My 02 venture is leaking engine oil I put out a piece of cardboard underneath and it is leaking in the center front I had an oil change 4 months ago and I checked oil today and it was dry I am assuming in 4 months the engine oil all leaked out What could be causing this I do smell a slight oil burning underneath the hood It is slight but there for sure.
View 14 RepliesI bought a 2001 Accent GL 1.6 automatic today, for a good gas millage get around car.. It runs great, no over heating or any of that type of stuff.. When I backed out from the sellers driveway to test drive, I got out to look for leakage anywhere on the driveway.. I saw nothing.. Looked fine. Drove it, then eventually bought the car.. Drove it home, all is fine.. Well my driveway is at about a 45 degree angle not flat at all..
So I pulled into the driveway.. Front end facing upward.. A while later I went out just to look around.. Noticed it leaking right in the center pretty much of engine.. Thought it was oil at first.. But it almost has that gear oil smell to it.. Hint of it anyway.. So, I thought, great.. Pulled it into the garage where it is level ground.. No leaking at all on level ground.. Pulled it back out and parked it on the driveway front end pointed down this time.. No leak.. Just leaking when facing upward on the hill..
Yesterday our 2002 Chevy Venture minivan died in the store's parking lot. It would not stay running when we started it and let off the gas. As long as we were pushing the gas pedal down, the van would run. As soon as you let off the gas, it died.
So my husband walked to the auto store and bought a new fuel filter. He then tried to replace it in the store parking lot. As soon as he took off the 'male hose' from the fuel filter, a lot of gasoline sprayed him in his face and of course he came out from under the van screaming and in pain. (Don't worry with kids we had over 8 bottles of water in the van and I flushed his face and eyes for over 10 min and he is fine now).
Anyway, in the process of flailing under the van when the gas hit his face, he jumbled up these little black and rainbow colored rings and lost a long rusty screw/bolt that screws the main round body of the fuel filter to the underneath of the car and holds it in place.
We searched and could not find the bolt. My husband jumbled up the small rubber rings and did not know what was from the old or new filter. He tried placing them on the new fuel filter but as soon as he turned on the car, not even the engine just turned the key to where you can play the radio... all this gas sprayed out from the new fuel filter. After many tries of re-arranging the little o rings he gave up and called a tow truck.
Today he called auto zone and they looked at a new fuel filter in it's box (same one my husband bought) and told my husband that there was only one small black o ring on the fuel filter. So he put one ring on his new fuel filter (on the male hose I think) but still the filter sprays gas as soon as he turns the key. He then went and bought new 'hose clips' and tried those. The fuel filter still sprayed gas.
So, what I am now trying to find out is what could possibly be causing the fuel filter to spray the gas (leak). My husband (in his words) is a welder, not a modern car mechanic and is getting really stressed over this.
1. Does he need new or different sized little rubber rings?
2. Could the missing bolt that screws the large body of the filter to the car be causing this gas leak?
3. I read he should turn off the gas some where and then replace the filter, could this cause a gad leak issue because he did not do this before replacing the fuel filter?
I picked up this 2004 Chevy Venture for my daughter and it has a power steering fluid leak coming out of the power steering cooler line that runs along the frame in front. I know that the procedure to replace this line calls for disconnecting the intermediate shaft of the steering and lowering the subframe to gain access to the line connections on the rack. My question is, is it possible to replace that line without lowering the subframe? I ordered the new line and it's on its way. I wanna do the job right.
View 3 RepliesTen days ago I had the "Camshaft Plug" and the "Oil Pressure Light Switch" replaced on my 2000 Honda CR-V 2.0L 1972CC L4 with 206,000 miles on it. Today the car (engine) is bucking and a very small amount of smoke is coming out from the front fender side of the engine at the center (as you look from left to right) from what appears to be near the cover gasket.When it started to buck only about a mile from my house I return immediately and shut it off. The temperature gauge never moved from the normal position and the car seem to buck more when it was going slower. What might be wrong? Also could the replacement of the two engine parts I mentioned have anything to do with the current problem?
View 3 RepliesLooks like my car started to leak fluid from somewhere near the front of the engine bay yesterday.
I noticed a fairly large spot under my car after work yesterday. Today I parked in a different lot and work and sure enough, there was another wet spot under the car tonight.
Seems to be near the front of the engine bay. I can see any leaks from the tip and the car runs fine so far.
Whatever is leaking out seems to be more or less clear an oily. The engine oil has about 7000 miles on it, so I would expect that to be darker.
Car is a 2010 MK6 GTI w/DSG - about 27k miles on the clock.
Some extra info: My commute to work is about 35 miles one way and i didn't see a wet spot in my garage this morning. Seems like whatever leaked out came out after my short lunch break drive yesterday and then again after lunch today - but not after the 35 mile Hwy drive home.
I have an 04 Chevy Venture. Recently it started making what I can only describe as a grinding. I have been a mechanic for over 30 years, working on everything from motorcycles to heavy construction equipment. This is a new one on me. I have checked the wheel bearings, brakes and rotors, and suspension. All good. I have blocked her up and put it in gear, and the noise seems to be coming from the transaxle. Fluid is cherry red and is not burnt, no metal shavings, and not low. I have noticed that while driving, if I jog the wheel left or right, it quite until you straighten out again. If I weave back n forth going down the road, it's pretty much non existant, but the cops are starting get suspicious.
View 6 RepliesI have a Venture with a steadily-worsening vibration problem which is always worse at the front passenger side. The vibration is not the growly rumble I remember from the bad bearings I replaced 3 years ago. It's more like the thudding feel of an out-of-balance tire, but the tires are relatively new and have been rotated and balanced since purchase and since I noticed the problem. The vibration shows mainly from 45-55 mph, but not if coasting. It's only when the engine is under load that I feel it. It occurs when the gear select is in D or 3. At any other speed it is not as bad, but if I get on the gas, the vibration becomes worse. Revving the engine in park or neutral reveals no abnormal vibration.
I jacked up the van and rotated the tires again and checked for any play in the bearings or loose mounting bolts - nothing obvious there. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine, around the inboard CV joint, a spray of thick axle/moly grease, like one would find inside a CV boot, as if the boot has a small hole in it, but the CV joint does not grind or make any typical noise on sharp turn.
My list of guesses include: motor mounts, tranny mounts, bad bearing/hub, bad half shaft/CV joint, tranny going bad, bad bearing in engine.
History/details: 2004 Venture LS long wheelbase. 160,000 miles. Goodyear Viva 2 tires. Front bearings have been replaced as a set once, driver side again since then, when the ABS sensor went bad. Sometimes when I put it into drive and turn sharply to the left, traction control turns on momentarily. The tranny has begun to slip and grab on a coast-to-stop followed by sudden acceleration.
Have an issue with the coolant bowl cracking? Just went down to fire up my R this morning and the check coolant light came on. Noticed some coolant around the center seam of the reservoir. Turns out the top nipple was separated from the bowl.
View 7 RepliesThe engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
View 15 RepliesWife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
View 2 RepliesSo I just changed the oil on my truck I had a ford motorcraft filter on there and replaced it with a Fram filter ( only because that's what was on the shelf at the big W store ) I drove it to town and back once ( 35 miles round trip ) ...
I was going to add a trickle charger to my truck as It will be sitting for a while and I was laying under the front of the truck trying to fish the power cord down and I looked back and see I had Oil spray going down the center of my truck . So I thought dam my filters not tight as when I looked at it , had oil streaks coming down it. So I checked it was tight , would not move.
So I wiped if off with a rag and it looks to me as if the filter is leaking at the top seam . were the filter is crimped . There's not way I can take it off and take it back to the store. a filter that is oil soaked . I am going to replace it but before I do I am going to see if I can get the leak on video
Just finished an 11 hour highway drive and I am getting a popping noise - like a lot of popcorn popping at once, or water boiling. It sounds like it is coming from the engine and only happens when the car is in gear and the brake is on. It does not happen when the car is moving.
I have noticed this noise before, it occurred a week ago after about 500 miles of straight driving when I stopped for gas. About 100 miles later my alternator died. Since then the alternator has been replaced and the car has been running fine on short trips. No sign of any trouble.
Temperature gauge on car does not show any overheating and there is no coolant leak. Turned off AC with no effect on noise.
My car has 200,000 miles, replaced the engine at 163,000.
My engine will occasionally lope at startup. If I look at my scanner the fuel trims will suddenly go negative up to - 20 and then the engine smooths out. It seems to happen in open loop and when in closed loop the fuel trims balance out. I changed my maf sensor, but it did nothing. I don't smell any gas, no Check engine light.
1998 Chevy Venture LS
240,000 miles
Engine replaced at 165,000
Platinum plugs replaced at 165,000
Plug wires replaced at 190,000
I turned on the car (2003 Chevy Venture) today and the "Low Engine Oil" display came on. I checked the oil (car had been parked on a flat surface overnight and engine was cold) and the oil was about 1/3 of the way up the dipstick, which is way, WAY past the full line. I let the car sit and warm up a little, checked again and the same level appeared. I am wondering what that means. After being on for a minute or so the engine oil light went off.
The check engine light has been on for about two days and when I went to check it yesterday the error code was p0171. Are the two related? Is there an easy fix for this or is this a sign of a serious problem?
I have a 1999 Venture Van. The engine has a low idle and stalls when stopped/parked after driving on the highway for 10 minutes or longer. Whenever I drive it to the train station in the morning to go to work, it dies as soon as I park it. It will start up again fine right away tho. I drive 10 minutes on the highway.
The engine light is on, but goes off sometimes for months before coming on again. I've brought it to at least 3 mechanics and they can't get the light to stay permanently off, and say to just drive as-is. But that still leaves me with the low idling problem. It doesn't always stall, but the potential is always there, as you can hear the low rpms threatening, and dread stopping at a light.
I had the engine light interpreted as P0122 TP SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW. The mechanic replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Engine light came on again 2010. Mechanic did a Computer system check/smoke test. Diagnosed a Leak in evap system so they installed a new gas cap and vent valve. 2 months later, engine light went on again.
New plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, fuel treatment, fuel line, gas cap, vent valve.
1 month later light is on again, and low idling persists. I put alot of $ into the problem with no solution. Some mechanics say the engine light has no relation to the low idling.
Wife wants me to get rid of it, but the Van is in great condition except the low idling/stalling problem. I don't care if the light stays on, as long as the low idling/stalling stops. Can't I just ask a mechanic to increase the idling rpm?
My Chevy Venture 2003 approx 120 thousand miles is idling high at times. It will drive fast. I can feel it speeding up even when I am not pushing on the gas. When I put the car in reverse it flys backward (I have to keep my foot on the break to back up at a safe speed) and then when I put the car in park the engine is VERY loud. Again, this does not happen all the time. Usually when I drive it over ten miles. I thought it might have something to do with the AC, but I played around with that (driving with and without the AC) and that did not factor in it.
I took it to my own personal mechanic and he couldn't find anything wrong with it. I then took it to a dealership and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with after doing their hundred dollars worth of diagnostics and said they needed it to actually be doing it..what they called a hard fail...for them to know what was going on. . They drove the car for quite some time and nothing happened. I drove it all this pass weekend and nothing happened. It might go a week or so without doing it. Thenn it does it. Usually I can turn the car off and restart it and it will be back to normal. The check engine light is NOT on. Any clue as to what might be going on?
I finally took my car in and the technician drove around with me. He confirmed that the noise was coming from under the dash. After some discussion with his supervisor, he came back and said it was the insulation pads which had broken down and needed replacing. He said this was due to the heat. He told me this involved taking off the dash board and was an all day (8 hour job) of about $800, but they would charge me only half, about $425. I was stunned because I have never had this happen in another car. I use window shield and keep my car in a garage most of the time. It does not sit out all day by any means. So I am looking for solutions before I go back and say that it seems this should be under warranty. I purchased the extended warranty when I bought the car new, but after reading over the packet, it does not seem to cover insulation pads in the dashboard. I love the car, but it is really annoying when we are driving around town and have a constant noise from the dash.
View 2 Replies2013 Accord Touring, automatic. I bought it brand new last January from the dealer. Two months ago, I went to parallel park and the entire car started violently jerking. It's done it several times since then and here's what I've gathered:
1) The car primarily jerks at low speeds 1-5 mph in both reverse and drive, primarily when parking but sometimes when I'm accelerating from 0 mph,
2) Applying the break stops all jerking, applying the gas again commences jerking
3) This happens typically in cold weather when the car is both cold and hot, but not every time I drive/park it
4) The AC/Heat "cycles" down/up (less air blowing) right before the jerking begins,
5) Typically my "Forward Collision Crash Problem" alert flashes on and then off for no apparent reason,but I can't necessarily correlate this
6) The RPMs do bounce a little bit (a notch or two) during the jerking,
7) Eco mode is on and off when this happens and
8) There are no error lights/warnings/beeping/etc. to indicate that there is anything wrong.
My best description of the jerking is that it comes from the front, center of the car. You know when you drive a manual and you don't give it enough gas as you shift and the car jerks? That's what this feels like.
I've brought it to the dealer twice and they can't recreate the problem, everything checks out as clean and they don't know of any service bulletins about it.
As stated in title, it stays open half way. I was thinking just converting it to none lid one since I always keep it open, and I believe the non closing one would hold more items?
View 2 RepliesI took this picture from the rear seat while leaning over the front seats. The two white arrows indicate where our front seats are rubbing the center console while we are seated. The rubbing makes a noise and will eventually leave a wear mark on the leather, the console or both. Any way to quiet the noise and to cushion the contact between the leather and the center console?
I'm looking for a product that is safe for leather that will decrease friction in this area so that the rubbing won't cause noise or leave wear marks on the leather. I'm only interested in treating the area of the seat that contacts the console so as not to change the overall appearance of the leather. Alternatively, I could treat the center console with a product that will make it more slippery.