Venture :: Slow / Tilting Power Window At Driver Side
Dec 30, 2005
My 02 venture has about 52k. my driver side power window is having an issue. while closing the window, when it reaches the midway point of being closed, it tilts forward a bit, and slows to almost a stop before it finally resumes closing normally.
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When operating my driver's side window, it is very slow going up or down. I have to get it go up by pulling on it while pushing the button or else the circuit breaker will stop the motor about when it gets about half way up. Sometimes I have to push it going down also.
When it is very hot outside, and the window is in the up position, it will not go down at all (very annoying since my AC doesn't work). It just does not make any noise at all when I push the switch.
I have taken the door panel off and greased everything I could and put silicone spray on the felts in the window channels, but the problem remains.
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The driver's side power window is so slow to be put up. I think there is something wrong with the motor.
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I have a 2003 Montana (same as Venture). The driver side window will get stuck half way down and the motor will grind. You can then run it back up, but when closed it will grind again.
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The window is running very slow and almost doesn't make it to close. Is there any way I can extend the life of this window?
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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So I've been noticing some issues with my 2011 GTI with only 1800 miles. I had some weird drive by wire issues, like the motor holding its RPMs with the clutch in for excessive time, a start up and idle issue (TPS?), my passenger window is very slow (heard that this is common), and now my driver window hesitates and pauses when rolling it down... ERR!
And yes I will take it to the dealer, its just that I live 100 plus miles away.
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My passenger side power window does not work from the drivers side control, but works from the passenger control. I replaced the master switch on the driver side and it still does not work. I have checked the fuses--Side, below and under the hood and have even found inline fuses below--all were good. Could the dealer have to program my new switch? I do not have child safety locks.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Venture and the blower (Vent, AC, Heater, doesn't matter) is only blowing air out of the left or driver side of the van, nothing on the passenger side vents. There aren't 2 blower motors, are there? Is a door shut that shouldn't be? This van doesn't have dual climate control like my GM cars do. The rear controls work fine for the 2nd row passengers. Again, not tied to any blower speed or heat vs. AC. Same regardless. Nothing on the passenger side.
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The power window on the passenger front side will go down using the switch on that door, but, I have to put it up using the switch on the driver's side. What is happening?
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My drivers side power window does not work as if its getting no electricity. I bought a new regulator, plugged it in and it still does not work. I bought the 4 switch console, replaced it and still it does not work. The 3 other windows work though.
I checked the fuse, its fine. I am wondering where the electrical current could be stopped. Also, where could I get a schematic of the window pins so I can check the voltages and what each pin does?
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I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and the driver side power window has stopped working. When I press the button to lower the window, I hear a click-click-click noise for as long as I am holding the button but the window does not move at all. Fortunately, it is in the up position. I don't hear any motor noise either when I hold the button down.
Chances are it is a real easy fix. I'm not sure about this but I think this issue began right around the time I had locked my keys in the car and they stuck something down inside the door to pop the lock (I wasn't home so I didn't see what they did). I just wonder if they didn't pull a wire loose or something when they were fishing around in there.
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I just noticed I'm getting a rattle from the power window panel on the driver door when the bass kicks in with the mark levinson system.
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Driver side power window buttons area is peeling like mad! I noticed its just a plate with plastic and some cheap peel off stuff that is attached to it. Is there a aluminum or wood trip kit to add to those areas. Passenger side is not so bad. My car is otherwise looking like the day i bought it one year ago. [IMG][/IMG]
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It looks like I am going to have to replace my front driver's side power window regulator soon - it is making a bad sound when I power the window down and also the window glass seems to be loose and clunking when I close the door with the window partially or all the way down. These may be two separate issues. I think the motor itself is fine.
In looking at replacement window regulators I see two options. The lower cost option ($50-70) is to just by the regulator cable/pulley/gear assembly.
Like this: [URL]
But I also see options to buy that assembly pre-installed on the metal door plate that it attaches to: [URL]
So, my question is, once I have the door apart and the glass out, is it relatively easy to install a new cable/pulley/gear regulator assembly, or would I be better off buying a pre-installed regulator on a new metal plate?
I know how to take the door apart as I have done this before to change out the door lock/latch module.
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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So after 6 1/2 years, my original Panasonic battery died today morning. I used jump start to get to work and used the same method to take the car to Sears to replace with Diehard Platinum.
While driving back, after the battery replacement, I noticed that I couldn't use auto power window roll up or down on driver side (manual roll up/down worked). Other three windows won't even work. I checked the windows lock button and it wasn't in lock position.
I turned the ignition power off and turned on to ACC. Then I could able to roll driver side windows up/down in auto. However, other three windows remain nonoperational. I also noticed a small green light on the window is illuminated only for driver side.
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The window just stopped working. Everything was fine, then all of a sudden it quit! What could it be and how can I fix it? I checked for a fuse, everything appears ok. Its 1997 Cavalier. Its 15°F here and it would be nice to not have to drive with the window down.
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My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
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I have a 2003 GMC Sierra with 146,000 miles. Yesterday morning when I lowered the driver side window, I heard a loud pop. After which the window would not go up when I pulled on the up button. However, when I pushed the DOWN button the window went back up. This was to me a good thing. It stayed up until this morning when while trying the passenger window I accidentally touched the driver side switch It dropped a little then slowly went down about a half inch as I drove. Luckily when I pressed the down button it went back up again. I've Benn told it is the window regulator.
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I would like to replace my drivers side window. It has some deep scratches and with the windows tinted it really shows. Been looking for place to buy from but can't seem to find one.
The only one I found was on Amazon but was trying to find one cheaper or with no shipping charge.
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