Volkswagen - Routan :: 2011 - No Heat On Cold Days
Jan 31, 2015
I have a 11' VW Routan and just started having the following issue:
Minimal amount of heat, even after the temp gauge indicates that the engine is up to operating temperature. On cold days the car warms up fine and sometimes I get very hot air heat (normal) coming from the vents then all of sudden the air goes cold or lukewarm. I need to stop the van, turn off the ignition and restart the van for the heat to come back. But every once in a while; while the cold air is coming out, it does hot again. What the problem(s?) might be?
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201w Routan SE 50000 miles. Past several months the gas pedal has gotten stuck to the floor four times. Always happens when going very slowly and romping on the pedal. Last time was today, 4/5/2016, when I was stopped at a round about and had to quickly accelerate as noone in our area knows how to navigate one. The pedal immediately stuck to the floor halfway around the round about and disengaged after I tapped on it. Hope this isn't a known issue cause I haven't gotten a recall notice for this piece of crap.
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I purchased a new 2009 VW Routan back in 2009. Things went well for roughly the first 3 years. About 7 months ago the car just shutdown while driving. I pulled over and it started up again. I mentioned it to the dealer when taking it in for maintenance and they couldn't find a problem. It again happened to my wife with our 2 little kids in the back. The car just shut off while driving and she couldnt start it again for a few minutes and the obviously concerned to drive it anywhere. We took it the the VW dealer service about 2 weeks ago right after the incident.
They had it for about a week and replaced the battery and some electrical systems. It worked for a week and the same thing happened again today! It's back at the VW dealer service department. Now I have zero confidence in this car and that the service department is capable of fixing the issue to begin with. I've read about a recall for the 2010 model for this issue and I'm gravely concerned I have a lemon on my hands and against a wall with no recourse. What are my options? I want to have VW replace it. It's only 3.5 years old and I'm not going to keep driving a car that can randomly shut down.
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We recently purchased a (used) 2010 Volkswagen Routan with approximately 40k miles. Almost immediately we noticed a loud noise whenever we began to slow down in city traffic. The noise is loudest after the car has been driven for a while. It sounds like metal knocking around. The dealership claims the brake pads are causing this noise. They said the pads are perfectly good but are two different brands and this is what is causing the sound. I do not believe brake pads would continue to make this noise after 3 months if they were good. I am also not convinced it is the brake pads at all.
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I have a 2002 Passat that is only blowing cold air when it is supposed to be heat. I have checked the following items:
1. Both heater hoses are hot at the heater core which would indicate that the core is not restricted.
2. Air has been bled at the heater core and the antifreeze is at the correct level.
3. Car thermostat is operating correctly and maintains a steady 190 to 195 degrees.
4. When temperature control lever is moved from "cold" to "hot" the air noise definitely changes like a damper is moving but there is no change in air temperature. This is a manual control with cables (not digital read-out).
From what I have read so far I am convinced that there is a problem with the blend door but referring you back to #4 (air noise change) I believe that the cable is moving the damper. Can the blend door be accessed on this car without removing the center console? Can it be accessed through the glove box area?
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My daughter has a 1999 New Beetle and when she doesn't drive it for a week or so, the battery is drained down to zero and the car needs a jump start. We've replaced the battery twice - the latest battery is only about 3 months old but when we came back from a week's vacation, the car was dead. Instead of jump starting it ourselves we decided to call AAA (gotta' use the membership occasionally). They tested the battery and it was drained to zero (in warm weather). After jump starting it and a few days of normal driving, I took it to the shop where we bought the battery. They tested it and it registered 759 amps (its rated at 730).
The guy at the shop said that it was normal to for a battery to drain to zero after sitting for 7-9 days because of negative drain (keeping the clock running, etc.) I'm not sure I believe him - because I've never had that quick of a battery drain with my other cars.
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Just had the truck in the dealership for a bad blend door/ heater core case. Heat would only blow out warm on the passenger side, blows cold on drivers side. Dealership replaced the case, heat works normal on both sides now. It was a little warm out yesterday so i turned on the A/C, frosty cold on passenger side, warm on drivers side, temperature does change when i select different temperatures (dual zone.)
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When I run the heater on high to be directed through the dash and foot areas here in Wisconsin, I receive wonderful heat from the dash, but ice-cold air to the feet. What is going on? Do I have a clogged heater core or line? Or could this be an easy fix I could do myself?
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Since December, I have had the SRS airbag light indicator come on in my 2006 Honda Accord (EX-L, 2.4 L, Automatic), but only in the morning, and only when the outside temperature has been below freezing the night before. After a few minutes when the car warms up, if I turn the car off and then back on the SRS light is gone. The rest of the day, no problem. Figuring that it was not the safest thing to drive with, I had it checked out by a repair shop that I feel comfortable with. They checked the code and said that it showed up as a faulty SRS computer, and the computer would need to be replaced. It seems crazy to me that a 2006 Accord with under 52,000 would need a new SRS unit, so I started looking online to see if I could find any info.
I saw about the SRS units in previous Accords, but it seems like they have those issues ironed out in the 2005 and 2006. I did however, see that some people have said that low voltage also could trigger the same defective code in the SRS unit, which got me thinking. The original Honda battery died and was replaced at the end of November with an AC Delco ACD 51R60 (460 CCA). My original theory was that the AC Delco battery was not cranking enough when it is cold compared to the old Honda battery, and it is triggering the SRS airbag light. I ended up having the shop switch out the new battery to an AC Delco 51R6YR (500 CCA). Unfortunately, however, it did not fix the problem. I can't get past the fact that if it was a defective SRS unit, why would it only cause a problem for the first few minutes when it is cold, and then consistently be fine after that?
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You know what I will never miss by have a Gen III Prius? I will never have to listen to my fan belt squealing on cold day after almost killing the battery hoping my car will start.
After our recent cold snap I was surprised how many cars were in my parking lot at work with people grinding away trying to get them to start and the nasty sounds the cars made once they did start. Everything from rough running, not firing on all cylinders, and/or belts squealing.
Now I will admit the Prius did act a little different that day. When the ICE started it did sound like it was working a little harder than it usually does when I first start it. But in all reality at -20degF the ICE started the same as it ever did.
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My 2009 Honda CRV struggles to start on very cold days. I need to hold the key and turn it longer than I would on most days. Is this something I should be concerned about or is it normal.
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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I have a 2005 VW Golf GL, automatic tranny, 2.0L 4-cyl that has some issues during long drives in hot weather. The 1st incident occurred when I was driving on the interstate in AZ w/the outside air temp around 100 degrees. It was a flat, desolate stretch of road and I had cruise control engaged as well as the A/C turned on. Suddenly it was as if someone had let off the gas pedal, as the car began quickly slowing down from 70 or 75 to maybe 40 or so. I turned off the cruise control & tried to increase back up to highway speed manually, but there was a long lag time before the engine kicked up again. I got it back up to full speed, then moments later it would kick down again unexpectedly as if I had taken my foot off the gas even though I hadn't (and I was still not climbing any hills). The temp gauge was still normal, but I turned off the A/C just in case this was making an unnecessary drain on the engine. Still the car would behave in the same way. I took the next exit, let it rest a bit, then limped along @ a slow speed on the frontage road until the next town. Suspecting it was the MAF sensor, I had it cleaned @ a repair shop before heading back home. It ran normal for a little while during the drive back, but then the same issue.
Back in town, I replaced the whole MAF sensor, since I was told just cleaning it was a temp fix. By this time the outside air temp was cooler, & short drives to/from work went fine. However, the next time I tried taking the car on a long hot drive (from SoCal into NV), the same issue happened again! So maybe it wasn't the MAF sensor afterall (unless the replacement was faulty?). Nevertheless, I took a wet washcloth & wrapped it around the sensor, & this seemed to do the trick to get me back home again. For now I am no longer going to risk taking this car on long hot trips until I can figure out what's wrong w/it & how to fix it. I do plan to take it to a mechanic but wanted to see first if this rings any bells for people on this forum.....??
2nd, (possibly related?) problem:
Today as I was coming home, the engine stalled when I tried to take off when the light turned green @ an intersection. I limped it to the other side, pulled over, & tried starting it up again. It started right away & then ran fine. I'd been low on gas but not so low that it should be an issue. I drove the rest of the way (on a highway) to a gas station (several miles) w/o A/C, no problem. I filled it up, did the washcloth trick once again in case that was related to the problem @ all, & drove the rest of the way home just fine. Battery is relatively new (about 2 yrs.) & alternator tested fine. Did not see any corrosion on a recent check of the battery posts. Outside air temp warm today, but not that bad...only mid-80s. Temp gauge read normal.
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2 months ago I got my battery replaced when it started dying very often. Now the same thing persists, if I don't use the car for two days the battery dies again. I took it to the dealer and got it tested and the dealer gave me a report saying the battery is good. I have to jump start it every time.
2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS A/T
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I have been doing some research on why my 6sp MT makes a weird almost "Plastic Grinding" noise when shifting from 1st to second on cold days when it sits overnight. It has been getting under 40 degree that last couple days and it seems to go away after just a few minutes of driving. It only happens from 1st to 2nd. I have been told its normal and just because the trans fluid is thicker when cold.
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I have 2001 saturn l200 about 150000 miles.. On cold days i hear a clicking sound coming from motor. When I push on gas pedal the clicking get little larder as soon the car warms up its stops clicking. I had the timing replace. Battery check. New oil. Oil pressure check....
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I have a FWD 2009 Sienna with 62k that vibrate on cold days. It only vibrate when the shifter is on drive or reverse while stepping on the brake. There is no vibration while driving, only when I'm at a stop light. After the engine warms up, the vibration goes away. I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. I just want some kind of knowledge before taking it in.
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I've noticed now that it's winter that my Legacy with 14k on it will shift somewhat hard into drive from reverse if I don't let it idle and warm up for 2-5 minutes before setting off. After that one shift, the car is fine the rest of the day. I checked the transmission fluid and it appears full, I had a more mechanically inclined person check also and it looked full to them as well. It seems more pronounced if I parked on my hill with the front of the car facing up the hill - but i use the parking break to hold the car, and release it before starting out.
The issue is if I just go - sometimes it will jerk into drive - one time even though I've learned to back up, come to a complete stop, wait a second, hold the break down all the way and then shift into drive, it jerked forward some distance over the breaks, but then stopped. This only happened once - but it happened with my father in the car, so it was a bit disconcerting... It happens before I even touch the gas...
This is the 5 speed automatic with a manual mode and paddle shifters - I'm just using the fully automatic R and D.
Now, my family likes Subarus and has owned a number, and my last one, an 07 impreza with automatic sometimes jerked into drive also, and my relatives have sometimes had that happen with Autos. Is this just a Subaru traditional Automatic thing? I spent many hours with my 07 in the dealer for this, only to be told it was normal, so I'd rather not waste everyones time again with the 2012 Legacy if it's just "a subaru thing". I can certainly live with warming the car up when it's cold, though that seems to not usually be a best practice with modern cars.
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My Mom purchased a new 2011 Lexus RX350 last spring. The dealer installed a remote starter at the time of purchase (we live in Alaska). We've had a continuing problem with the battery going dead if the car has not been driven for a period of time (like 4 days). When she does drive it, it is for short trips (3 miles round trip to work). The original battery was replaced in fall with a heavy duty one, but the problem continues. Its been to the Lexus dealer (130 miles away) several times, but they claim everything is within the tolerances and "there is no problem".
They did note that the remote starter was drawing more than it was suppose to and reinstalled it. Their finding was that she was not driving it enough and recommended a battery tender, which has been installed. That works as long as she plugs it in daily. However, if a plug in is not available (like at the airport, hospital or if she is visiting) the battery goes dead after 4 days (even after it has been driven 100 miles).
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I have an '05 Camry XLE with the in-dash touch-screen AM/FM CD Nav system. On random cold days I seem to lose my radio reception. When I turn on the radio I receive a lot of static with break-through talking or music. I've tried to change stations using the touch panel, the steering control as well as the manual tuning dial and I still got static.
I've driven to work ~40 minutes and most of them were filled with static and some break-through talking (not of the station I was tuned into though). The last couple of minutes of my drive I did get a station that said it was 98.3 but I was tuned into 95.5. No matter which station I dialed in I still received the 98.3 station.
It seems like the antenna or something in the radio was stuck or frozen. I drove the entire time with the heat blaring on feet/defrost and rear defroster on thinking it might warm something up but that didn't work.
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On cold mornings if I do a sharp right turn (Left turns just naturally are not sharp, so I don't know if it's both ways). I get a rumbling noise in the transaxle. It sounds like a rumble, if it's limit slip noise it's pretty bad. It does not seem to be a problem in the summer. Dealer found nothing but if they don't do it while it's cold they won't hear it.
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