to drive so not a big deal. Now that one of the "kids" is commuting this summer to an internship, the hot car is a problem. I drove the car this morning as I just drive to the train, and noticed mist coming out of the dashboard vents when the a/c was on. The mist stopped when the a/c was turned off.
Does this misting mean we have an evaporator core leak, or other problem? It certainly doesn't seem like just a freon boost is needed. If the evaporator core needs to be replaced, how bad a job is that? I replaced one in a '72 Plymouth Duster once and didn't seem so bad.
my low beam is to weak with original lights,led kit for beam projector is good?
View 3 RepliesMy problem started five months ago and was very intermittent until now. The engine would run rough at start up either cold of hot and then run fine after about two or three miles. Now it runs rough all the time. I have installed a new ignition coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs. The engine starts ok but it runs rough and when I pull the spark plug wires one at a time,while it is running, the spark is very weak on cylinders 2 and 4. The spark on the other two cylinders looks good. I have checked the connector on the powertrain control module, which is a EEC-V, and there doesn't seem to be any bad connections there.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat GLS. Bought it used just the other day with no radio in it. I put my after market Blaupunkt in it today and it took me seriously 5seconds. Instantly had sound, but it was only coming from the driver's side front and rear, but the volume was weak in the rear. I was going to look for the amp, but idk if it had the monsoon sound or not. Has 4 speakers and 4 tweeters, but i'm not sure if it's the Monsoon sound or Premium.
why my antenna is very weak as well? why I have weak/no sound output from my speakers, if I have premium or monsoon sound and why I have such a weak antenna and how to fix all of these things.
I'm having issues with my Sante Fe. 6cyl model, 130k-ish miles.
The door lock issue is ongoing and hasn't been more than an inconvenience. When you try and use the power locks, often it doesn't completely lock the front doors. Other times they don't move at all. Sometimes they work fine. It is kind of a crap shoot. So...that is number one. Thought I would add it in while
This week it has developed an RPM surge usually between 2k and 3k rpms. It has happened with the air on and the air off. I tried being gentler on the pedal and that seemed to make it less frequent but I was also driving REALLY slow.
I put the car in manual (auto-stick or whatever it is called) and while it waited until nearly red-line to shift, it did not seem to have the issue. I am pretty sure the car is actually shifting gears which is causing the surge. What is causing it and there are no other issues.