Volvo :: 03 Xc90 - No Oil Pressure Stop Engine Safely Light Coming On
Mar 17, 2013
03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
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I am a new Volvo XC90 owner/fan. The issue is my lovely 2006 XC90 2.5T started to show the bizarre 'No Oil Pressure. Stop Engine.' dash board message red color.
First things I checked right after seeing that message.
Engine oil level - FINE (actually full).
Engine oil - CLEAN and recently replaced.
I drove 100 miles and the weather was peaceful 40f degrees (5c). The sign would come and off intermittently and stayed there for some time. We were luckily at the destination so we stopped the car and did our biz.
After a couple of hours we started the engine, drove a car, came back home driving 100 miles back without an issue.
But after a day, actually today, I saw the same message again. It was intermittently again and then would stay. If I restart the engine the message would go away but then would come back after sometime of driving.
So I called a couple of normal non-Volvo repair shops and they didn't know what the issue is and didn't even know why I would check the engine pressure. So OK pass.
I called Volvo dealer and he said if it is a 'low engine oil' message you can just top it up but if it is a 'engine pressure' message then the issue can be huge so he advised to tow the car in.
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I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common? 2005 Xc90 2.5t...
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Sometimes, when I take off from a red light or stop sign, my car makes a thump. This feels as if it is under the car, not a transmission shift noise. It would seem to me that it has to do with exhaust or fuel???? I am guessing.
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I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
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Pitching noise coming from front end - Replacing Xc90 Front Wheel Bearings / hub Assembly? I believe they are bad based upon the pitch of the sound coming from the front end. Are they press in?
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I purchased my 2004 XC90 2.5T today. it's got 150k miles.
1. there is a clunking sound coming from the driver strut, I'm thinking it is the bushing on top.
2. should i just replace the whole strut assembly? if so is there a diy? and a kit for this?
3. Rear window doesn't stay up, im thinking the sliders on the window are broken?
4. most importantly, whats the best iPod / iPhone hook up for the volvo.
5. also what mods for keeping it clean.
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I have an xc90 D5 awd. It has about 200 000 km on the clock. It started cutting out a month ago while driving on a gravel road. After cutting out about 10 times I just tried are 2nd key and it hasn't given us the problem ever again. I then went to Volvo who told me to replace the key .. R4200 rand.. Insane I obviously didn't go thru with it been using the other key ever since.
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This morning on my way to work my 2006 2.5T XC90 engine lost major horsepower. I barely could creep ahead once the traffic light turned green. The exclamation point on the dash was lit and the error message said "Engine performance affected". I sputtered to the curb and put the vehicle in park. I depressed the gas pedal several times all the way to the floor with little reaction in engine rpms. I then shut off the engine and restarted. After this the warning lights went out and the engine ran fine. The outside temperature was -7F and my vehicle had been running for about 5 minutes.
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i drive a 2007 XC90 V8 with 76000miles and recently i got a power system failure message and battery light went on , so took it to my mechanic and he tested the car and it was tuning out 11volts so he concluded it was the alternator, so he recommended changing the regulator and i got a new regulator made by Bosch and it was installed and upon starting the message came back on and the battery light as well and upon testing it was producing 15.4volts , now its overcharging , what do i need to do ? should i buy another regulator ? as my mechanic says alternators hardly ever get damaged but the regulator is the one that usually gets damaged...
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I started up the truck. It cranked perfectly as always. Was half way out of the parking lot going give mph and a warning beeping started with a message "stop vehicle safely". I did and the engine died. When I try to crank it it will not turn over at all. No power to engine at all.
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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.
Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.
The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.
I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.
The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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The engine light and Stop Engine low oil pressure light came on in my 2007 Passat. I had it towed to the dealer where it went through inspection for CPO certification. I purchased and had maint. and repairs completed at the dealership. I am at 84,000m. It is less than two years from date of purchase--however I am 12,000m outside of the limited warranty.
Dealership has said that there is factory based engine failure. To my knowledge, a diagnostic (1 Camshaft Position (Bank 1) Timing over advanced or system performance intermittent) and seeing metal near filter led to the conclusion that I can pay to take apart the engine--but most likely will need to replace the engine.
Outside mechanic has pointed out that the 2.0 engine tends to have some metal in the oil. How much or how big could signal internal damage. Small amounts can be "normal".
Looking for steps that could be taken before taking apart the engine? As it is less than 2 yrs. Passat 2007 (2.0 engine) ....
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I have a 2011 F-250 with about 5000 miles. Sunday night, I was driving home and first got the CEL. Then less than 5 miles later, I got the red "Stop Safely Now". Pulled over and the thing just died. Checked the message center and nothing out of the ordinary other than the SSN message. Had to wait about 45 minutes for the tow truck and thought it might cool down. I tried to start it while waiting but got nothing. Battery was good and all electronics worked. Waiting to hear a diagnosis from the dealer.
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Scenario- Start car, back up, and cut wheel to the left out of the driveway. There is a loud, crushed can noise. Yes, just as if I had run over a can, but didn't. This only happens if the air conditioner is on.
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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I bought a 2005 Volvo V70 with 75,500 miles on Nov. 13. On Nov. 15, the check engine light went on, and I returned to the dealership for a solenoid replacement. The check engine light went on again on Nov. 17, oil pan replaced. On Nov. 19, the light went on again, timing belt replaced. On Nov. 22, the light went on again. Each time the code was the same--sometimes in conjunction with other codes--but one code was consistent. We returned the car on Nov. 22 and asked for a refund in keeping with the Massachusetts lemon law (an attempt at repair 3+ times). The dealer refused, saying the check engine light and computer code were not the same as an attempted repair. He took the car and said he was going to call Volvo Tech in. However, he says the light "went off" and never came back on even though his staff has test driven it 170 miles in the past three days. He's "releasing our car" to us, even though he has made no repair. Tell me--is trying to address the same computer code considered a "repair"?
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Luckily I was sitting in the driveway. Pulled the truck out of the garage. It started fine, idled fine, did not make as much noise as I was expecting but was warmer in the garage than outside. Stopped in front of the garage door to grab a couple things in the garage, jumped back in and it quit before I could get it in gear and roll out. Weird. This is the first time I've ever had to get a tow.
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I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
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I have just replaced the rear discs and pads on a 2008 XC90 which has solved the problem I had with them. However, the parking brake is not working. When the old discs came off they did so easily without any resistance and the new ones went on just as easily so as far as I can tell the parking brakes weren't disturbed. The parking brake did come on after 3-5 clicks before this work was completed and now they are not operating after 8 clicks so am at a loss to understand this problem.
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