Does this sound like a choke issue? The car starts up fine and runs like a top. It even drives normally for about a mile, but then as the engine warms up it starts losing compression when I press the gas pedal. The engine runs fine when my foot isn't on the gas, but stutters and won't go anywhere when I'm pressing the gas.
View 1 RepliesWhen I put my car (04 s60 2.5t) in reverse it hesitate, then when I press the pedal it roll back with a loud clunk noise. But if I put the car in drive before putting it in reverse everything goes smoothly.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL station wagon that has been in my family since just before I was born. It has somewhere around 300K miles on it (the odometer broke 7 years ago at 250K). It drives around town more or less fine, usually. But sometimes it loses power on me. Usually this happens when I take it on highways, up big hills, in situations where I need to accelerate quickly, etc. It just starts to slow down, and I have to downshift and ease slowly through whatever stretch of road I'm on until I can get back up to speed (usually on a downhill). It's not totally consistent--sometimes it has this problem, other times it doesn't.
The car will go through stretches where it runs fine, then I'll have this problem on a highway, and then it's a little more likely to happen for a period after that (even on surface streets). This has been happening in some form for a few years. When I first had the problem, it happened continually until I heard a terrible rattling in the engine. When I took it in, they found that a spring in the piston/cylinder had broken off and shot up, breaking the cap off one of the cylinders (sorry for the lack of a more technical explanation).
When they fixed that, the problem seemed to go away for a while, but eventually came back (though there has been no rattling since). The most recent time, it had been running around town just fine. Then I took it out on the highway and really lost power--had to slow it down to 35-40mph going up a hill on a 55mph highway. For the rest of the drive it struggled up hills, even as low as 2nd gear. But on my drive home (about 1.5 hours later), the car ran smoothly (though I continued to baby it, and there were fewer upward hills). Since then, even around town it sometimes feels like it might lose power again, but it never becomes a huge issue because I haven't demanded a whole lot of the car.
After that long-winded explanation, I'm wondering: could this be something as simple as spark plugs? Or is this definitely a bigger issue with the engine? If it's a cheap fix, I'm happy to go for it, but if it will require putting several hundred (or more) into the engine, I'm inclined just to let it limp along until it's finally time to take the car out back and shoot it. Figuratively, of course.
My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 Replies92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. When I press the brake pedal and press the start button the engine does not start or the wheels are not powered by the battery. It gives me the following errors:
The indicator in the Start button lights in Amber Color.
0 kmph mark is not activated in the dash board pannel.
When I shift the gears it only shifts to neutral ("N") gear.
I cant move the car forward or backward. An error message is displayed in the MFD in Japanese language. It is in Japanese and I cant read the error message.
My '99 volvo s70 t5 with 132k miles is idling poorly causing the car to shake, and the mechanic who looked at it said I am not getting compression in cylinder #5. He recommends a valve job (not sure if it is the intake or exhaust valve but said 95% of the time that is the issue). The mechanic said they completed the compression test, and that is what told him it was cylinder #5.
View 1 RepliesChanged timing belt after several teeth being stripped. Engine runs but won't idle without foot on gas pedal. Drives smooth as long above 2000 rpm. Thinking there is one or more slightly bent valves. Quadruple checked timing marks. Coils are good. Fuel injectors are good. Spark plugs are new NGK's. DTC's are 0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304 - misfiring.
Have a line on a low mileage head with warranty. 2007 Accent 1.6L?
2004 Malibu 3.5 v6. 101,000 miles. In order to get engine running gas pedal has to be pushed all the way down to get it started. Engine will not start by turning key. Car initially starts sputters and then dies. Pedal to the floor while cranking engine fires and runs. Which direction do I go first at. Ignition or Fuel. What should the fuel pressure be with key on engine not running ?
What should pressure be at while running ?
What is the time frame pressure should hold at and for how long ?
Ignition, Coil,Wires,Plugs. Are these the only ignition parts to look at?
Check engine light is on but has leak in exhaust. Exhaust needs to be welded. All parts above are original. Neither Fuel Pump nor Ignition Component have not been changed. Which do I do first ?
I'm driving a 1995 Mazda Protege with about 200,000 miles. It has been generally pretty reliable, and I have fixed things as necessary, but a DNR has been in place for awhile. The water pump is leaking coolant and need replacing it, so I'm driving it (and keeping the coolant topped off) while I arrange to get something else. The temp gauge stays in the normal range.
Yesterday on the road the car began to lose electrical power: the radio turned off, the gauge cluster and then the headlights got dimmer, etc. But it continued to run ok. When I got where I was going, I parked it for a few hours, then on the return trip the car started fine, the headlights and gauges were bright, but over the course of about half-an-hour they began to dim again. The car continued to run ok until I got where I was going and parked it. I'm not sure I want to drive it again until I figure out what's going on.
The battery is about six months old, and the alternator was replaced about two years ago. The serpentine belt is in place and seems to be in good condition. Battery connections and cables look ok. The "charging" warning light has never come on. The water pump has been leaking for a couple weeks, but this is the first time the electrics have acted weird. Would the alternator go bad this soon? Does the water pump affect the electrics? What do I look for?
I have a 1976 Ford F100 with a 302 and my problem is sometimes when my engine is running and I try to cut it off, it continues to run and the only way to stop it is to jerk the coil wire off. This is an intermittent problem. Happens about every 6 or 7 times I drive it. I have replaced the ignition switch and still have the same problem. Pretty sure it is some type wiring or ground issue, just need someplace to start.
View 1 RepliesI have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
View 1 Repliesbasically it runs rough and makes noise when AC is on. While it may not be perfect when off, it certainly is quieter. Check engine light just came on.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
I have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
View 1 RepliesI noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
View 14 RepliesIt happens at 60 mph with foot off the gas.
2013 awd gs350
I have a 2009 Camry and both brake lights don't illuminate when I press the brake pedal but during night time driving, the red tailights are on indicating the bulbs aren't burnt. The third brake light on the top behind the rear seats does illuminate. By the way my tailights aren't the fancy LED ones just the normal stock bulbs. So what's the problem here? Is it a electrical issue?
View 2 Repliesi have a 2013 golf r with about 2k miles. Say if I am in second gear and i kinda press the pedal a little harder then i usually do, i hear a weird noise. kinda sounding like a fake exhaust sound or some sort of vibration near where the e brake is. when i let go of the pedal the noise goes away. I know my description is terrible but its honestly a strange noise.
View 5 Replies