Venture :: Cylinder 6 Misfire - While Driving On Highway SES Light Came On
Jun 26, 2011
It's a 2000 3.4 ... while i was driving on the highway the ses came on and it started running rough checked it when i got home cylinder 6 misfire came up so i did a compression test it only had 30 psi..there was a hole in a valve so i put on new heads changed the plugs and wires and a bunch of other things. put it all back together and it still does the same thing except now i have 160 psi in cylinder 6. I tried another coil, ICM, fuel injector, plug, wire and nothing changes.
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The fact :
- 136400 miles on a '03 Venture.
- Run on 5 cylinder for 1 minute after crank. After run fine on 6 cylinders.
- Engine coolant is leaking but I dont know where : there's no smell like a defective IMG.
I get a noticable "P0304: Misfire cylinder #4" with CES blinking under accelerating.
The cylinder #4 is the front middle one : the easiest to check and access. BTW i change plugs, wire and coil and still the same symptoms.
Fuel injector ?
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I have a misfire on cylinder #5 on my 03 Chevy Venture with a 3.4L, I changed the #5 Injector because the shop I took it to said that's what it was. But the same code came back for misfire cylinder #5, would a bad plug or wire cause the same code to come up.
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I have a 1999 Venture Van. The engine has a low idle and stalls when stopped/parked after driving on the highway for 10 minutes or longer. Whenever I drive it to the train station in the morning to go to work, it dies as soon as I park it. It will start up again fine right away tho. I drive 10 minutes on the highway.
The engine light is on, but goes off sometimes for months before coming on again. I've brought it to at least 3 mechanics and they can't get the light to stay permanently off, and say to just drive as-is. But that still leaves me with the low idling problem. It doesn't always stall, but the potential is always there, as you can hear the low rpms threatening, and dread stopping at a light.
I had the engine light interpreted as P0122 TP SENSOR CIRCUIT LOW. The mechanic replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Engine light came on again 2010. Mechanic did a Computer system check/smoke test. Diagnosed a Leak in evap system so they installed a new gas cap and vent valve. 2 months later, engine light went on again.
New plugs, spark wires, fuel filter, fuel treatment, fuel line, gas cap, vent valve.
1 month later light is on again, and low idling persists. I put alot of $ into the problem with no solution. Some mechanics say the engine light has no relation to the low idling.
Wife wants me to get rid of it, but the Van is in great condition except the low idling/stalling problem. I don't care if the light stays on, as long as the low idling/stalling stops. Can't I just ask a mechanic to increase the idling rpm?
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I have a 2000 f150 5.4 liter engine. I traveled about a month ago and while on the highway it started "bouncing/shuttering" really bad. I pulled off and while still in drive but completely stopped it was still bouncing but when in park it stopped. I took in into the Ford dealership and they said that cylinder 5 was misfiring and it was losing pressure fast. Then it stopped acting up completely and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Well about a week ago it started bouncing again on city roads (no highway). The check engine light came on and Orielys said it was a cylinder 5 misfire. Also, under the oil cap and in the tube where you would put the oil in has a yellow thick substance on it. I know that it is water in the oil. Also, there is a black "gunk" not far from where you would put the oil in. Could these problems be connected?
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Well I started her up and started driving her again and I got a cel! (remind you it sat all winter just got started up!) so check the cel and it says cylinder 1 misfire! ok, check spark plug gap and change # one coil to # two and two to one! everything seems fine! well get the same cel and misfire BUT this time says its cylinder 3???? so what coil packs do i change and what do i keep? the #1 and #3 were changed 18 months ago under recall! havent had any misfire since i cleared the last cel! Just change all 4? gap is at .032 on all 4 also! wires are all good and harnesses are perfect! are they just going bad or just a hickup from sitting?
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For the last few months while I'm driving on the highway my car will misfire and the check engine light comes on. Every time is the same two codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensor failure. I've replaced the easier one to get to but it still happens. A friend suggested to clean my spark plugs...
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I am having this failure in my engine that is making me crazy while I am driving. Yesterday i took my car to a shop to see what was it. my MAF was gone ( I replaced it ) and the failure still going on. The mechanic connected his computer in my car and we went for a ride. HE told me cylinder 1 misfire.
This is what i did.
-change spark-plugs position (failure still)
-change coilpack (failure still)
What can i do ?
-clean injectors
-check for any carbon in valves
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My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
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I have 62,500 on my 08 Santa Fe... never had any engine problems, but today, started the vehicle, drove 1/2 mile in town at 25 mph, turned a corner and the vehicle shuttered and lost driving power. At the same time, the check engine light came on and flashed continuously. I drove 1/2 block (around two corners in town) with the on/off studder and loss of power. I pumped the accelerator just to keep it from killing. As I stopped at the next corner and idled the vehicle regained power. I pulled over and called the dealership service department and they recommended I drive it home (blocks away) and turn the engine off, then try to restart it and if it started drive it 30 miles to dealership.
Did that, engine light came on steady and vehicle had full power. Long and short... the code was P0300 Random CYL Miss Fire Fault (random cylinder miss fire). After scanning the vehicle, test driving it and inspecting it as they do, they could not find a source of the problem or duplicate it. They cleared the code and promised that if it happened again they would credit me the $90 diagnostic fee I paid today for them to find nothing and apply it to a problem they couldn't find. They were willing to try and warranty it even though it is 2,500 over warranty if it had needed parts. Has this cylinder misfire happened to any of you? I've never had a problem like this really go away, so I'm expecting it will show up again. Also, they want to replace the timing belt (at 60K) as a preventative measure. What do you think? Can I wait till 80K?
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I'll try to break this down as best I can. I went to my mechanic this am with a check engine light. My suspicion is 02 sensors. This was confirmed as a problem area, but separate they said I had a spuratic misfire in cylinder 4. With that info, i pulled the plug to inspect (I had just installed new ngks in it and they have 18,000K on em.
I put beldon wires on about 8k ago.) plug looked to be normal, but there was definitely a puddle of oil from the valve cover leaking. Oil went into the cylinder head but I didn't really think that was an issue. Nothing abnormal jumped out at me so I reinstalled plug and checked all wire connections at both ends and called it a day.
Then I drove it. Check engine light flashing. Major performance stutters, etc. I drove it for about 20 miles and hoped it was just the oil raising hell in there and it would burn off eventually. It hasn't gone away yet. Maybe coil pack. Can the single portions of that pack be replaced, all i see them sell is the full three as a unit.
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2000 Chevy S10 pickup
Had the check engine light come on, and when I checked on the code it gave a 4th cylinder misfire. Autozone instructed me to simply replace my spark plug with a new oem plug.
I replaced the spark plug as instructed. After about an hour of driving, the check engine light goes off and I think, great! Problem solved. However, another hour of driving and the check engine light is back on again, without going away.
I headed back to autozone to get a readout, just to find that it's the same code. So I put another spark plug in. Same result - check engine light goes off after an hour, only to come back on again permanently after another hour.
Now, normally I would think, this must be the spark plug line that needs replacement,however I am sure there must be some clue in the fact that the check engine light turned off for an hour.
By the way, not sure if relevant, but I also found a lot of build up around the spark plug before I initially changed it.In fact, there was so much that I had to scrape around the plug with an awl, and blow out the crud with a compressor,just to get my socket into place without there being crud in the way.
Any clue what that check engine off/on clue might be?
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Got the flashing check engine light and loss of power for few seconds and then the light stayed still, from time to time it blinks for few secs, usually when I push the gas pedal little bit more but it stays still, flashed only twice in 2 days for seconds. I connected computer (not VAG) and it says "Cylinder 4 misfire". I have app scheduled with my mechanic this Thursday, but still need to commute to work. Is it safe to drive?
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Just finished an 11 hour highway drive and I am getting a popping noise - like a lot of popcorn popping at once, or water boiling. It sounds like it is coming from the engine and only happens when the car is in gear and the brake is on. It does not happen when the car is moving.
I have noticed this noise before, it occurred a week ago after about 500 miles of straight driving when I stopped for gas. About 100 miles later my alternator died. Since then the alternator has been replaced and the car has been running fine on short trips. No sign of any trouble.
Temperature gauge on car does not show any overheating and there is no coolant leak. Turned off AC with no effect on noise.
My car has 200,000 miles, replaced the engine at 163,000.
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Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
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I plugged in a OBD2 reader and its show misfire on Cylinder 1.
I haven't driven the car for 4 days, and when i started the engine this morning, the engine show knocking when the regular engine kicks in (rough). i will be bringing the car in tomorrow (dealer). my car is a 2011 with 16k miles, strange for this to happen so early in age.
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As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
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Honda Odyssey 2005 – 176000 miles. Cylinder 4th Misfire – check engine lightHonda has about 176000 miles. When cold – before warming up – it acts like nothing is wrong – as it gets warmer – to the middle of the temperature gauge – it misfires.And runs rough. Evaluation: Honda Dealership thinks it is a cracked Valve or needs adjustment – they have replaced a spark plug and swapped coils. Not for sure.They think if that is not the case then there could be additional problems.Question: Why does it act normal when cold ? How can we confirm if it is the valve and not cracked head?
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Anytime it rains my car has difficulty starting yet once it starts it runs rough for a while until it warms up and then runs fine. During one of these episodes the service engine soon light came on so I took it to a auto parts store that allows me to use a computer to read the codes. It indicated that there was a cyclinder misfire. I had the fuel filter replaced last summer and I also just recently cleaned the EGR valve however it has been 4 years since I had a tune-up. Why does this happen and What should I replace first? Spark plugs? Wires? Cap and rotor? Clogged fuel injector? Bad O2 sensor(s)?
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong.
2001 7.3 Limited with 232k miles Bergen County NJ.
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I have a 2005 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 it was studdering on the highway under light load, i changed the plugs and coils it worked great for a day now working worse and giving a misfire #7, so i swapped the injectors around still misfire #7.
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