Volvo :: 1985 245 Runs Unevenly And Now Starts Hard
Apr 18, 2015
I have an '85 245 that runs unevenly and now starts hard. I got a Noid Light to check the injectors. My question is: Should the light blink or flicker?
This video: [URL] .... shows the light blinking but it's not an '85 volvo. The wiring diagram for mine shows all the grounds connected together which could (I think) cause them all to inject when any cylinder fires, and thus cause (observed) rapid flickering, but seems like a waste of gas.
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Starts good cold and hot. Taking off like a grandpa on an evening drive don't notice a thing. Only codes that keep coming up are 2614 and 2617 which are cmp and ckp open curcuit codes and a software incompatibility code for FICM which is due to the updated software in the fresh FICM I installed. HPO pressures are good, has boost, idles smooth, revs nice when in park. New injectors (cause it was running rough especially cold before) and CMP and CKP (because of the above codes and didn't change)and ICP and IPR (last 2 installed because of HPO codes that are gone now with the IPR and ICP). Fuel pressure is 65psi (updated spring). When you step on it while driving it sputters and bucks like it's out of fuel, let off the throttle a bit and it purrs like a kitten. I'm a little stumped. I think it puffs a little white/blue smoke while it bucks.. not much tho. and it comes in little puffs. Took off filler cap and there is almost no blow by.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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I'm working on my sons 1985 Celica GT 22RE. He was having problems with it running rough.
I've isolated it down to the number 1 cylinder being starved on warm starts. If you cold start it the problem does not occur but if you let it sit warm for 15 minutes it will fire up but nothing from number one cylinder. Lots of spark but no firing. So I'm going to tear down the EFI and move the injector to see if the problem follows it. Will probably see if I'm getting any voltage to the injector while rough before tearing down.
I can't find anything about an injector not working once warm so I'm thinking it may be an ECU problem.
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My son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
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My girlfriend has a 245 that we bought her last year. It runs really well except that every once in a while it will refuse to start. It still cranks and will sometimes turn over after trying long enough, usually running rough for a minute or two but then starts to idle normally. I have followed the no-start/stall guide and I think it's an ignition issue. The fuel pump relay looks to have been replaced recently and when jumping the pumps from the fuse box they both come on. I'm thinking it's a lose connection somewhere in the ignition system due to it being an intermittent issue. Tested pin 15 on the coil and it gets 12 volts - what should I do next to shake this down?
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5 Speed Manual in an 85 740 GLE Diesel. The overdrive does not engage until the car has been running 15 minutes or so. What causes this?
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
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basically it runs rough and makes noise when AC is on. While it may not be perfect when off, it certainly is quieter. Check engine light just came on.
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My car starts up and it runs for about 5-10 min and then shuts off. then it will not start again while it is hot, if i leave it sit overnight then it will start again but the same problem will occur. the engine also has a misfire from the moment i start it up, how to diagnose this problem. And after you diagnose it can you tell me ways i can check the problems. for example if you say its the fuel pump tell me how to check to see if my pump is working.
Country: United States
Make: Toyota
Model: Celica GTS
Year: 2000
Engine: 2zzge
Already Tried: Here's what I've done to my car recently: I have new engine coils, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, new thermostat. I got my fuel injectors cleaned, new mass airflow sensor, new water pump.
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Does this sound like a choke issue? The car starts up fine and runs like a top. It even drives normally for about a mile, but then as the engine warms up it starts losing compression when I press the gas pedal. The engine runs fine when my foot isn't on the gas, but stutters and won't go anywhere when I'm pressing the gas.
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Here is my question.. 94 Z28 38K 6spd. Starts right up and runs well, for about 15-20 minutes then will shut down( like the key was turned off) When this happens I have no signal to either the ignition module or to the injectors.
This car was damaged by an idiot that flooded the dist. with coolant doing a flush. They replaced it with a Advance auto remain. This is when the trouble started. I did replace the I/M with an AC OEM Module, no change, verified all wiring from the computer to the Dist. and I/M. All checked out. I am thinking that the cheap remain unit is my problem and am looking to get the MSD Opti spark system to hopefully fix and to prevent this problem from happening again.
I cannot retrieve codes (94 won't flash CEL codes). Is there any other method of diag I could use to verify my suspicions. Oh, there is not response from the Tech either once the engine dies.
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My Prius waste gas by always starting the engine. Even with the battery indicator at full charge. Every time the Prius is shut down, like leaving the car to go into the store for 3 minutes or more or backing Prius out of garage, the engine starts up and runs for about 4 minutes, regardless of being fully charge or not.
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2010 Cobalt, LS 2.2 Ecotec, with 13.7k miles. Oil level normal and battery voltage = 12.5V.
I've bought the car new in Feb. 2001. Car started and ran normally for the work commute on Friday, 9/2. Today the Cobalt starts normally, runs for 2-3 seconds, and then stalls. The accelerator has no effect. It's already been towed to the dealer..
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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I'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
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One of my friends recently asked me to change the timing belt on his 2004 Passat 1.8T. I put on everything as instructed by the manual that the parts department gave me. However, when I start the engine, it runs perfectly for about three seconds, then starts rattling, and stalls out. I took the belt off and put it back on three times and yet, it still continues. This rattling seems to be coming somewhere from within the exhaust system near the engine and sounds like a back-fire. The check engine light also appears when this begins happening. I replaced everything, water pump, pully, tensioner, and etc. Note, I am a professional mechanic and have worked on several Volkswagen cars, including my own, but I never encountered a problem like this one.
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I'm driving a 1995 Mazda Protege with about 200,000 miles. It has been generally pretty reliable, and I have fixed things as necessary, but a DNR has been in place for awhile. The water pump is leaking coolant and need replacing it, so I'm driving it (and keeping the coolant topped off) while I arrange to get something else. The temp gauge stays in the normal range.
Yesterday on the road the car began to lose electrical power: the radio turned off, the gauge cluster and then the headlights got dimmer, etc. But it continued to run ok. When I got where I was going, I parked it for a few hours, then on the return trip the car started fine, the headlights and gauges were bright, but over the course of about half-an-hour they began to dim again. The car continued to run ok until I got where I was going and parked it. I'm not sure I want to drive it again until I figure out what's going on.
The battery is about six months old, and the alternator was replaced about two years ago. The serpentine belt is in place and seems to be in good condition. Battery connections and cables look ok. The "charging" warning light has never come on. The water pump has been leaking for a couple weeks, but this is the first time the electrics have acted weird. Would the alternator go bad this soon? Does the water pump affect the electrics? What do I look for?
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Car starts runs rough for a few seconds then shuts off (spark plugs and 2 coils were replaced a few months ago). Coolant reservoir level was way low so I filled to the full line, kept the cap off to cycle. During the time the car starts, the coolant from the reservoir violently "boils" over (out of the reservoir). Huge amount of white smoke from the rear exhaust and a burning smell.
Used Techstream and got the following codes:
Engine and ECT: P0117, P0302, P3190, P3191
Hybrid Control: P0A0F
Intermittently get misfile codes but this time around they did not return.
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I have recently acquired a 1997 F250 LD (same body as the 150)the exhaust system is screwed(currently rebuilding it due to some IDIOT trying to cut out the cats with a grinder and cutoff wheel) and it won't idle (runs alright with a little finessing of the throttle) but after I get the exhaust rebuilt to where the O2 sensors get the proper flow I was going to clean the IAC valve but was wondering if the exhaust not feeding right would cause idle issues a well. Put things in a nutshell...the truck will run but will not idle. IAC Probs, Exhaust Probs, or combination of both??
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