Volvo :: 1986 240DL Steering Too Light / Rattling Coming From Rear Side
Apr 9, 2015
I just purchased a 1986 Volvo 240DL, it runs great, but slow and the Ac is like ice. Only real issues are a rattling coming from the rear(exhaust mount I think) and
most importantly the steering is super light. No effort required at all.
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My 1988 240DL is miss firing #4 cylinder. I cannot get it to fire. this is what I have done:
Swapped plug wires with the #3 wire. Miss fire does not follow the wire
Swapped plugs with #1 plug. Miss fire does not follow the plug
Tested injector power with a tester and it lights up properly
Replaces #4 injector with a new one, still miss fires.
Replaced cap and rotor
Compression test shows 150 LB in #4
sworn and thrown a few tools, still miss fires.
Spark seems good with the plug out and grounded on the block. What else should I test and or try...
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One of the rear doors on my 86 wagon won't unlock. The lock button goes up and down, both manually and automatically, but the door won't open and it feels as though it is still locked. I'd rather not cut a hole in the door panel! Perhaps I should have a locksmith get the door open and then I should remove the door panel to lube the locking mechanism? Is there any way to lube things without removing the door panel or consulting a locksmith? I can roll the window up and down.
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I was recently given my first Volvo. Its an 88 240dl. While driving my temp gauge climbs up to the red and sometimes hovers inside of it. It normally climbs up at stop signs and comes down on straight always then climbs right back up close to red. When the gauge was in the red i stopped the car and popped the hood open to see that the engine was not actually overly hot.
first i replaced coolant. nothing
then i replaced the thermostat. nothing
flushed radiator. nothing
Today i finally had enough and decided to switch out the water pump with a new one hoping that it would solve the problem seeing as it still had the factory one on. It did nothing. the gauge continues to climb up. I did replace one of the two senders in hope that it would fix the gauge reading but nothing.
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My 1988 240DL wagon....the engine temp gauge is not working? is see the wire that goes to the sensor in the engine block, it is there and connected to the sensor. is there a way to test the wire? I have purchased a new sensor, but I have not replaced it yet.
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I have an '86 245 with an intermittant engine stutter for the last several months. This only happens after the car has been running for about 20 minutes or on a hot day. It will stutter for several seconds (some times die) and then function normally for the next 5 to 30 minutes before it stutters again.The car was tuned up about 1 month before the problem startedI replaced the fuel pump relay, did not work. The shop told me the in tank pump was bad so they replaced that. This seemed to fix the problem but a month later it started to do it again.
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On my 86' 740 the cranking has been kinda lengthy and a bit weak as if the battery is going bad. I finally had an episode where the cranking and the start was stranding me. After three attempts and keeping the throttle wide opened it started. What is now strange is the crank is strong and faster as if something broke loose or got reset.
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I just bought my brand new 2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L SE 3 weeks ago and have put 4000kms on it so far and from last week I am getting a rattling noise from just behind my steering wheel while going over washboard surfaces every time. Feels like something plasticy is loose around the upper steering column which rattles every time I go over a washboard surface. My university campus has a lot of rumble strips to slow cars down and that is where I noticed this noise very clearly.
I have taken my car to the local dealer and the mechanic there have acknowledged the problem after comparing the noise with a new car there. He tightened some bolts around the lower steering rack apparently but the problem is still there. He says to bring the car in after the problems gets significantly worse because it is still not severe enough for him to diagnose it and find what is causing it. I do not know much severe I need to the let the problem get before they do something about it. The dealership still has the ticket open for me; I will probably try to visit them next week again.
This thread more or less describes the problem I am having : Steering wheel noise over bump .....
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After fixing no brake lights on my 86' 740 I still can't get the inner ones to work. To fix the problem I changed the brake lamp failure relay. The bulbs are good. The relay was used.
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1986 volvo turbo. I am at my wits end with my car. I know very little about car repair and maintenance and that alone makes me enraged.
So my car is very old and has not been taken care of before I owned it. It did misfire at idle speed before but very rarely, now it seems that ever since I put more oil in the misfires happen way more frequently.
I put in a synthetic 10w 30 oil and the engine is way more quiet now and the gas mileage is slightly better...but ever since I put it in the misfires are frequent. I do not know if it is a vacuum leak or a spark plug problem, or if it has something to do with the oil
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I have been little irritated with my noisy/rattling sound ride coming from passenger dash, my steering wheel area and some time front passenger belt. I have taken it to dealership and they could not hear anything so they duplicate the problem and no cation was taken. But they found out passenger side ball joint was loose , so they replaced that under warranty.
I wanna know if everyone sonata makes that noise when you go over little bumps on road, rail track crossing ? it just irritates me too much,,how ever the rattle/noise is not much, i cant hear if i have music on.
Yesterday I tapped on passenger side dash and there was a after tapping noise, like vibration. I don't know if its loose plastic or what. I am not able to detect the exact location where the noise coming from. but i am sure one noise is coming from steering wheel on every tiny bumps.
I want to fix it by myself now, cause sometimes noise is there and sometime not. Is there any way to detect the noise ? Noise- more like plastic noise, like loose plastic, hinges squeaking sound, rattling sound.
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I have a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt with 26700 miles on it and I have recently started hear some odd rattling noises from the back right tire area and I have looked under the car to make sure that there was not anything loose under there and I didn't see anything. The tires on getting pretty worn out and I have order a whole new set, but I am still very worried about that noise.
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On my way into work this morning, I started to notice a rattling sound coming from my left rear wheel. By the end of my :45 min drive, it was a loud continuous bang. After limping the car to my office, I inspected the recently repaired rear shock to find the bolts securing it to the vehicle were gone!
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I have a 1986 Volvo 240. It has a button to push on the stick shift to put it in 5th gear. It drives and works fine except when I downshift from 5th gear. ..then it seems confused and has a hard time getting back into gear, it kind of hesitates and lurches forward. It will not go into reverse after it has been in 5th gear until I turn off the ignition, and start it again.
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Just a few days ago I noticed a new rattling sound from the rear shelf (2012 SEL). Showed it to the dealership a few days. They are going to have a look at it next week.
I tried pressing at various placed with my hand but could not pinpoint where it was coming from but it appeared to be somewhere from within the rear shelf on the driver side. Sounding like some loose plastic clanking against some metal.
Thought I'd share this since the car appears to have this recurring issue of rattling from various places.
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Got my Prius v 5 in June and since then, there is the most obnoxious rattle coming from the back seat (passenger side). It's intermittent, depending on who's in the car with me. When I'm alone, it happens about 80% of the time. When my kids are in the car, it depends on which one and what seat they choose.
I've taken it to Toyota twice, and they're unable to detect the problem. I'm convinced that this is because the weight distribution is difficult to replicate. It is seriously making me crazy and I'm ready to turn the car in and get another (NOT a Toyota).
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There is non-stop rattling coming from the rear passenger side, near the seat belt return opening, it seems. It has rattled since I got it, but since it'll be a bit before I take it in for service, I thought I'd ask in case there was a TSB for this.
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So I brought my car in to an audio video place to have hush mat in the front doors to prevent a rattle noise from my bass. Turns out the rattle is coming from the window switches.
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I've noticed a rattling noise coming from under the front of my 02 toyota corolla. I looked under the car and there seems to be a piece of metal under the front of the car thats vibrating and making the noise. The piece of metal is almost directly in the middle front of the car, in-between the front tires. The sound seems to be most prominent when I accelerating or backing up.
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I picked up my GS350 this past saturday.
I took a 64 mile round trip drive yesterday with the audio between 16-22 volume and there's definite rattling coming from the right passenger side door.
This was through the Satellite Radio Feed. It wasn't all the songs but any songs with the extended drawn out bass you can here it rattle.
I'm about 115 miles in and will most likely take it in this week. There's nothing in the side door compartment...
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Mine is 2010 gen 3 Prius. I bought it brand new and about 6,500 miles. From the beginning, I sometimes hear a grinding and rattling sound coming from the right passenger side. It is not from plastics. It is mechanical sound. But the problem is it does not happen all the time. So we were hesitant to go to dealer because they will never find it. But it got more frequent with cold weather.
Now, it does make rasping buzzing sound like a loose fan usually after I start a car in the morning and the heater is kicked in. I don't think it has something to do with fan because if I just run it itself in high speed, you cannot hear it. It is just some bad combination that makes this sound that makes you go crazy.
We are afraid that something big will happen after the warranty is over but as we expected the dealer said they do not hear the sound. The sound comes out in low accelerating and disappears in high accelerating. Now I really regret having bought Hybrid. It looks like the dealershop has no clue where to look at. I think the sound gets worse with the cold weather.
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