Volkswagen - Rabbit :: Stalling / EPC And Battery Lights Turn On When Idling
Jan 29, 2013
I bought a used 2008 Rabbit about two year ago. Recently, I have been experiencing two problems:
Sometimes, when I am idling at a light, my car stalls and the EPC and battery lights turn on. If I turn off my car and back on it then runs fine.
Last night, I drove my car to two stops. At the second stop, the car wouldn't turn on. I got a jump and drove it straight to the mechanic's. This morning they said the battery is charged and the car is turning on fine. They cannot find anything so far that is draining the battery.
What might be causing these two problems?
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I am having a problem with my car stalling randomly. It happens when I am driving and it also happened when the car was idling in the driveway. I believe it to be an electrical problem as there are no lights on the dashboard when I try to turn it over, however after a few minutes it will start and run ok. At first I thought it was the fuel pump, but now I'm not so sure. There is no pattern to when it happens either. When driving the car will start sputtering then stall. I'll let it sit for a minute or so, then it starts again. What can be causing this?
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I have a 1984 VW Rabbit, 4 cyl., 5 spd, that chokes off when I slow down to stop....
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I have a 2006 VW Rabbit with 106k miles. It is an automatic. Strange problem: if it is raining AND the traction control symbol comes on (I slip), then the EPC light comes on and the car is slow to shift and has poor acceleration. This does not happen if it is not raining and it does not happen just when it's raining. One mechanic recommended cleaning the throttle body, but since the car runs great all other times, this didn't make sense to me.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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This just started today and when I turned off my car and removed the key from the ignition, the radio stayed on. Also, when I opened the door, the door chime came on as if the lights were still on and now I'm not able to lock the car or set the alarm using my key. I've read that some vw cars are wired so that the radio stays on after the car is turned off, but this has never been the case with my car. My main concern is battery drainage and being unable to lock and arm my alarm.
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My VW Rabbit (2007) has water in the spare tire well (under hatchback floor); under the floor mats in the back (passenger side has puddled up over the floor mat); appears to have water inside the driver side wall (seat belts are damp and have mildew); appears to have water leaking from under the passenger side onto the ground (backseat end).
This is not a case of windows or sun roof having been left open. Nor have I driven through a flooded area of significance. Last year the rear-passenger-side of this car was destroyed in a 50mph hit by an SUV and insurance co. chose to have it repaired rather than total....
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My girlfriend has a 2007 Volkswagen Rabbit, and she said that occasionally when she slows down as she's getting off the freeway her car downshifts from third to first really quickly and she's concerned. She took it to the dealer but, of course, they couldn't tell what was wrong because it only happens on occasion. They said it might have something to do with the brakes pumping if she slows down too fast. The car has 60,000 miles on it.
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Let me start by saying that I love my silly old Rabbit. Presently though I am irritated and confused by its new quirk. When starting it spins with out turning over. It sounds to me like it is not getting fuel. It also tends to backfire (or something else that causes a small amount of smoke). It does inevitably start and once it is running it seems fine. It got a full tuneup this spring, I have checked the fuel pump and replaced the fuel regulator. The problem persists. My present theory is that it has something to do with the ghost that lives in the wiring that recently made half of my instrument cluster dead, but that could and just be its own problem.
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I have a great vw 2008 rabbit with 115,00 miles on her. I just completed a round trip. On my way back during terrible stop and go Washington DC traffic..I noticed the car started to rev a bit. After that the idle has been rough with some light shaking. No engine light, but it does sound almost like it is choking a bit. Not extreme..but definitely not the smooth engine sound I had. I am guilty of NEVER HAVING MAINTENANCE on her..so I had new spark plugs put in and a new air filter. The problem is less..but the idle is still on the rough side.
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VW Rabbit 09 - Makes a loud noise coming from the back of the car, at first I suspected exhaust, but it does not get louder from hitting the gas. The noise gets louder the faster car moves starting around 20 mph. It sounds like it is running at high RPMs but the tachometer does not read over 3000 RPM. There is no check engine light on currently, in the past the light has come on after driving through puddles and then the car could not shift into the higher gears and would be stuck at 40 mph.Eventually, it would resolve itself. I have inspected the exhaust but I can not see anything that would cause the noise. The transmission does seem a little sluggish to shift, but it is a smooth shift.
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I just recently purchased a 1984 VW Rabbit convertible. I bought it knowing that the "idiot" light and buzzer for the oil sensor comes on when the engine revs at around 2100 RPMs, and won't shut off until I turn the car off. I replaced the oil sensor however it made no difference. Even when I disconnect the oil sensor unit, the buzzer still turns on!
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It's been a long time since I have posted here mainly because my truck was wearing a bow tie for awhile. But my wife was nice enough to tell me the Bow Tie wearing truck was making a funny noise on New Years Day (seems a small drum corps took up residence in the oil pan). So anyhow now I am back in a real truck . My new to me 1998 F150 5.4 Liter ran fine until yesterday. It started idling rough and almost stalling at red lights. about halfway home the CEL light came on and is throwing a P0171 code.
So far I have checked for vacuum leaks including all the elbows on the PCV system' tried the spray test with a can of flammable break fluid and a can of starting fluid (man I love the smell of that stuff) could not find a leak. Cleaned the MAF sensor and the K&N air filter (not a fan of these) IAC seems to be working. Only thing I know that is leaking for sure is the driver side exhaust after the cat. But that is the wrong bank if I am correct on which bank is which.
So why only one bank running lean and why does it act like it is only firing on 4 cylinders?
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So my 2003 VW Passat will not start. I last drove it a few days ago, and it has been sitting inside a nice warm garage. The battery was replaced a few months ago. The car doesn't "turn over" but just has a steady sound when you try to start it. It's not a clicking sound like I had 6 months ago with it. I attached a link to the audio file of me trying to start it today. There are no warning lights per se coming on only the typical ones coming up when the ignition key is turned on. The lights and interior lamps come on indicating there seems to be power but nothing else. The plugs were cleaned a few months ago as well. Could it be alternator? I could try jumping it but the sound it makes leads me to believe there is plenty of juice.
[URL] .....
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I have been using the lights on Auto. During day time, there would be times I would be waiting in the car in a parking lot for up to 30 mins and leave the car on, while I listen to radio and A/C on. I noticed the lights are exterior lights are on during this idling time. I then manually turn off the lights, but noticed I cannot turn off the Day Time running lights if the car is on. Is there a way, while the car is on to turn off all lights?
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I have a 99 VW Golf Wolsburg that I bought used a few years ago. I can't figure out what else I need to do to keep it running. I have done the following: oil changes, replaced spark plugs and wires, replaced crank shaft position sensor, replaced muffler, replaced distributor cap, ignition rotor, made repairs to coolant flange, and replaced the fuel pump wire conections. It has stalled out on me while driving and then won't start, leaving me stranded and having to be towed. Sometimes I come back to it and its just fine, and then does it again at a later time. Usually the CEL code is P0304/P0341. After another trip to the mechanic the CEL came on again with P0341.Now what?
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We purchased our 2011 Jetta SE Automatic brand new - first people to drive it - and have had virtually no problems up until this summer. The car has stalled on us dozens of times now and been to two different dealerships for service a handful of times and no one knows what the problem is. We found that the car typically stalls when we're slowing down; however, it recently stalled when we were in Park. When it stalls, the steering wheel locks up, the breaks are nearly impossible to push and everything seems to shut down except the radio. We're virtually a sitting duck for other cars.
When this happens, we're able to put the car back in park, turn it off and back on and drive fine for a while. It seems to be happening more frequently but the dealership hasn't been able to replicate the issue - there are no codes left on the computer and they've literally taken the car apart and can't find anything wrong. They've even 'driven' it for 200 miles and still, nothing. Initially we were told it was bad gas, then we were told it was an operating system update. Now they're trying to tell us that it's our driving style but multiple people in my family have driven the car with the same effect - stalling spontaneously while slowing down, stopping or trying to break.
We've also noticed skipping or slipping between gears when we're at higher speeds but I'm not sure if that's related. It almost feels like your foot falls off the accelerator or slips while you're driving but instead you're actually applying constant pressure.
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I'm starting to have this problem with my 07. I pulling my garage and the auto lights come on, I shut the car off and the lights will go off after 30 seconds...now every 15th time the lights stay on until the battery dies.....
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I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.
Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.
Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?
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The last week or so i been having problems when I go to start my car. The car wont turn over unless the battery is boosted. Seems pretty straight forward I know, DEAD BATTERY..but I have tried 2 batteries, one I know for sure is good. And again same things. Recently my interior lights stopped working. I read that is could be the courtesy control module, could this also be causing the battery to be drained? It only happens over night, when I go to school and its parked for 7-8 hours its fine, but over night it dies.
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I have a 1998 Pathfinder with around 160,000 miles on it. This week it has had some issues with stalling when I am idling. The first time it happened, I was at a stoplight and it cut out 3 times and I was able to start it back up and drive the rest of the way home (40 miles) with no problem. The next time it started stalling out I was at a stoplight and was able to put it in neutral and rev the engine and it stayed on. I have a 45 mile commute to and from work every day, and I don't want this to happen when I am on the highway going 65mph.
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