Volkswagen - Routan :: 2009 - Turns Off While Driving / Won't Start Again?
Dec 16, 2012
I purchased a new 2009 VW Routan back in 2009. Things went well for roughly the first 3 years. About 7 months ago the car just shutdown while driving. I pulled over and it started up again. I mentioned it to the dealer when taking it in for maintenance and they couldn't find a problem. It again happened to my wife with our 2 little kids in the back. The car just shut off while driving and she couldnt start it again for a few minutes and the obviously concerned to drive it anywhere. We took it the the VW dealer service about 2 weeks ago right after the incident.
They had it for about a week and replaced the battery and some electrical systems. It worked for a week and the same thing happened again today! It's back at the VW dealer service department. Now I have zero confidence in this car and that the service department is capable of fixing the issue to begin with. I've read about a recall for the 2010 model for this issue and I'm gravely concerned I have a lemon on my hands and against a wall with no recourse. What are my options? I want to have VW replace it. It's only 3.5 years old and I'm not going to keep driving a car that can randomly shut down.
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201w Routan SE 50000 miles. Past several months the gas pedal has gotten stuck to the floor four times. Always happens when going very slowly and romping on the pedal. Last time was today, 4/5/2016, when I was stopped at a round about and had to quickly accelerate as noone in our area knows how to navigate one. The pedal immediately stuck to the floor halfway around the round about and disengaged after I tapped on it. Hope this isn't a known issue cause I haven't gotten a recall notice for this piece of crap.
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I have a 11' VW Routan and just started having the following issue:
Minimal amount of heat, even after the temp gauge indicates that the engine is up to operating temperature. On cold days the car warms up fine and sometimes I get very hot air heat (normal) coming from the vents then all of sudden the air goes cold or lukewarm. I need to stop the van, turn off the ignition and restart the van for the heat to come back. But every once in a while; while the cold air is coming out, it does hot again. What the problem(s?) might be?
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We recently purchased a (used) 2010 Volkswagen Routan with approximately 40k miles. Almost immediately we noticed a loud noise whenever we began to slow down in city traffic. The noise is loudest after the car has been driven for a while. It sounds like metal knocking around. The dealership claims the brake pads are causing this noise. They said the pads are perfectly good but are two different brands and this is what is causing the sound. I do not believe brake pads would continue to make this noise after 3 months if they were good. I am also not convinced it is the brake pads at all.
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I have a 2009 VW JETTA. I have experienced my ABS alarm lights and sounds coming on in the past few months, twice while driving at speed in a curve and braking. Stopping the vehicle, turning it off and back on clears the errors, checking with my ODBII reader once I get home finds no errors.
Where this has occurred is a rather odd exit off of I-70 to Wadsworth Blvd., you are exiting at pretty good speed from the Interstate, curving to the right, then to the left and pretty much braking the entire time, and going into a slight bank. You can feel the increase in G's as you make this exit. I have also driven the exit and greatly reduced my speed and level of braking and the issue with the ABS does not occur. My local dealer is at a loss to find or explain what is occurring.
My questions are, is there something seriously wrong with my braking system (ABS), if there is, what is it, if there isn't, why does it do this only under the conditions that it is occurring?
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My Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
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We have a 2009 F150 XLT 4.6 3V. Starts fine for several days then all of the sudden it won't crank. It turns over normally but will not start. Then after 10 - 15 minutes of trying it starts. Does fine for a day or two then it happens again. It is not throwing any codes. We have replaced the spark plugs, crank shaft sensor, and checked all the fuses.
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My Dad's 2011 Raptor has been having starting issues for about a month now. He turns the key, it turns over, but doesn't actually start; the same thing happens if he tries to start using remote start. It will start once in awhile on a 2nd or 3rd try, after throwing the shifter back and forth from Drive through Reverse several times and trying again, but not most of the time.
It doesn't happen all the time, but every once in awhile, and always at random times.
The first time was accelerating at an intersection a month ago. A second or so after hitting the gas, the engine died in the middle of the intersection. He took the key out, threw the shifter back and forth, tried again, and it started right up without issues.
Later that night, he tried starting it after sitting for over an hour (and had started it several times before without problems), and it failed to start, even after 7 or 8 tries. He had it towed to the dealer the next morning. He even tried starting it that morning in the dealer parking lot, without success. Several technicians apparently started it several times later that day without any issues! They didn't fix or replace anything, because they didn't find any problems. When he got it back, it worked perfectly.
A couple weeks later, it had the same problem at the gas station, after getting a full tank. My Mom told him that her truck (a nearly identical '11 Raptor) had the exact same issues several times in the past, and her trick was to let all the lights in the truck turn off, then try starting. He did that, and it worked!
Tonight, the same issue emerged. He did everything that had 'worked' in the past, and it still failed to start after about 10 tries. It's headed to the dealer on Monday, but what it might be?!? I also want to add that when it starts, it starts flawlessly, without hesitation; as if there wasn't a problem.
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I have a 2013 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.0. It has 53k miles on it and I purchased it new. A few days ago I tried staring my truck, and on the 5th attempt it finally started. Well I went and replaced the battery because it tested weak. It happened again this morning and it didn't start. I had to have it towed to a mechanic. It turns over strong so I'm thinking it may be a fuel problem. It's not a security issue regarding the smart key. I tried my wife's key and still It didn't start.
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Cars turns off while driving and may or may not start. The voltage fluctuates and dims the lights and such. Now it wont start.
The battery is good. The alternator is good. I put a new computer in it. I don't know what else to do.
On top of this awesomeness, I found this relay/sensor that seems to go nowhere (picture below). There is also a second something or another that you can see in the bottom right quarter (red wire grey attachment underneath cruise control module next to that bundle of wires) that seems to go nowhere. I didn't unplug these.
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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I was driving towards the freeway, I wasn't even on the freeway, I was taking back roads, and I turn on the AC, and the car turns off. So I coast to a stop, turn it back on drive a bit, car shuts off, I figured out it was the AC, drive back with the AC turned off, get back home show my dad what happened, car shuts off when tested. We test the AC a few times more, then after a while car just keeps running even with the AC on, but when on AC mode, it won't blow cold air. But the car no longer stalls with the AC turned on.
I recently replaced the ignition switch in my 1998 Jetta.
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I just bought a 98 Beetle with 58000 miles on it (for only 3400)!
When I am driving in low gear (it's an automatic), under 25 miles per hour or so, it feels like I'm driving with my brake on. For example, when I attempt to coast down a hill, I don't even accelerate! Even on the steepest of hills, I'll be slowly decelerating. This problem is most apparent after I start the car. After the car has shifted up past 25mph and back down, the problem is still there but not quite as extreme. I have found that, when coasting down a hill, if I shift my car into neutral, it feels like I suddenly let go of the brake! I will suddenly begin to accelerate in neutral where as I am decelerating in drive (when driving under 25mph).What also might be worthy of note is that it shifts -kind- of hard when going past the 25 mph mark. I've seen cards shift harder so I don't think it's a big deal but it might be related.
I'm afraid this problem is having a negative effect on my gas mileage. I'm additionally afraid that it's a problem that'll get worse and cost me lots of money.
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I have a 1996 VW Jetta GL 4 cyl. 2.0L. When the temp. start to warm up the car won't start. I don't know if its the temp. outside, or in the cabin of the car. all the dash lights turn on, and accessories turn on. sometimes I hear a clicking noise, which I think is the sound of electricity going to the starter. I have replaced the starter, alternator, & battery. I had a family friend mechanic look at it for about 3 hrs. and he couldn't figure it out. I have a suspicion that it might be the ignition switch faulting out, but how would I know for sure with out taring apart the steering column?
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Anything that could be causing this.
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1997 vw jetta is bucking after driving 20-30 min. keeps going, just keeps bucking . Also, the speedometer doesn't always work.
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Driving to MA from PA, stopped for a meal, got back in car & got msg on info panel that R front headlight was not functioning. It was raining hard, but still daylight in late afternoon. Checked other lights & all seemed ok - running light working. Back in car - another 175 miles to go & it became evident R turn signal wasn't working. Did get to MA early evening, checked lights again & found that brake lights weren't working & more. VW dealer in town checked it out next day & said 30 amp fuse for lighting was melted w/fuse block, which they removed & replaced. Turns out I'm not the first person - VW instantly said they'd refund the $531 it cost, which tells me they're aware it's a fault of theirs. I'm wondering - what caused this? Google tells me they've had probs with this with Tiguans & a bunch of recalls. What's to stop it from happening again? What would have caused the fuse to melt in the first place? My husband has a 2013 Jetta TDI. Does that mean his car is at risk?
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My 2005 GTI has been decelerating while I'm driving on a certain section of the freeway. It's a steady incline for about 1/2 a mile, the altitude changes (my ears tend to pop). The car starts to decelerate, I take my foot off the pedal for a couple of seconds and then press the accelerator and it's usually fine.
However, a couple of weeks ago it totally stalled out on the freeway, it restarted fine. I took it into the shop the next day, my mechanic is not 100% sure what the problem is, he replaced the crankshaft sensor. Turns out it's not the source of the problem, I am still decelerating on the freeway. I had a tune-up and new battery installed a month ago, so I don't know what the problem is.
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For several months, my 2004 VW Passat (1.8L Turbo FWD) has been making an intermittent squeal while driving. The noise is brief (lasting usually a fraction of a second), is loud, screechy and high-pitched (like a belt slipping), sounds as if it's originating from the rear passenger's-side area, and always occurs just after I begin to drive after being stopped at a light or stop sign. It occurs most frequently when I make a left turn (never a right turn) and sometimes when proceeding without a turn. When it's heard while driving straight, it's accompanied by a momentary hesitation in speed, but whether this is just engine hesitation or active deceleration I cannot tell. The problem began in the fall of 2011, stopped during the cooler months (I live in southwest Florida), and began again once ambient temperatures climbed again into the 80's. It usually occurs once or twice per day (but some days not at all) and typically in the afternoons when the air temperatures are warmer. I never hear it when the brakes are applied, and the brakes do not squeal. The noise is not accompanied by any dashboard warning lights.
My local VW dealership claimed that the cause was rusty rotors (as I had recently moved to FL from New England), and I spent several hundred dollars having the rotors replaced, only to have the problem reoccur as I was leaving the dealership's parking lot. I now have an independent mechanic who has been road-testing the car for several days and has heard the squeal once but is puzzled as to its cause. There is no uneven brake wear to suggest that the calipers are being applied unevenly. About 2 months ago, when the squealing noise was absent in the winter months, my mechanic removed a 6mm piece of aggregate which had become lodged beneath the vacuum plate of the rear driver's-side brake assembly. However, a month later, the squeal returned as before. My mechanic is truly puzzled and at this time can only suggest having the rear brakes and calipers replaced.
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Why my 2004 Jetta 1.8T Stalls out while Driving? It usually happens while on the Freeway, 60-70 Mph, I Coast to the Shoulder then it starts back up again...
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I have a whistle noise which I can hear since a month, it comes only when : - I drove more than 20 miles ( related to warming up of a piece of the car ? ) - I drive at least at 30 mph - Same noise If I switch to "neutral" position - Same noise if I'm braking or not, just related to the current speed - The noise is coming from the outside, but the high pitch makes it hard to locate...
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