Volvo :: 1985 245 Refuse To Start Intermittently
Feb 11, 2014
My girlfriend has a 245 that we bought her last year. It runs really well except that every once in a while it will refuse to start. It still cranks and will sometimes turn over after trying long enough, usually running rough for a minute or two but then starts to idle normally. I have followed the no-start/stall guide and I think it's an ignition issue. The fuel pump relay looks to have been replaced recently and when jumping the pumps from the fuse box they both come on. I'm thinking it's a lose connection somewhere in the ignition system due to it being an intermittent issue. Tested pin 15 on the coil and it gets 12 volts - what should I do next to shake this down?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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Increasingly, my s70 won't start. Turn key and nothing When this first occurred this spring I had it towed to my mechanic. He found that a starter cable was starting to detach. He re attached and started all summer with a few exceptions. Now this fall it is not starting every couple of days. Turn key and nothing. Have if towed to the mechanic and it starts fine. So should I have the starter replaced?
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My son have a 1985 Volvo 244 DL. The engine turn over but no spark. We change the coil and check the fuse in side the car driver side.
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We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
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5 Speed Manual in an 85 740 GLE Diesel. The overdrive does not engage until the car has been running 15 minutes or so. What causes this?
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My 245 is running great. Love this car to death. I have been experiencing something weird. The car will start hard after sitting intermittently. It'll crank for 3 seconds and if I press the gas pedal it will fire right up. If I don't touch the pedal, itll will continue to crank...eventually sputtering and then firing. It will usually fore up right away if I don't let it sit for hours. I haven't exactly narrowed it down to a fuel prime issue, but that's kind of what it seems like to me. Are there any check valves or anything like that I could look into?
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I have an '85 245 that runs unevenly and now starts hard. I got a Noid Light to check the injectors. My question is: Should the light blink or flicker?
This video: [URL] .... shows the light blinking but it's not an '85 volvo. The wiring diagram for mine shows all the grounds connected together which could (I think) cause them all to inject when any cylinder fires, and thus cause (observed) rapid flickering, but seems like a waste of gas.
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Our 1985 Volvo 740 GLE sedan will intermittently not start. The engine turns over, just won't go. Let it sit a bit and it starts right up again. No rhyme or reason or pattern to the failure.
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what part is causing car to be unable to idle without me keeping my foot on gas till it's warmed up in morning? It does not act like that at lunchtime & 5pm no matter what the temp gauge reads when I get in it at lunchtime & 5pm: at those times, it just cranks and stays on till I shut it off.
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My hyundai accent 2004 is not starting after the cluch plate and disc were replaced. what could be responsible?
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1985 2.3L... New fuel pump And fuel pump relay, problem was happening before new parts. the wires at inertia switch continue to get hot switch has been removed. The heat continues to under the hood where there is some so rt of connecting link and heat stops.what the is this link for, it doesn't look like A fusible link?? Saw a similar post here about a fuel pump shutting down and wires getting hot. Same problem.
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I need to start ford power stroke, 2005 with vt365 engine, is v8 cylinder, front timing cover was change and since then the truck only cranking and refuse to start, what have done so far, test icp power, ground and ecu 5 reverence voltage was ok,crank engine and monitor icp signal voltage was 1.2 and above at a crank,installed 1500psi gauge in icp hole and monitor oil pressure at engine crank reading 800psi and above, fuel pressure was 45 psi and above, check engine rpm was 175 and above, measure cam sensor ohms was 800 and crank sensor ohms was 400, check cam and crank supply power was 1.87v and ground was ok, replace ipr with brand new, no fuse that cut, scan for code i found(221 internal sensor supply voltage low or below normal range FIM4)FMI4,Engine crank but no smoke from silenser, using fluid and yet engine didn't make any attempt to start was only cranking, what could make the engine not to start and which component has failed that display above code.
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I have a 85 cj7 with a 258 straight 6 and recently when I have been refilling the gas tank she won't start right away and I end up waiting 1 to 2 hours before she will start up and then she drives fine until you have to put more gas and the cycle happens all over again. What the problem could be?
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My 1985 Ford F-150 6 cyl. manual with overdrive would not start when I turned on the key, moved moved the key to start... It suddenly did nothing and all the dash light went out. I assumed the battery was run down and then tried to start it with my 2010 Ford car.
It still would not start and all dash lights went out. I then put my battery charger on the battery and charged fully charged the battery. I then turned the key off and back on and the dash light went on, tried to start again and the same thing happened. After about 10/15 minutes, I tried again and still did not start. I waited another few minutes, turned the key on and jumped from the battery positive to the starter cable after the starter solenoid and the engine started.
I ran it for a few minutes, and the backed it into the garage. The next day I again tried to start it and again, there was no power to the vehicle... no headlights, brake lights, dash light...nothing. I assumed the starter solenoid was burned out and replaced it. Still did the same thing. I replaced the fusible link on a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Still no power.
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I just got a 1985 Caprice Classic, V8 305. I sometimes have trouble starting it when the engine is cold. When I received the car from a family member, he gave me some spray for the carburetor. This does the trick, but I would like to fix it so that I do not have to resort to this.
The visor has some instructions for starting the engine. The directions say to depress the gas pedal once before trying to start, and 2x when it is very cold outside. I'm concerned that the car won't start at all when the winter comes.. Where should I start to troubleshoot this issue?
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I'm working on my sons 1985 Celica GT 22RE. He was having problems with it running rough.
I've isolated it down to the number 1 cylinder being starved on warm starts. If you cold start it the problem does not occur but if you let it sit warm for 15 minutes it will fire up but nothing from number one cylinder. Lots of spark but no firing. So I'm going to tear down the EFI and move the injector to see if the problem follows it. Will probably see if I'm getting any voltage to the injector while rough before tearing down.
I can't find anything about an injector not working once warm so I'm thinking it may be an ECU problem.
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I own an 85 toyota pick up. It has a 86 electrical system with a 95 engine. To date, this truck has run like a top until I got in the other day and turning the key nothing happened. That is to say, the starter did not turn or kick out. I had the starter tested and it is fine, I tested the starter relay and the neutral position switch. All the wiring checks out fine except for one That comes off the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood.
This wire seems to be a ground for the coil side of the relay. In my books, it should go to a clutch /start switch that I can't find. When I follow the wire it goes from the fuse box into the right side of the engine compartment into the fender area then runs toward the cab but I do not find its color combination going into the computer. I had this same problem with a 86 truck before and never found the problem.
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My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
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I was riding my 1985 Monte Carlo SS down I-20 and the engine abruptly shut-off. The radio and all of the lights were still operating. I pulled over to the service lane and waited an hour for a tow truck. While waiting, I was constantly checking to see if the car would start. After an hour, the car started again and I went on my way. I left the car parked for about 5 hours and when I went to start it, the car started right up. After making it about a mile down the road, the engine shut-off again in the turning lane of a busy intersection. I wouldn't start again after that.
I had the car towed 30 miles to my home and left it sitting. I just changed the alternator, spark plugs, spark plug wires and battery, the car still won't start. I used all high-end parts, no cheap stuff. The battery meter is reading low, even with the new battery.
The has an aftermarket UNGO alarm system in it, which is "spidered" into the ignition system. This prohibits power to everything except the lights if the key isn't in the ignition.
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I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
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