Volvo :: 1984 Stalls Unpredictably / Rev Up At A Stop Light On Its Own
Apr 15, 2016
It can go for days without stalling. It will rev up at a stop light on its own, so I need to put my foot on the break harder to prevent taking off.
Sometimes while shifting gears, mostly to reverse. Car smells like gas when windows are rolled down.
Other people say there's an air leak by listening, but I can't hear it. I sprayed starter fluid on the hoses to see if the rpms would go up but nothing happened.
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The car occasionally stalls while at a stop and the car is idling. The car is supposed to idle at 900RPM but is idling at 550RPM. What would be suggested to prevent the car from stalling?
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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I own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL. It cut off at a stop light one day and now it will not start. It seems to be a fuel related issue, if I squirt staring fluid into the intake it will start but cuts off immediately. I removed the fuel line that connects to the injectors and no fuel is coming out. I checked both the number 1 and 11 fuses both are fine. I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the fuel pump relay.
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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I bought a certified used 2014 GX460 with 16K. I now have 20k. Last week while on vacation, 450 miles away from home, while on a stop light the engine just stopped. I re cranked pulled into Drive and it stopped again. I wanted a couple of mins and it re started. I pulled to a safe area and called my service adviser. He said to keep driving it. Probably just a fluke.
It drove good for the next 45 mins. Later same day we took off again in it. It stopped on me 6 more times. Some were while I was travelling at 60 mph. It just stopped. Had to pull to the side of the road before I lost all steering ability. Kind of scary when a 18 wheeler is on your bumper.
I had it towed to the dealership. They kept if for 5 days. They said they replaced some gaskets around the exhaust valves??? Not areal good explanation.
I drove it 1 1/2 days (45 miles) and it started doing this again. It is at the deal ship now.
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3 mechanics can't find what is wrong but when I come to a stop sign or light my car stalls, not every time but a lot. Also, seems to happen more in cold or wet weather. So every time I stop and idle I have to quick put it into park.
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03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
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I have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge.
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I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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We have a problem with our 1992 240 wagon. When it rains the car starts first thing in the morning but then stalls after driving 2 miles. After letting it sit for a few min. and cranking the engine it starts and will run. If we let the car run for 10 min. before driving everything is good for the day unless the car is parked for a period of time. Then it start and we need let it idle before driving. We have had the Mass air flow sensor replaced twice and that solves the problem for a few months.
This past week the car has started to stall on a damp morning even with the sun shining. Then later in the day it runs rough at a stop or stalls.
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Have swapped the following parts from my 92 240 into my 93 240 without any change in my stalling issue:
AMM, coil, ignition module, fuel relay, spun all fuses and checked hose between throttle body and AMM for holes.
Was super hot in NM today and after driving the car about 1/2 an hour it stalled and would not restart until it cooled off for about 20 minutes.
It doesn't seem to matter what level the fuel tank is. Stalled the other day when it was full.
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I have an 89 Volvo 244 DL series. I have had a complete tune-up, and oil change just recently. Battery works great, plenty of voltage, even had the fuel injection cleaned out.
Problem is the car starts right up when it is cold, however, after driving it and let it set for an hour the car starts up slower and immediately it stalls out. I do it again and the same thing happens and then I leave my foot on the pedal to keep it running at a higher idle for a bit and then place into a gear & it goes without any hesitation. If by chance I do not leave foot on pedal and put it in whatever gear it immediately stalls out. I have driven Volvo's for years, from the 70's to what I have currently. I never had encounter anything like this and have dealt with many other issues and this one has me baffled.
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My 1999 Volvo V70 is having intermittent issues starting/stalling out. Sometimes it will start right up and go, other times, it will start and the rpms will fluctuate then it stalls/shuts off or will go in gear but fluctuate rpms erratically it will do this multiple times after 3 or more restarts it will run fine until it is turned off then the same thing all over again.
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Could this be from bad gas? I put a bottle of Gum out fuel system cleaner in the tank was almost full and the directions say to put it in when almost empty and then fill for best results. My son bought gas at the same place I did and his car started having idle problems at about the same time my problems started (sometimes his engine races, sometimes normal, sometimes so slow it stalls out).
My car is a 98 Volvo S70
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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I've had this car for a little over a month, when I first bought the car it ran fine, until I drove it home. It stalled out and would not start up again, turned out I had low fuel pressure so I replaced the fuel pump. After this the car had been running fine up until a few days ago. It was stalling out and starting right up, now I am lucky if it will start up. I am still getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail. Would it be my injectors?
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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My 1994 volvo 240 stalls at idle when the engine is warm. It's happening more frequently as the weather gets colder, I'm not sure if that's a coincidence. The car is an automatic and I'm wondering if it could be something as simple as low transmission fluid.
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We just brought a 2000 S70 Volvo 5 cyl. sadan. There is a problem when we start it up. Initially it starts up fine, but when you put it into drive, the rpms do not stay constant enough to keep the engine from stalling out. When you restart it, the problem repeats and repeats about five or six times, until the problem corrects itself. If in an effort to increase the rmps by applying the gas pedal, the problem may cease, but not always. Once the rpms remain constant, there are no longer any problems with the engine.
This problem is not a constant. It mostly happens when the engine is cold, but it can also happen when the car has been running and then turned off. When you turn on the warmed up engine, the problem happens again. Because we anticipate the repairs on a Volvo are likely to be expensive, we would like to have an idea of what could cause this problem and an anticipated cost.
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